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10' hybrid NL with pods!!

6K views 31 replies 5 participants last post by  Duckdan4434 
#1 ·
Hey guys
Looking to build a 10' hybrid duck boat with pods this coming year. Going to be running a home made mad mud motor build 6.5 on it. Looking for any suggestions or help anyone is willing to offer. Never done a boat build before and really looking forward to it. Just ordered the plans a few days ago just waiting for them to come I'm so I can get started rounding up the supply's. also what adhesive worked the beat and what resin worked the best for the fiber glass work. Like I said I am new at this so really could use the help. I will post pics as the job goes along
Thanks
 
#10 ·
Sounds good now are talking about just extending the back the length of the pods or on both ends? I am going to be using a 6.5 long tail motor so I am going to be making sure the transom is strong as well as the bottom and all the seems of the boat due to shallow water and all that comes with that double tapeing all seems plenty thick ply wood on the bottom as well as fiber glass let me know what you think
 
#11 ·
Just move trans to back of pods. Still the same length. still gotta transport it same way. Dont forget correct angle on your transom. It will help with a little thing called reserve bouyancy. :wink: Also on joints I like to use biaxal tape,at the very minimum I use it on the transom,because its stronger. You dont really need to up rate the ply thickness but reinforcing with additional glass adds piece of mind and less weight. I build 10'6" boats with 4mm ply for everything but the bent bow section and use 3mm for that.
 
#13 ·
Also polyester vs apoxy what are the differences in strength workability and durability polyester is a lot cheaper and if I can I would rather go that route to try and cut cost but I don't know much about it. Do I have to by hardener with it or just use the kit as it comes any info is greatly appreciated
 
#14 ·
Duckdan4434 said:
Also polyester vs apoxy what are the differences in strength workability and durability polyester is a lot cheaper and if I can I would rather go that route to try and cut cost but I don't know much about it. Do I have to by hardener with it or just use the kit as it comes any info is greatly appreciated
Poly and epoxy are going to be very similar as far as workablility. Epoxy is stonger and more "water proof", the reason you will find no comercially built composite(thats what your building) boats using poly resin. Using poly your building a throw away boat, in a few years the wood will become wet and you'll throw it away in favor of something lighter, not realizing how much it gained weight. Poly is cheaper, but in the big scheme of building even a boat this size, it's a small increase in cost and the return is on the back end.
 
#15 ·
I figured poly was a bad idea but I had to ask seeing how I don't know much about either of them. I found a site that has pretty good prices on epoxy 2 to 1 1 gallon of resign and a half gallon of hardener for about 100 dollars. What thickness would you recommend for the fiberglass mat and is a woven matt better? I checked out that biaxle tape you talked about seems like a good idea so I think I am definitely going to go with that. What width tape would you recommend as well?
 
#16 ·
Dan,

The plans are going out in the morning. They have what you are asking in there.

I just started building with epoxy and don't plan on going back to polyester but we have some boats that are 6-10 years old made of poly that are going strong. The key is doing a good job on the glassing and not trying to push the envelope with cool weather.

I got your back.

M A
 
#17 ·
Lane said:
Duckdan4434 said:
Also polyester vs apoxy what are the differences in strength workability and durability polyester is a lot cheaper and if I can I would rather go that route to try and cut cost but I don't know much about it. Do I have to by hardener with it or just use the kit as it comes any info is greatly appreciated
Poly and epoxy are going to be very similar as far as workablility. Epoxy is stonger and more "water proof", the reason you will find no comercially built composite(thats what your building) boats. Using poly your building a throw away boat, in a few years the wood will become wet and you'll throw it away in favor of something lighter, not realizing how much it gained weight. Poly is cheaper, but in the big scheme of building even a boat this size, it's a small increase in cost and the return is on the back end.
Are you saying the poly isn't waterproof? That it absorbs water?
 
#18 ·
Also for a 10' boat with a motor that will weigh Bout 80 lbs me who weighs 200 lbs gear and a 70 lbs dog what size flotation kit should I get? I keep doing the math and I can't seem to get the right numbers. And when fiberglass the bottom and sides of the boat is the epoxy waterproof and how much should I apply. What I mean by that is should the glass Matt be completely saturated or not. I will be using a 6 oz cloth all seems double taped with biaxle tape. Also what should I use as a apoxy filler I.e wood flower, micro capsules etc.?
 
#19 ·
[/quote]Are you saying the poly isn't waterproof? [/quote]

Yep thats basically it...... Im also saying epoxy is not TOTALLY waterproof. But its more than a substancial difference in how much better it is. A poly wood boat will absorb water and hence gain weight at a much faster rate than a epoxy boat. poly/wood boats work for years in some climates and months in others. epoxy/wood boats last decades, both given the same care.

[/quote]That it absorbs water?[/quote]

Nope didnt say that.
 
#20 ·
[/quote]Are you saying the poly isn't waterproof? [/quote]

Yep thats basically it...... Im also saying epoxy is not TOTALLY waterproof. But its more than a substancial difference in how much better it is. A poly wood boat will absorb water and hence gain weight at a much faster rate than a epoxy boat. poly/wood boats work for years in some climates and months in others. epoxy/wood boats last decades, both given the same care.

[/quote]That it absorbs water?[/quote]

Nope didnt say that.
 
#23 ·
The 80 pound boat is going to be 1/4 inch plywod ALL the way - transom & frame included. If you got 3/8 or larger, the boat gets exponentially heavier and doesn't float any higher.

I just pushed this boat off a 9 ft high bracket - landed square on its nose from that height - oops! No damage.


That guy is 6-3 320-340 pounds adn the boat is all 1/4 inch with FG inside & out. That boat is also all of 7 years old.

Once the plans get there - read the instructions, watch the video, and then build your scaled version models. Now is not the time to rush and make a mistake.

The rumors are that poly absorbs water and epoxy doesn't. Epoxy breaks down with UV rays (sunlight) while poly doesn't. The list goes on. Both should be painted with a good quality paint and maintained. The boats should not be stored with water in them - the better you take care of them, the longer they last - epoxy and/or poly resin. At the least store it upside down on horses or blocks and repair any scratches or exposed wood.
 
#24 ·
My only concern with 1/4 inch plywood is I will be running a 6.5 long tail on it and due to where I live there are a lot of beaver damns logs rocks etc. I don't want to run over something and blow out the bottom but I guess if one can fall from almost 10' and not break then it should be pretty good. Any recommendations on paint I should be using I was thinking about going with paint with epoxy in the paint I saw some on a web site called epoxy5050.com
 
#25 ·
1/4 is plenty strong, I use 3/16 lightweight marine ply (bottom, sides, frames and transom) and jump plenty of beaver dams. On my first build, I used 1/4 acx bottom and sides 1/2 cdx frames and I was nervous that it would be to fragile, But learned very fast that once glass and resin was on it not only was plenty strong but was 40 lbs. heavier than my goal of 60lbs. The goal when building a small boat meant to be portable shoud be ..... to keep it portable. Over building will only make it less likely to be your go to rig. I tested 1" blue dow board laminated with epoxy and glass, the same as the lamination schedual for the boat. (I have not seen plans from MA, or what he recomends for glass cloth but I'm pretty sure its so close to what I do to be the same.) After several good wacks from a 5lbs sledge I was convinced I didnt need to worry about punching holes in 1/4 ply.
 
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