870 bead removal?

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870 bead removal?

Postby clampdaddy » Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:03 pm

Years ago I broke the bead off on my 870 and I can't get the shank out of the rib because it spins when I put a drill to it. Any ideas?
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby 2500hdon37s » Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:12 pm

well the pull straight out, so maybe you'll have to super glue it in and then drill or just go with out.
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby dakotashooter2 » Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:14 pm

You might have to peen it to tighten up in the hole then try drill it out.
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby blackrhino » Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:58 pm

Install one of the magnetic fiber optic sights and be done.
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby clampdaddy » Mon Feb 20, 2012 10:40 pm

I think I might try a little heat to draw some red loctite down around the shank, let it harden, and then try drilling again. I'd really like to try some solder but I'm afraid the amount of heat I would need to make the solder bond would end up loosening the bond between the rib and the barrel.
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby Yuchi1 » Mon Feb 20, 2012 11:09 pm

Don't know if there's one made for a hole that small but there's a tool known as an Easy Out my gunsmith has used to extract stuff that's stuck in a similar fashion.
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby vertical_edge_800 » Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:10 am

Try tapping a blade into it (lightly) to deform what's left, then drill..
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby ohio mike » Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:12 am

Very small prick punch should do it.
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby tripleb » Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:32 am

Since those are normally staked in place, once they start to spin when your trying to drill them out, you've got problems, whether you use a drill bit or an easy out. Since there are no threads, they won't turn out, they just spin. I'd first try some thin superglue to hold the remainder of the bead shank in place. Let it set up a couple of hours. Drill with a drill bit a little under the size of the bead shank, going very slowly, and stopping often, so as to not heat up the glue and break adhesion. Use a dental pick to pick out the parts which remain. It's aluminum, so it ought to be easy to remove by wedging the tip of the pick between the hole in the rib and the remainder of the bead shank.
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby clampdaddy » Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:14 pm

The super glue trick worked. At first I tried applying glue and letting it dry before drilling but the glue wouldn't migrate down the sides of the shank so I applied the glue and started drilling while it was still wet. The shank spun in the hole for a few seconds then the heat must have caused the glue to rapidly set up because it locked up like a hot piston in an oil starved cylinder and the drill sliced through the shank like a hot knife through butter. :thumbsup:
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby aunt betty » Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:39 am

There's a product that makes super-glue get hard instantly. It's called "Kicker" which is slang but if you go to a to a hobby shop that sells radio controlled cars and airplanes you will be able to get all kinds of super-glue products...
They have EXTRA THICK, THICK, THIN, and NORMAL super glue and the kicker.

Super glue (cyanoacrylate): Was invented by the U.S. Army for field medics. It was designed to glue skin. It's used to glue wounds shut so a soldier doesn't bleed out before he gets to a M.A.S.H. unit.
That's why it works so good on gluing your fingers together. :yes:
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Re: 870 bead removal?

Postby vertical_edge_800 » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:29 pm

interesting superglue trick- putting that one in the "toolbox" for sure!
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