stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

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stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby alpenablackdog » Sun Feb 13, 2011 9:37 pm

Just wondering if any one has any information on how to remove the stock from a Remington model 1100 and also information about servicing the recoil spring and tube contained in the stock
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby ajmorell » Mon Feb 14, 2011 1:29 pm

Remove the two screws holding the butt plate on. You should see what looks like a big nut with a slot in it. Use a big flat screw driver to get that off, it can take some serious elbow grease if it hasn't been off recently. The stock should slide off once that is removed. From there you should be able to tell how the recoil spring comes out, it's fairly straightforward. I would just replace the spring since it's cheap. Wolff makes a good one for like $12.
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby alpenablackdog » Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:39 pm

Andy, Thanks for the great advise came apart just as you said. Tube and spring were a little dirty, cleaned them with action cleaner then wiped them down with a lite coat of gun lubricant. smooth as silk Thanks again alpenablackdog
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby lbhatty » Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:23 am

When you have your stock off, I recomend replacing the action spring and other parts with the stainless kit available from Cabelas and others. Although I have several shotguns ( beretta, benelli, stoger, browning,mossberg, winchester,etc.) nothing is more reliable in cold weather than the Remington 11-87 and1100 series. I have a small farm in Saskatchewan where I spend about a month each year waterfowling. We have shot the remingtons for years with only minor problems. I attribute the reliability under adverse hunting conditions to replacing the action spring and magazine spring with stainless aftermarket parts.
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby REM1100 » Sat Feb 19, 2011 1:51 am

I slotted screw can be a real bitch to loosen even with a big screwdriver solution get the socket with the big slotted srewdriver and put on a extension and use the rachet wrench to take it off The spring is only $10 and is sometimes tricky to get the pin in to hold the spring in place
on the X in Saskatchewan
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby DSU3 » Thu Oct 11, 2012 9:30 pm

Hey folks, I just bought a used 1100, my first autoloader. It's chambered for 3" mags but I was told I could adjust the recoil spring for 2 3/4" loads. Is this possible or do I need to get a recoil system for the lighter loads? And I assume that I can't use the 3" mags without switching back, is this correct?
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby ajmorell » Fri Oct 12, 2012 8:02 am

The barrel porting is really what will determine how well an 1100 will cycle. The recoil springs are the same as far as I know between the magnum and non magnum guns. The magnum guns only have 1 gas port on the barrel though and the non magnum have 2.
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby War Wagon » Fri Oct 12, 2012 6:02 pm

This is what I use for removal of the nut in a Rem1100-1187 shotgun, 11/16" Speed Bore Bit
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gun repair 001.JPG
11/16" Speed Bore Bit
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby DSU3 » Mon Oct 15, 2012 6:45 am

Thanks for the info, Andy. Noone I've spoken to so far has mentioned the gas port. I've talked to guys at the clay range, they replaced a gasket, and a couple gun shops so I don't feel so bad not having known...lol! Do you know if adding another port is possible?

Thanks!
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby flyndutchman » Mon Oct 15, 2012 11:49 pm

You can add an additional port to the 1100 3" barrel right next to the existing one. If you do it should shoot 2 3/4" loads easily. It will produce too much gas when shooting 3" loads and provide too much force on the action. You can tap the additional port to take a set screw when shooting 3" loads. The action bars and sleeve are supposed to be heavier on the 3" mag gun.
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby ajmorell » Wed Oct 17, 2012 11:57 am

flyndutchman wrote:You can add an additional port to the 1100 3" barrel right next to the existing one. If you do it should shoot 2 3/4" loads easily. It will produce too much gas when shooting 3" loads and provide too much force on the action. You can tap the additional port to take a set screw when shooting 3" loads. The action bars and sleeve are supposed to be heavier on the 3" mag gun.


Good post. For my 1100 I have multiple barrels. A magnum 3" chambered barrel with a single gas port I use for duck hunting, a 28" fixed full choke trap barrel with 2 gas ports, and a 24" skeet barrel with 2 gas ports. I don't notice much difference in the way the gun handles with the 26 v the 28 v the 24 so when I am practicing with light target loads I use the skeet or trap barrel, never had an issue with cycling.
Andy
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby oldbutnew » Thu Oct 25, 2012 1:48 pm

Clean the shotgun completely and try shooting 2 3/4" 3Dram 1200 fps 1 1/8oz Target Loads, it should cycle them fine. That is what I shoot for sporting clays in my 3" 1100.

Cheap Federals, Rios, and Remington all cycle fine, cheap Winchesters can be iffy in a dirty gun. I usually shoot 200-300 rounds between cleaning the gas system, it only takes a few minutes.

I clean the trigger group once a year.

If none of those work, Rio loads both 1250fps and 1300fps 1 1/8oz loads that will definitely cycle.
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Re: stock removal and recoil spring cleaning on 1100 rem

Postby oldbutnew » Thu Oct 25, 2012 1:52 pm

Also make sure the gas ring aren't on backwards. Its pretty common on a used gun and it will cause target shells I mentioned above not to cycle.

Look on the Remington Website for a manual and diagram for the correct ring positioning.
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