Finally got some time to get the cerakoting done. I used Cerakote C Series Air Cure Armor Black C-146Q 4 ounce tester. Anyone can do this and is fairly simple. Took about five hours from disassembling, cleaning, prepping and spraying three coats twenty-four hours apart. I have a few miscellaneous parts to coat next week and will then be reassembling. Total Cerakote was less 1 1/4 ounce used on the entire gun plus parts. The Cerakote goes a long way. I am saving the rest to do SBE2 parts and will move onto my Glocks.
1. Dissemble
2. Clean. The Stoeger barrel was rusting, which is why I elected to do the Cerakoting. Per Cerakote's training manual, each part needs to be soaked in Acetone type solution for at least 15 minutes. I soaked for 30 minutes. I used a Rubbermaid under bed storage container to soak everything at once and took about a gallon and a half (I saved all the excess Acetone and replaced it in its containers). I used a brass wire brush to clean any remaining grime, rust or dirt off the gun. The brass brush started the process of removing the factory coatings. Then, I immediately started to sanding.
3. Prep. Wear latex gloves! Sanding debris will be every where on your hands and arms. I used two different sandpapers and sanded by hand. For any metal I used 150 grit and for the synthetic stock and forearm I used 400 grit. The 150 grit was leaving trace marks on the synthetics and the Cerakote wasn't filling them as it did on the metal. I taped everything off that I didn't wan't sprayed with regular blue painters tape.
4. Apply. Get a oil/water separator. I had a airbrush laying around that I used with a compressor. Applied about 6" away from the product and applied in light coats. The heavier the coat the wetter the Cerakote finished. I had some wet looking spots on the receiver after fully drying for twenty-four hours and ended up leaving it since this is a backup shotgun. The barrel turned out perfect and nice even coats.
If there is anything you take away from this, apply the Cerakote in a well ventilated area and use paint spray respirator. The Cerakote overspray and excess is extremely heavy. I sprayed my charging handle without the mask on and after two sprays my lungs were burning for the entire night.
Any questions feel free to ask.
1. Dissemble
2. Clean. The Stoeger barrel was rusting, which is why I elected to do the Cerakoting. Per Cerakote's training manual, each part needs to be soaked in Acetone type solution for at least 15 minutes. I soaked for 30 minutes. I used a Rubbermaid under bed storage container to soak everything at once and took about a gallon and a half (I saved all the excess Acetone and replaced it in its containers). I used a brass wire brush to clean any remaining grime, rust or dirt off the gun. The brass brush started the process of removing the factory coatings. Then, I immediately started to sanding.
3. Prep. Wear latex gloves! Sanding debris will be every where on your hands and arms. I used two different sandpapers and sanded by hand. For any metal I used 150 grit and for the synthetic stock and forearm I used 400 grit. The 150 grit was leaving trace marks on the synthetics and the Cerakote wasn't filling them as it did on the metal. I taped everything off that I didn't wan't sprayed with regular blue painters tape.
4. Apply. Get a oil/water separator. I had a airbrush laying around that I used with a compressor. Applied about 6" away from the product and applied in light coats. The heavier the coat the wetter the Cerakote finished. I had some wet looking spots on the receiver after fully drying for twenty-four hours and ended up leaving it since this is a backup shotgun. The barrel turned out perfect and nice even coats.
If there is anything you take away from this, apply the Cerakote in a well ventilated area and use paint spray respirator. The Cerakote overspray and excess is extremely heavy. I sprayed my charging handle without the mask on and after two sprays my lungs were burning for the entire night.
Any questions feel free to ask.