Duckdon wrote:Get someone else to do the shooting, you do the training in the hunting field. Put up the gun.
Duckdon wrote:Sorry, forgot to mention it is real important to handle your dog until he is managable. Get someone else to do the shooting, you do the training in the hunting field. Put up the gun. Don
CatSquirrel wrote:Denial of a retrieve can be a hard lesson for a driven dog.
Rick Hall wrote:CatSquirrel wrote:Denial of a retrieve can be a hard lesson for a driven dog.
In my experience, that's huge. A dog that's apt to continue breaking and take his whoopin' as long as he's still getting his retrieve will likely shape up nicely when breaking starts costing him those retrieves.
CatSquirrel wrote:A dog will tell you what's on his mind by his body language while marks are going down.
Our training group insists on zero shuffling/leaning/etc.
At first, I would approach this problem in training by having a bird boy quack on a duck call, shoot a primer pistol and then throw a big white bumper on very short grass at about 75 yards. If he moves, tap him with a heeling stick and say "sit". Then have the bird boy pick up the bumper. He does not get a retrieve unless he's rock solid. If he breaks, the bird boy has time to run out and grab the bumper before the dog gets there.
Denial of a retrieve can be a hard lesson for a driven dog.
As his steadiness improves, you can add in dead birds using the same techniques.
If all goes well...the final test is to use a hooded mallard with quacks and real gunshots. Maintain your line standards! No movement!
What you're doing is gradually instilling steadiness in a non-exciting environment (with the bumpers) then gradually building up the excitement by moving on to birds and then live birds. However, you've already established the standard of no movement with the earlier drills.
I'm not a huge e-collar fan for line work. (I am a strong proponent of e-collars, just not for line work) However, once the standard has been established, and the dog has been taught "no forward movement" you can roll him with a high burn for a break (no! Here!)
Another trick is to teach a reverse heel. You will have to use an e-collar for this. A reverse heel is to let the mark(s) go down and to step backwards a few steps with a heel command while nicking/burning the dog back to a heel position. Be careful with this! But, it does tend to make a dog more aware of his position relative to the handler.
I would suggest you can the Stewart and WaterDog programs and take a look at a Rex Carr based program like Mike Lardy or Evan Graham's programs. I prefer Lardy, but lots of people like Evan's program.
Anyway....just some thoughts. YMMV
colton341 wrote:Bang him on the collar as soon as he breaks. All it takes is a couple of times and the dog will know not to break.
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