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unprimed cheddite hulls

5K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  kenner 
#1 ·
where can i get cheddite unprimed hulls. thanke
 
#3 ·
If you are looking for once fired instead of new, gunbroker is a good source but you have to know what you are looking for. Cheddite hulls do not say Cheddite on them. They are stamped with other brand names such as Estate, Challenger, etc. I can give you a list of brands if needed. Your local skeet range is a good source to get them for free. I have never seen Ched hulls NEW that come without primers.

Chris
 
#8 ·
My favorite load of all loads is a 1 1/8oz load of #2s using a B&P32 wad and a CX2000 primer. I load it in once fired 2 3/4" Cheddite hulls. These hulls are diff colors and brands but are all Cheds. Here is a list of some of the ones I know about and have loaded with....
American Target (white)
Tru Tracer (clear)
Challenger (light blue or red)
Game Bore (red or white)
Centurion (dark blue)
Kent Fasteel ( silver)
Kent Trap (dark blue)
Kemen (black or pink)
Diana (red)
Estate (must have white bw)
Not knowing what you are looking for can hamper your finding good hulls. I once had a chance to get a couple thousand each of American Target and Challenger hulls. Only problem was, I did not know they were Cheds at the time so they went in the trash!
Also, I have used other hulls to load my favorite load using hulls that are not Cheddite but will work. The only adjustment I need to make using them is back off on the pellet count 5 or 6 pellets. This is because they are just slightly less volume than the Cheddite hull but work just fine.
These are....
Clever Mirage (red, dark blue and light blue) these also come in clear but I have not found any that have the right right volume)
Fiocchi Lite (light purple)
Nobel Sport (orange)
Rio (dark blue)

Chris
 
#9 ·
and Herter's; the Estates come in two flavors!!.. The silver base is a paper-base wad and not a true Cheddite; the brass-colored one, is. The Ched-Estates are the white-boxed Dove Loads.

If you have a trap/skeet/clays club, go there!! I bought hulls to begin with... Now, I have hundreds of different hulls... so many, I can't use them all. Watch for sales at your local sports stores,, and the hulls will show up at the club. If you only need a box to start with, buy a box of shells with those hulls.. shoot them at the club.. reload them.
 
#10 ·
Before the skeet range I normally go to, blew away from the May tornado. I could score big time on free hulls. Just had to go to the trouble to pick them up or go through the trash bins. Once, they gave me trash bags full from the state trap match. That was a big time score and a lot of sorting. I am still waiting for reopening of the range. Maybe by new May it will be open again. Kenny, you brought up a good point. At Gene Sears Supply, they sell Mirage trap shells by the boat load. Thus, I always find plenty at the range nearby. After reloading a few Mirage hulls, I found out they are really good hulls to load with.

Chris
 
#11 ·
honker and 10ga:... Fiocchi and Rio have different primer tolerance....

honker: !!! you REALLY have to look into the primers that will fit you hulls... and if you don't have a press, like a Sizemaster, you can't just pop on primer into any given hull.... Some will be too tight and others too loose.

From the following page, you can get an idea of primer sizes and go from there.
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Cheddite-209-Primers-1000_box/productinfo/CH209/

Good loading!... Ken
 
#13 ·
i have the tool to resize the primer holes. i use it on the cheddites. i have 2 pws single stage 375 .a 12 ga and a 10 ga. i have had these for a lot of years. have not loaded any steel in the 10 ga. very little in the 12 ga. in the 12 ga in am loading 7/8 oz 42.0 gr. ofalliant steelw/cheddite new hulls with #3 steel shot. as u know the shell remaines in the steel retainer until finished loading. the crimps come out good with no shells opening up even months later. what i do have a problem with is the finished shell is some what above the rim of the shell retainer which ends up with a flaired head. they wont cycle through my smi autos. i have a gaep bn4 coming. hope this will help.also i am weighting shot and powder. thye powder goes through a pact high speed precision powder dispenser. i am not able to adjust the pw to get it to finish out a loaded shell. every thing i am loading is right out of the book lighting steel 2 nd edition.
i live in central illinois and wish some one was close enough to help me out on this.
dont kjnow what the cost is to send thes loaders in for clean up and repairs. i see as up grade is around 80 dollads.

thanks again honker
 
#14 ·
honkerhavens4 said:
i have the tool to resize the primer holes. i use it on the cheddites. i have 2 pws single stage 375 .a 12 ga and a 10 ga. i have had these for a lot of years. have not loaded any steel in the 10 ga. very little in the 12 ga. in the 12 ga in am loading 7/8 oz 42.0 gr. ofalliant steelw/cheddite new hulls with #3 steel shot. as u know the shell remaines in the steel retainer until finished loading. the crimps come out good with no shells opening up even months later. what i do have a problem with is the finished shell is some what above the rim of the shell retainer which ends up with a flaired head. they wont cycle through my smi autos. i have a gaep bn4 coming. hope this will help.also i am weighting shot and powder. thye powder goes through a pact high speed precision powder dispenser. i am not able to adjust the pw to get it to finish out a loaded shell. every thing i am loading is right out of the book lighting steel 2 nd edition.
i live in central illinois and wish some one was close enough to help me out on this.
dont kjnow what the cost is to send thes loaders in for clean up and repairs. i see as up grade is around 80 dollads.

thanks again honker
first off if your using there 7/8 oz wad it would benefit to go to the 1oz b and p wad and use spacers or just load the ls2#6 1oz load going 1645 fps..and or load up both loads one wad just use spacers for 7/8 oz load. alot eisier to get good crimps with 1oz wad then with there 7/8 oz wad and that amount of powder.

here is link for manual for 375 press!!!
http://www.reloaders.com/index.php?main ... ucts_id=43

To put taper on the hulls with your press you need to turn the lock/jam nut down on the spring to increase the spring tension which will give you more taper in return!!! this desighn is real close to the rcbs mini grand press. they have taper die that cost around 14 bucks that would help you if you can not get the tapper set with press. you can put that taper die in drill press (no power needed, it is made for the extra station on the rcbs mini grand press ect and bring it down onto the hull and that would put taper in for you. they have them for 12 and 20 gauge.
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/RCBS-T ... o/6009016/

but if you put more tension down on the spring on final crimp staion it will put the taper on the hull and get the bell affect out of the equation and they will cycle just fine in your semi auto's. those type shotshell presses 375/rcbs mini grand, ect are harder to get good tapered hulls. but it can be done. after putting more tension down on the spring you might have to bring the crimp depth up or down also.

hope this helps you out!!!
goose
 
#17 ·
Jmorris said:
Beretta06 said:
Are kent 3" cheddite hulls? If so I've watched thousands go in the trash at our duck club and here I am buying brand new ones to test and pattern. Dam! Kent ant Remington seem to be the most readily carried shells where we are!

Dwight
Yes they are
I have personally seen enough kent hulls go in the garbage since kent started producing fast steel to never purchase a hull again. I just never considered their brand. Oh well live and learn!

Dwight
 
#18 ·
In all the years I have reloaded steel shot, I have loaded just about every make of 12ga hull I could get my hands on. The way it turned out, only in the last few years was I able to try Ched hulls. They quickly became my favorite. My best load in both 2 3/4 and 3" are based on the Ched hull. My best 3.5" load is based on a Fiocchi hull, only because I have never had any 3.5" Cheds I guess. Not that it matters, I dont hunt with 3.5 12ga anyway as I dont need them.

Chris
 
#19 ·
Chris,
How many loads do you get out of a Ched hull? I hear people bad-mouth them....

Is there a diff in the # of reloads, between the very low brass/head and the higher ones?

** p.s. Chris,, I put that part in 'bout the Fiocchi and Rios, in case others didn't know, or didn't have the sizer tools... And thank you for all your help!... You've taught me a lot, as have others on DHC!! :beer:
 
#20 ·
Kenny
I think I have enough ched hulls that I will be doing good to shoot them only once and still have plenty left over. I have always lived by my own reloading rule to use a once fired hull three times before loosing velocity. That fourth load, you will loose vels.
Once I figured out a great load for the 2 3/4" ched hulls, I couldnt stop hoarding them. I will continue to do so when they get my skeet range rebuilt after the tornado. I wont hesitate to pick up Kemen, Diana, purple Fio, orange Nobel Sport also. They are great hulls to load with too as long as you have a mec supersizer to make the primer pocket useable. From what I have seen, the primer pocket conditioners dont get the job done nearly as well.
The reloading process is the only difference between the 8mm and 16mm high brass bases. There are also some that are 20mm and 25mm also. This has nothing to do with the life of the hull. Using the 8mm base hulls, I have to use a copper ring support when doing the final crimp to eleminate bulging if loading a tight fitting load such as the HG load.

Chris
 
#21 ·
I was crushing shells, until I fiddled with the adjustments on my Sizemaster... I did the copper ring, made out of copper pipe,, but found it to be unnecessary when I adjusted the press.

I also buckled shells/Cheds with B&P wads, until I snipped the center post in the wad.
Oh,, do you just get wads a size larger than the load you intend and use spacers,, or do you fiddle with the wad and wad pressure?

(again,,, this isn't for you,, but for those who haven't learned the tricks yet)

** p.s.. for others,, there are great tutorials on YouTube!!
 
#23 ·
Loading recipes found in RSI manual, I dont have to use the copper support ring. But when using really tight fitting loads of my own concoction such as the HG load, I have to use the copper ring. I sometimes use a larger volume wad such as the B&P35 wad for a 1 1/8oz load but I trim it 1/8" shorter to do so. For a 1 1/8oz load the B&P32 is the right one for the job. I do not use spacers in any of my 12ga loads.

Chris
 
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