Potty training

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Potty training

Postby mr.green » Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:56 am

I know this has probably been discussed but I couldn't find the answers I was looking for.
I have a 9 week old Chessie. We crate her at night and when we leave. We take her out when she comes out of the crate, after she eats, before she goes in the crate and after we give her water. When we go out we pick her up, carry her to same door, clip leash on while still holding her and say potty a few times. We walk outside and put her down (she's only seen snow as we have had a lot this winter) and say go potty. She seems to understand as we go to the sand spot each time.
She will squat In the house and pee at really random times like an hour after we take her out even though she hasn't had water. She will also pee in her crate (which is big enough for her to stretch out and sit in) at night, 2 hours after we last took her out. She gives no warning but will cry after. Needless to say I sleep very light now.
My question is how do I get her to let me know she has to go out? Weather in the crate or during the day? I try to regulate and watch her but she will still have accidents. I also understand she is just a pup but I'm not sure if or when these accidents will stop? Any suggestions are appreciated!Image


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Re: Potty training

Postby uglymug » Thu Feb 20, 2014 9:12 am

Two hours is about as long as they can hold it at that age. Their bladder isn't fully developed yet.
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Re: Potty training

Postby copterdoc » Thu Feb 20, 2014 9:22 am

mr.green wrote:...My question is how do I get her to let me know she has to go out?
That's the wrong question.

You don't want her telling you when to let her out.
You want to know when she has to go out, and then you tell HER when to go out.

That seems like an insignificant distinction, but it's huge.

Don't let her control you. You need to control her.

The tools that you use to do that include the crate, your watch and alarm clock, and her distaste for her waste products.
If she has accidentally been conditioned to disregard her waste, you have a big problem.
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Re: Potty training

Postby brsutton86 » Thu Feb 20, 2014 6:14 pm

First few weeks at my house every hour, on the hour out we went. Always to the back door on the lead. Everynight set the alarm and got up 3 times a night at first then to 2 pretty quickly. After about 2 weeks mine would go to the door, everytime shot had to potty. But, I had to let her out at night once or twice for a couple months. She only had one accident during the day after about 2 weeks.
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Re: Potty training

Postby KJV » Thu Feb 20, 2014 6:37 pm

I have a pup from the same litter. I am getting about 3 hrs at night from her. Her last water is about 6 PM. She goes in her crate at 9. Same as you do, she goes out before going in crate. I religiously set my alarm and get up, take her from crate outside to same spot. She always urinates, praise and praise and praise!!! During the day I am gone for 10 hrs. I have an indoor 10x6 kennel that is in the basement. This is her home during the day. Her crate and chew toys as well as water are available to her. I usually come home to a pee, but never a poop. Abby has never gone potty in her crate only the kennel. She only had two mistakes in the house, one of each variety. Both were laziness on my part. If you develop a schedule she will comply. Good luck!
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Re: Potty training

Postby buckmeister » Thu Feb 20, 2014 9:24 pm

I too set my alarm and would train the pup to use my dog door and then praise them outside. But since their bladder is weak at that age I would not feed them kibble because it makes them drink twice the water as canned or fresh food would. Especially I would not feed dry food if they are going to be in a kennel for 10 hours as a puppy.
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Re: Potty training

Postby Dakota Creek » Fri Feb 21, 2014 7:12 am

buckmeister wrote:But since their bladder is weak at that age I would not feed them kibble because it makes them drink twice the water as canned or fresh food would. Especially I would not feed dry food if they are going to be in a kennel for 10 hours as a puppy.


?? So thousands of successful breeders are wrong when they wean their puppies onto dry food? (And no one should be leaving a pup in a kennel for 10 hours ... I don't believe the OP stated that)

As to the timing ... Every 2 to 3 hours during the day or overnight. A soon as they wake up, as soon as they finish eating or drinking, as soon as they finish playing and if they are out of the crate with you and they just start to wander like they might be looking to go (your said she randomly goes ... She may have given you a sign that you missed) just pick her up and out the door! As others have said, you will probably have to set the alarm if she is not squawking loud enough to wake you. You need to create HER habit in knowing where to go. We have pups that were a snap to house break .... And others like this last one where we were thinking we would NEVER get there ... But we did! You will get there too .... Some pups just take longer than others!

Good luck and have fun with that pup!
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Re: Potty training

Postby BlkonBlkRS3 » Fri Feb 21, 2014 7:18 am

Could it be bladder infection? When potty training my female lab, she was doing the same thing and it was as if she couldn't hold it. She was also giving no warning until after it happened as if it hit her so suddenly she couldn't warn me first. She also was not upset about the accidents so I knew something was wrong. Sure enough, took her to the vet and she had a bladder infection. He told me this is common in female pups because when they pee they sometimes touch the ground picking up bacteria. Could be an option if it doesn't get better, keep an eye on it though. Round of antibiotics and not an accident since. Good luck.
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Re: Potty training

Postby wraithen » Fri Feb 21, 2014 7:38 am

As a warning device for completely housebroken dogs some like to hang a bell by the door and ring it everytime they go out to potty. eventually the pup picks up on it. My current dog goes out when I wake up and when I get home. I put her out after dinner and then right before bed. She never needs to tell me she has to go. I do believe that I have made her bladder release at this poibt by telling her to go potty. Its super handy on road trips. Also taught her that hard or paved surfaces are off limits for poop. She will dart off the sidewalk now if she needs to poop.

You need to instill the schedule on your own terms. Im gone from 515 am until about that time in the evening most work days. dog has to learn to deal with that somehow. My current dog has fresh water in her crate at all times. She wont drink in there because she knows it will be a while until she gets out.
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Re: Potty training

Postby don novicki » Sun Feb 23, 2014 5:49 am

It was rough on me but when my guy was a little shaver I took him out every 2 hours so he could do his business (took 2 weeks off of work just for this purpose) and he was house trained in about a week to 10 days. He only had 1 accident in the house his whole life and that was because he was sick. I plan to do the same thing when I get my new pup this May. As the pup gets older then you can lengthen the time between outings.....just what I did. Great looking pup I might add.
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Re: Potty training

Postby buckmeister » Sun Feb 23, 2014 9:40 am

Dakota Creek wrote:
buckmeister wrote:But since their bladder is weak at that age I would not feed them kibble because it makes them drink twice the water as canned or fresh food would. Especially I would not feed dry food if they are going to be in a kennel for 10 hours as a puppy.


?? So thousands of successful breeders are wrong when they wean their puppies onto dry food? (And no one should be leaving a pup in a kennel for 10 hours ... I don't believe the OP stated that)

Another poster in the thread stated he had to leave pup in crate for ten hours because of work.

The point of crate training besides protecting pup is to confine them in a small area where they don't want to soil because they will have to be in it. If I was going to have to leave a puppy in a crate for longer periods than their bladders can handle I would not want them drinking double the water amounts that kibble causes over canned or fresh food. Because "thousands" of "successful" breeders needing to feed multiple dogs in a whelping pen choose kibble does not prove its the logical choice for a pup that has to be crate trained. When pup is urinating in the crate it is not reinforcing the behavior you want. Seems more logical to create the circumstances for success if longer periods in crate without being aired out are demanded.

This also applies to an older 14 year old inside dog that may be at that point where they cant control their bladder, fresh or canned food can be a better option for the dog that might urinate when sleeping.
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Re: Potty training

Postby Dakota Creek » Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:30 am

buckmeister wrote:The point of crate training besides protecting pup is to confine them in a small area where they don't want to soil because they will have to be in it. If I was going to have to leave a puppy in a crate for longer periods than their bladders can handle I would not want them drinking double the water amounts that kibble causes over canned or fresh food. Because "thousands" of "successful" breeders needing to feed multiple dogs in a whelping pen choose kibble does not prove its the logical choice for a pup that has to be crate trained. When pup is urinating in the crate it is not reinforcing the behavior you want.


I totally understand the point of crate training .... Every pup through this house has been successfully housebroken via using a crate and gradually expanding the area the pup has for sleeping in. Hopefully the OP has broken the pups feedings into three meals per day with access to water and plenty of time after feeding to ensure the dog can empty their bowel and bladder. Along with some exercise / play time before being put back into their kennel. The pup should then be able to "hold it" until they are let out again in 2-3 hours (on the clock) or they wake up prior to that and let the OP know that they have to go out.

Our successful crate training has been done, time after time after time feeding kibble, as I am sure most posters on this board have done. As to feeding canned or fresh .... By "fresh" are you suggesting a raw diet? If so, that is a totally different discussion as you need to know what you are doing to ensure the dog is getting sufficient dietary needs, not just raw meat. And with regards to canned food, unless it is a specific veterinary canned food for a health issue, IMHO the only use for the canned food found in the dog food aisle is to use it as a last resort to try to get a dog who is off their food to start to eat again not as a regular diet.

And to the OP ... She's a cute looking pup!
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Re: Potty training

Postby buckmeister » Sun Feb 23, 2014 1:11 pm

I really confuse the issue when I say fresh, my point is kibble requires much more water for the dog to drink to digest their food even if you soak it in water. I have observed this in my own three dogs, I would have to fill the water bowl up twice as much when I would feed kibble. A busy guy that had no choice to leave dog in kennel could buy canned dog food which has the moisture content and wont require drinking as much. By Fresh food I mean home made. That could be scrambled eggs and sweet potatoes or raw hamburger meat. But for any age dog if this rout is pursued bone meal powder or tablets needs to be added to dogs food along with a fat content. They make raw dog food paddies that have ground bone in them that are great for a young pup especially when they are growing. Canned Sardines are a good choice for dogs because they have the bones in them and provide some calcium and phosphorus.
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Re: Potty training

Postby wraithen » Sun Feb 23, 2014 1:30 pm

The dog will learn when to drink its water. It soiling in the crate is fine until it decides its comfortable to do so. Using wet food so you don't use as much water seems kind of... illogical to me. My dog drinks a lot in the evenings. She is a pet so she gets water always available. She knows not to gorge herself in the mornings.
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Re: Potty training

Postby copterdoc » Mon Feb 24, 2014 1:42 am

Jesus H. Christ, my God in Heaven!!!!!

Dogs (and puppies) do just damn fine on a quality kibble.
You've gone completely off the deep end Buck.
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Re: Potty training

Postby CrazyDrake » Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:15 pm

mr.green wrote:My question is how do I get her to let me know she has to go out?



to answer this question, my wife made a set of bells to put on the door, out lab was ringing the bells to go outside after 3-4 days, and had maybe one or two accidents after those 3 days. So all in all, we brought her home at 8 weeks on the dot, and she had less than 5 accidents inside.. Now in the crate was a different story at night. But she caught on quick. Wasn't having over night accidents by about 11 or 12 weeks.

The bells, or "tinkle bells" as my wife calls them, work wonders!
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Re: Potty training

Postby B.E.Nelli » Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:20 pm

CrazyDrake wrote:
mr.green wrote:My question is how do I get her to let me know she has to go out?



to answer this question, my wife made a set of bells to put on the door, out lab was ringing the bells to go outside after 3-4 days, and had maybe one or two accidents after those 3 days. So all in all, we brought her home at 8 weeks on the dot, and she had less than 5 accidents inside.. Now in the crate was a different story at night. But she caught on quick. Wasn't having over night accidents by about 11 or 12 weeks.

The bells, or "tinkle bells" as my wife calls them, work wonders!


Yup, keeps em from scratching on the door too.
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