Refinishing the stock and forearm?

A shotgun forum for basic gun smithing, repair, modifications, and all other detailed shotgun information.

Moderators: waterfowlhunter, don taylor

Refinishing the stock and forearm?

Postby Weedwacker » Sun Dec 21, 2008 5:21 pm

What is the best "wood stripper" to use to remove the old finish from my wooden stock and forearm?

Is there one that I could use INDOORS with limited ventilation, like a water based stripper?

Much thanks, Happy Holidays.
It's not just a duck boat, it is a tatical platform for opportunity- weedwacker 101

Preserve game and hunt with a trained dog- NAVHDA

"In looking back thru his posts over there he kind of thinks of himself as the zen of all things fowl."
User avatar
Weedwacker
hunter
 
Posts: 1075
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:48 am
Location: Naperville,IL


Postby waterfowlhunter » Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:04 am

FIRST, DO NOT USE ANY STRIPPER INDOORS. some say that they are environmentaly friendly but are still for outdoor use. they all cause a chemical reaction with the finish and can be toxic.

I could be wrong but have never seen one that says it is safe for indoor use, if you finde one I would be very interested in how well it works


as for strippers, you have to read them good, some will lift the grain of the wood and ruin your stock, some will not take off oil based stains and some will not remove the clear hard top coats. I use an aircraft stripper from LOWES that works good and does not lift the grain of the wood. you will need a stiff brush to clean out the checkering and I use a plastic "bondo applicator" to scrape off the finish, it is plastic and will contour to the shape of the stock. the finish remover can melt the scrapper so you will need a few of them to do a stock. or use a steel scrapper but try not to gouge the wood. The forend is a real joy to get it completely stripped.

you can put a LOT of hours into refinishing a stock and forend properly.
"A free people ought to be armed" George Washington 1790

‘For those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither Liberty nor safety.’ —Ben Franklin.”
User avatar
waterfowlhunter
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 3710
Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2004 4:53 am
Location: Linden, MI

Postby Weedwacker » Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:40 am

Much thanks and good thoughts and comments.

Yes, wanted a winter project to do while it is ZERO outside!!!

But I had a thought the fumes might be to much so have marked all the parts and put them on the shelf untill I can get it outside.

Happy Holiday.
It's not just a duck boat, it is a tatical platform for opportunity- weedwacker 101

Preserve game and hunt with a trained dog- NAVHDA

"In looking back thru his posts over there he kind of thinks of himself as the zen of all things fowl."
User avatar
Weedwacker
hunter
 
Posts: 1075
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:48 am
Location: Naperville,IL

Postby don taylor » Tue Dec 23, 2008 11:56 pm

I use BIX indoors and run a fan while I do it. Then when i'm finished with the stripper I open the garage door and evacuate the air. Follow the directions and it works great. My favorite off season hobby is restoration. I just finished the 6th hand rubbed coat of linseed on a old .22 I'm restoring as a Christmas gift.
BIGGER WATER DECOYS

Chairman- The Allegheny Chapter of Delta Waterfowl.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/4277478 ... 6859634909
User avatar
don taylor
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 7534
Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 7:38 pm
Location: Westmoreland County, Pa.

Postby waterfowlhunter » Wed Dec 24, 2008 8:15 am

I was sitting in the Dr's office yesterday reading "old house journal" and came across a product from ABR @ www.abrp.com .

They claim that their stripper paste will remove any finish in one application and is reusable :huh: . They have an introductory offer on a quart for $15 includes shipping. I am going to order a quart and see how it works.

I have stripped gun furnature in my basement with a fan blowing the fumes out the shop window but It still gets a little in the house and the wife does not like the smell.

I have also used the stripper in a spray can, Makes it easy to apply.
"A free people ought to be armed" George Washington 1790

‘For those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither Liberty nor safety.’ —Ben Franklin.”
User avatar
waterfowlhunter
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 3710
Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2004 4:53 am
Location: Linden, MI

Postby Ned S » Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:46 am

Finnish your wood with Tung oil or Tung oil varnish. Put 7 coats on rubbing out with 0000 steel wool between coats. Tung Oil is much more water resistant than Linseed oil such as Tru Oil. Ned S
Ned Swygard
Ned S
hunter
 
Posts: 8760
Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2005 10:16 pm
Location: Amarillo, Tx

Postby don taylor » Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:11 pm

Formby's makes a great tung oil. Buy the low gloss for waterfowl guns.

BIX is also reuseable. You strain out the chunks and pour it right back in the can. I have the same can my father had when he passed away in 1988. I can't use the stuff up.
BIGGER WATER DECOYS

Chairman- The Allegheny Chapter of Delta Waterfowl.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/4277478 ... 6859634909
User avatar
don taylor
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 7534
Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 7:38 pm
Location: Westmoreland County, Pa.

Postby don taylor » Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:15 pm

The other awesome thing about BIX is its deactivated by water. Put it on, scrape/brush of the finish and rinse off the residue. Done.
BIGGER WATER DECOYS

Chairman- The Allegheny Chapter of Delta Waterfowl.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/4277478 ... 6859634909
User avatar
don taylor
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 7534
Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 7:38 pm
Location: Westmoreland County, Pa.

Postby Weedwacker » Fri Dec 26, 2008 7:31 am

Don, sorry if I sound dumb, what is BIX? Is that a brand name?

Thanks.
It's not just a duck boat, it is a tatical platform for opportunity- weedwacker 101

Preserve game and hunt with a trained dog- NAVHDA

"In looking back thru his posts over there he kind of thinks of himself as the zen of all things fowl."
User avatar
Weedwacker
hunter
 
Posts: 1075
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:48 am
Location: Naperville,IL

Postby BADDUCK » Fri Dec 26, 2008 10:27 am

It's a brand of stipper. I got 44,000 hits in Google if you want to research.
ARE YOU GONNA PULL THOSE PISTOLS OR WHISTLE DIXIE?
BADDUCK
Membership Temporarily Suspended
 
Posts: 806
Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 2:36 pm
Location: Maumelle, Arkansas

Postby bluewing77 » Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:08 am

don taylor wrote:Formby's makes a great tung oil. Buy the low gloss for waterfowl guns..


+1.
User avatar
bluewing77
hunter
 
Posts: 1101
Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:44 pm
Location: elev. 6820, central NM

Postby Weedwacker » Sun Dec 28, 2008 12:39 pm

And what are your thoughts of the Birchwood CASEY brand finish kit?

If I use Tung Oil as suggested, is there a process to apply besides the steel wool in between the 7 coats? Or is it just apply, wipe, let dry and steel wool, in between the coats.

The Casey finish kit has several steps.

Much thanks as I have completed stripping and sanding.
It's not just a duck boat, it is a tatical platform for opportunity- weedwacker 101

Preserve game and hunt with a trained dog- NAVHDA

"In looking back thru his posts over there he kind of thinks of himself as the zen of all things fowl."
User avatar
Weedwacker
hunter
 
Posts: 1075
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:48 am
Location: Naperville,IL

Postby BADDUCK » Sun Dec 28, 2008 4:32 pm

I have used Tru-oil for years. The kit is easy to use if you have never done it. I have also used Tung oil. Their is nothing magic about 7 coats, that is just an opinion. Follow the directions on the can. You must control dust and humidity with either finish and let each coat dry completely.
ARE YOU GONNA PULL THOSE PISTOLS OR WHISTLE DIXIE?
BADDUCK
Membership Temporarily Suspended
 
Posts: 806
Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 2:36 pm
Location: Maumelle, Arkansas

Indoor Stripper and Tung Oil

Postby John Singer » Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:18 pm

I have refinished 12 guns in this past year. I strip the old finish with "Zinsser-Orange Action Stripper" It is rated as safe for indoor use and has a pleasant citrus odor.

I apply the stripper in several coats and then scrape the finish with a paint scraper blade. I use a nylon bristle brush to remove the finish from checkering. Work one side of a stock at a time. After most of the finish is removed, I wash the stock with warm water and laundry detergent to remove the excess stripper. Any unstripped spots will appear shiny and can be worked with the scraper or sand paper.

Stocks with a hard epoxy finish are expecially difficult, require a lot of elbow grease and may take a couple of days to strip.

As far as refinishing, I agree with Ned's post about Formby's Tung Oil. I have used both Tru-Oil and Formby's Tung Oil. I prefer the Formby's and use the low luster stuff. Let each coat dry thoroughly and use steel wool or a Scotch Brite pad between coats. Be careful with steel wool. It can leave small pieces of steel that end up in the finish.

The number of coats is up to you. I usually apply 12 coats to a shotgun stock and 15 on a rifle stock.

Formby's Tung Oil, when applied in this manner makes a very tough finish. Also it is very easy to touch up after a scratch.
John Singer
John Singer
hunter
 
Posts: 297
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2007 10:16 am
Location: Michigan


Return to Shotgun Repair & Modifications Forum

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests