Removing Gym Floor Finish.......

A shotgun forum for basic gun smithing, repair, modifications, and all other detailed shotgun information.

Moderator: waterfowlhunter

Removing Gym Floor Finish.......

Postby 16gaParkerGun » Sat Feb 11, 2012 4:15 pm

Anyone know how to safely remove the top coat of gym floor finish on Charles Daly/Citori type guns?

Posts: 193
Joined: Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:13 pm

Remove Advertisements

Re: Removing Gym Floor Finish.......

Postby Darryle » Sat Feb 11, 2012 4:20 pm

Used this on a Light 12 Browning, stripped it and had it redone in an oil finish:

Wonko’s Brew


Get a disposable aluminum roaster pan at the supermarket that is large enough for the stock and forend.

Stop by your Home Depot or whatever and get a gallon of acetone and a gallon of alcohol. If the stock has a plastic finish you might want a can of some paste stripper too. Use that first if the outside finish requires it. If the stock has a varnish or oil finish the acetone will lift that with no problem.

Then toss the stock in the roaster and pour in the acetone (it will also neutralize the paste stripper). Cover the wood until it floats. Then pull off a good length of aluminum foil and make a cover for the "tank", sealing it as well as possible.

Be aware that acetone is highly volatile and smoking the cigar over the top of it is not recommended. I let the things soak for several days, turning the wood over a couple times a day.

When you feel like you're tired of that, and the acetone looks like it has quit changing color, pour the acetone back in the can, rinse the roaster out with alcohol, and then soak the stock in the alcohol just like you did in the acetone.

When you yank the baby out of the alcohol bath it will be CLEAN! And you can seal it and refinish it anyway you want after you let it dry a couple days.


I skip the paste strippers unless there is a 2 part epoxy finish on the wood like the late model Citori.

Each day or so I open the tin to turn the wood, at that time I use a soft bronze bristle brush to lightly scrub out the checkering and inletting at the stock head. I feel it helps to break up the crust where oil has soaked into the wood and glazed over. Be careful with the brush as you don’t want to mark up the wood or knock the sharp edges of the wood around the inletting.

When your ready to pull it out slosh it around so it is wet all over then remove it and immediately wipe it down with paper towels, as the acetone flashes off it will leave oils etc behind and they stain the wood like water marks. Wiping while still wet prevents this.

Let it dry over night, if there are still dark spots where oil stains are evident, set the stock under a 100 watt bulb or on a sunny window sill and see if you can drive any oil to the surface. If you do then repeat the soak over night, keep repeatedly till it stops weeping 3 in1 all over the place.

Several short soaks with long warm spells to dry drive the oil out faster than a few long soaks.

I have been skipping the alcohol soaks except with wood that was finished with french polish which is not soluable in acetone.

The alcohol soaks make the wood swell, sometimes a lot. If I do the alcohol soak I dry the stock for 10 days minimum before I touch it with sandpaper, more if it is still swollen. It will have swollen and if you try to fit it to the metal before it shrinks back you may split it. And if you work on the wood before it is done shrinking you may find the metal proud of the wood once it has settled down…that is bad. In the meantime, while it is drying you can touch up the checkering if need be. When all that is done your ready to sand, de-whisker etc.
User avatar
Posts: 2340
Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2005 10:39 am
Location: Ft. Worth, Texas

Return to Shotgun Repair & Modifications Forum

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests