Painting Decoys

Duck Hunting for puddlers like Mallards, Sprig (Pintails), Black ducks, Widgeons, Woodducks, Teal, and other ducks.

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Painting Decoys

Postby crankerup » Wed Oct 27, 2004 5:53 pm

I have several mallard hen decoys, Has anyone ever painted some darker than there original color, so ducks can see them from a distance if so what did you use. :help: Thanks.
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Postby Rowdy » Wed Oct 27, 2004 7:09 pm

i have a bunch of redhead xps mallards that i'm repainting as blackducks. i use acrilics, goldens and Jo sonjas..
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Postby Cobra » Sat Oct 30, 2004 9:41 am

I paint all my decoys darker than the originals, most often new right out of the box. Learned it from an old timer I knew a long time ago. They look more real, subtle and more visible. Other tips he told me were never use white, even flat white is to bright in the sun. Instead use a very pale cream or gray. No black either, go with a nearly black version of brown or gray. Only put the speculums on a third of the blocks at most. Most factory decoys look more like the spring mating version as opposed to what fly by in the fall. Works for me.
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Postby donell67 » Sat Oct 30, 2004 12:46 pm

the decoys look pretty dark from a distance anyway.
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Postby quackkiller » Sat Oct 30, 2004 4:15 pm

I've got some Redhead xps that I got a few years back, I wish I never had, the paint sucks. anyway, I'm bored so I thought, I'll just sand the paint off and paint them myself. Is there any kind of coat I can put over the paint once I'm done that will keep it from chipping? I've never really done this before and not sure what do do.
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Postby donell67 » Sat Oct 30, 2004 6:42 pm

krylon matte finish 1311. works pretty good.
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Postby Cobra » Sat Oct 30, 2004 8:10 pm

Washing completly then priming with Kilz II seems to work well, don't like clear top coats. If you repaint with any of the latex types you may have a problem. It dries to a touch fairly quickly but takes a few weeks to really cure out. Stuff can start peeling off at the water line if not cured and in ice will do it even worse. Do most of my painting no later than mid-August for an early October start. Like the Cabela's/Herter's paints as a starting base then mix from there. One tip I learned the hard way is not to do it under a flourescent light without first checking the color outside. Had to re-do 8 dz Bluebill bills that were way off in the sunlight last year.
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Postby DUKHTR » Wed Nov 17, 2004 8:48 am

I agree with cobra.....for the few plastics I still have I have completely re-painted......the realism is somewhat shakey on almost all commercial decoys....anyhow, scrape/wash/rub down with acetone/use plastic gloves or do not touch the decoy/prime with Rustoleum plastic/paint with exterior latex and acrylics

great advice on doing this in the summer so the paints will cure completely!!!!!

There is a super tutorial tape from TakeEm called Tailor Painted.....their advice and guidance is excellent.....they even provide you with the paint color numbers/names for a number of local sources such as HomeDepot.

For the bills and other small areas of detail I use acrylics. Dob the eyes with clear nail polish to get a shine.
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Postby 10 ga. » Mon Dec 06, 2004 8:33 pm

I buy new decoys every year just because I dont have time to paint mine it seems like every time I try to its 2 days before the season and of course I always wind up with undried paint on every thing .so I sell my old decoys on ebay and usually get enough out of them to buy new ones.
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