new puppy first time training

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new puppy first time training

Postby Joel » Sun May 08, 2005 3:13 pm

:help: what is the best way to teach a lab to bring back a bunker he is a 7 week old lab
make sure you scrach my Cooder, tickle my Cricket and feed Jake <thats my pups>
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Postby ACEBLDRS » Sun May 08, 2005 3:52 pm

Congradutlations on the new pup. Read a lot , as much as you can. get yourself some videos. before you can train your pup, you must train yourself.

The best way to get a dog started retrieving things is to have fun with it when they are young. don't start putting pressure on your 2 month old dog if he dosn't retrieve for you. My lab didn't want to retrieve any thing more than a couple of times until he was about 5 months old, now i can't get him to stop. I think if i threw a railroad tie out in the front yard he would be droppin it on my lap in about an hour. Not all young dogs have that real strong desire to retrieve. Many people will probably say that the dog isn't any good. I will disagree. just a little slow to get things going. \



Right now the most important thing that you can do to create a succefull dog is to work on obediance obediance and more obediance. Because down the road when you start your formal retriever training. Your dog must be very steady in his obediance. it is the backbone of all dog training. for one thing by teaching your dog to set, stay, and heal. you are teaching him that you are the boss. when you give a command, he will listen, no if ands or dog butts about it.

have fun. also look in on this link from time to time for tips. www.gunclub-labs.com/tip.html
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Postby gsphunter » Sun May 08, 2005 7:13 pm

I wouldn't be throwing bumpers for a 7 week old dog either, unless of course they are very small puppy bumpers. Tie a knot in an old sock and throw this around for him. Get him real fired up about the object that you choose (small, soft, light weight) then throw the object for him. If he picks it up, lots lots lots of praise. If he brings it back, more praise. Don't automatically reach for the object when the dog gets to you. If he drops it, stop praising. The idea is lots of praise while the object is in the dogs mouth. If you reach for it all the time, it will make the dog immediately drop when it gets to you. Start in a hallway so the dog has no other options of direction either. Good Luck and Have Fun. No pressure yet.
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Postby Tad » Mon May 09, 2005 8:37 am

ACEBLDRS wrote:Read a lot , as much as you can...before you can train your pup, you must train yourself.


A lot of great advice thus far, but ACEBLDRS hit the nail in the head.

We used a small dog toy we called "Bumper Dog"...a soft ~8 inch white bumper-shaped toy with red ears. As with all of my dog's bumpers, I made sure she learned that although "Bumper Dog" was a lot of fun to retrieve, it was not a toy and was put up after each session. This helped to prolong the life of "Bumper Dog" :yes: and begin to teach her about work time vs. play time.

Congratulations on the the new puppy and good luck with the training. You're going to make mistakes and you're going to get frustrated from time-to-time, but there will be a lot of fun and rewarding times along the way. While training, especially on those frustrating days, I always try to keep in mind something I read early on: There are no "dog" mistakes, only "trainer" mistakes. :thumbsup:
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Re: puppy and leash

Postby Joel » Mon May 09, 2005 10:06 pm

[quote="Joel"]:help: what is the best way to leash brake a puppy when i put him on a leash he throws a fit.
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Postby gsphunter » Tue May 10, 2005 7:04 am

If the dog just goes nuts when you put the leash on, put a super lightweight one on him and let him drag it around. Just let him get used to wearing one before you go any further.

Second, if the dog is constantly pulling on you and won't give to your pressure. Stake the dog out. Tie him to a tree, the bumper of a truck, whatever you have available. Walk away from the dog and leave him alone. DO NOT go to him unless you think he is going to break a leg or some other horrible thing. This will teach two things. He doesn't always need you to console him and to give to pressure. Once you can see that the dog is giving to pressure and not barking or carrying on, go to him with some water or a treat.

After typing this though, I remembered in you first post that the dog was 7wks, so it is now probably 8wks or so. What kind of leash work are you doing? I think you could possibly be expecting a little to much out of a very young puppy. Your biggest concern right now should be making that dog your best friend. You have plenty of time to make a good retriever out of him.
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playing feching game

Postby Joel » Wed May 18, 2005 11:03 pm

started palying the feching game with my pup at about 7 weeks and for a about 10 min 2x a day and is doing wonderful as long as he is in the house outside he will not fech even a short 2-3 foot throw do i need to stay inside or start over outside. thanks for all the help my pup Cooder is learning fast and you guys have been a good help
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Re: playing feching game

Postby ACEBLDRS » Thu May 19, 2005 8:41 am

Joel wrote: thanks for all the help my pup Cooder is learning fast and you guys have been a good help


Well, I bet if you rubbed that bumper all over Miss Daisy, then Cooder would bring it back and not let go. But don't let Bo and Luke know about it.

Cooder is a great name. When you go outside and try to learn things that you did inside, you need to start out the sameway that you did inside. Its almost like going back to the beginning, but not quite that bad. Whatever you did inside to get him excited about picking up the bumper, you need to try outside, maybe even get more excited yourself. Even when learning advanced things can through a dog off when moving from backyard to field, or field to water. A dog may be solid on hand signals in the field but when you get him out in the pond he acts like he's never heard a whistle. Even moving from different fields can through a dog for a loop. Thats why i believe you shouldn't always train in one field. Your dog may be solid and confident on your back fourty, But then you go to your first trial or just over to a friends field to show him off. And all of the smells have changed, he is not as confident in this new area. now all of this might not happen as drasticly but every dogs confidents and attention span is different.

Try and remember what you did to get your dog excited about the bumper inside and take that excitement outside. At this age when he gets the bumper, you need to be excited. Don't worry if he doesn't bring it back to you all of the way. As long as he starts to head your direction you should be happy. But you should always be thinking ahead. If you are going to want to train your dog in the Force Fetch, Think ahead a little bit, don't let him start to learn bad habbits that will be hard to correct in about 6 months. Little things like don't reward him for dropping the bumper 5 feet away from you, don't scold him either. You just want to set the table for the future, it will always make training easier if you think ahead just a little bit. When i say think ahead, i don't mean "GET AHEAD". Alway move along at your dogs pace, let him digest what you are feeding him, but keep him moving forward just a little bit always.

Thats my .02

I'm not a professional dog trainer, however, i did stay at a holliday inn express last night. :laughing:
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pup is ten weeks old

Postby Joel » Sat Jun 04, 2005 6:09 pm

pup is feching wonderfull but 50% of the time dearing the first sesion 10 min two times a day i have to cast the pup twice befor he will fech it up but the training sesion in the after noon i have no problems with him at all . Thanks for the help Cooder is learning fast
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Postby duckdog » Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:54 pm

TAKE YOUR TIME, AND MAKE IT FUN!!!
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fech it up

Postby Joel » Fri Jun 10, 2005 8:35 pm

my pup is 11 weeks old and was feching wonderful but for the past few days he will run out there to get the bumper like a bat out of hell run back and then vear off away form me and not bring me the bumper. I call to him here pup here and he will drop the bumper and run to me what can i do?
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Postby gsphunter » Fri Jun 10, 2005 11:41 pm

Don't worry about it. Your pup is only 11 weeks old. You don't need to force any retrieving on him right now. Make it fun for him. One way though to get dogs to pick bumpers up on the return is to back up. This will somewhat keep the dog from always dropping as soon as they get to you, because they expect to have to carry to where you back up to. Like I said before though, you only have an 11 week old puppy and you don't need to turn him into a machine by 3 months old.
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Postby cmelik10 » Sat Jun 11, 2005 10:46 am

Joel
One this that I am going to tell you that I don't think has been mentioned yet. When you pup brings back the bumper or whatever you are using to do your retrieves with, do not, and I will repeat that do not, snatch the object from your pup right away. You may already know, you may not, but the results of doing that are not good and hard to fix. I am dealing with that right now when my pup was very young I would throw balls in a hallway or stuff outside for her but when she got back to me I would take it from her right away and threw it again. Well now she is very reluctant to come back to me with a bumper. She is 7 months old and I have had to step back and treat her as if she was 10 weeks old and throw very short 5-6 foot marks and reel her in and the praise and pet her while she held and play with the bumper. At this point in time have fun with him/her the time flies by.

Good Luck
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choke chain

Postby Joel » Sun Jun 12, 2005 9:19 pm

my pup is 3 mo. old when should i introduce a choke chain in obedience training thanks for all the help
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Postby AlaskaRedneK » Sun Jun 12, 2005 9:20 pm

Dont know that I can be too much help on the training.....

But :salude: on yer new pup!
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Postby AlaskaRedneK » Sun Jun 12, 2005 9:20 pm

You should post some pics for us!

And what color lab is it?

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Postby Joel » Tue Jun 14, 2005 6:38 am

I will post a pic but realy need to know about the choke chain thanks
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Re: puppy and leash

Postby shrpshtr » Tue Jun 14, 2005 7:38 am

Joel wrote:
Joel wrote::help: what is the best way to leash brake a puppy when i put him on a leash he throws a fit.


take him for a long walk (a mile or 2) with a pinch collar (not a choker chain). the pinch collar has prongs that protrude inwards towards the dog's neck. don't worry, you won't hurt him but i can guarantee he won't pull against that chain more than once or twice. you will be shocked at how effective those collars are. take the walk about 3 or 4 days in the 1st week and you'll probably never feel a tug on the end of the leash again. just my .02

note: lemme know if you don't know what i mean about the pinch collar.
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heal

Postby Joel » Tue Jun 14, 2005 11:47 am

pinch collar or choke chain for teaching a dog too heal his 3 mo old or should i just slow down
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Postby ACEBLDRS » Tue Jun 14, 2005 1:57 pm

Joel i have used both. When my pup was a pup i used the pinch colar. It worked great. It helped teach him to stop pulling on the colar. That kept him from dragging my wife to the park, which he was strong enough to do by about 4 months. I have since givin it to a friend who walks her dog and young daughter a couple times a day. They use it and it keeps the dog from pulling her arm off.

I have since gone to the choke colar. I like it the best. Here is why i like to train with it. I hope i can spit this out ok. When you start of teaching a young dog to heal I used the choke colar and a long lead. I did what was called the square drill. You walk with your dog at heel for 20' and then plant your outside leg(my left) and make a 90 degree turn to the right. the dog will probably be walking in front of you smellin the roses. when you make the right turn and the dog continues forward give him a good pop on the collar and give the command "HEEL". don't drag him to you and don't keep yankin on the collar. Just a good hard pop. after waliking 20' make another right turn and repeat...... and so on.

When you pull on the lead and pop the choke chain, you can hear the links of the chain as the slide on each other when the chain is closing. the dog will eventially pick this up after a lot of reps. and soon when he starts to stray away from the "HEEL" position. the chain will start to slide and he will fall back into position. That is your dog learnig how to turn off the pressure of the colar. Something that he will be learning more of when you start moving forward in training.

Another way of doing this is instead of making a 90 deg. turn. Make a complete 180. I do this often to shake up the sequence in the training. I wasn't trying to trick him into anything, i just wanted to make sure that heel didn't meen a bunch of right turns.

good luck!
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Postby shrpshtr » Tue Jun 14, 2005 4:02 pm

joel, ace had some really good info in that post. really it's a matter of preference. i personally like the pinch collar for several reasons. ace actually listed the main one. i have a big lab who could drag my wife wherever he wanted to go so it really helped with that. another imo, you'll see greater results quicker with the pinch collar than with a choker. what i mean is the dog will stay very concious of the effects the collar has on him/her. the difference you'll see in the training is the dog won't consider leaving your side. he'll always keep his eyes on you to prevent that collar from getting him. while there is nothing wrong with ace's method (tons of people use it) i prefer keeping the dog at heel when walking around with him outside of my yard. in the yard, i use very little commands and let him do his thing to relax, etc.

about the timing, i believe in ob training from the start. (day 49) obviously the younger the dog the shorter the sessions. the keep is consistent repetition. i don't think 3 months is too young at all.

good luck.
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Postby ACEBLDRS » Tue Jun 14, 2005 5:48 pm

i'll agree with all of that shrp. The pinch collar gets faster more consistent results. After i broke my dog of wandering away from heel. I didn't use the pincher much anymore. I will also say that i wish my dog heeled better. I don't want to come off like i have a perfectly trained dog. He as well as myself are a work in progress. Anything i say is purely out of my experiances. And I hope some of them help.
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no no no no

Postby Joel » Wed Jun 22, 2005 8:53 pm

my pup is trying to test me he is 13 weeks old is he going throw adolisens yha my spelling suck im a hick too.
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Postby ACEBLDRS » Wed Jun 22, 2005 9:05 pm

Joel, those little fellers try a mans patients sometime don't they. Man, i can remember trying to teach my pup "stay" (something that i won't do again) but i thought It was hopeless. I tried and tried different ways. One night the old lady went out with friends and i decided tonight was it. He was going to get it. I did basically everything i had done in the past, except this time it clicked in his head.

Just stick with whatever you are trying to get across to him. don't get frustrated with him!!!

One more thing Joel, 13 wks was about the time mine was a pain in the ***. I would tell him to come or some other command and he would pull his i'm a puppy i'm to cute to listen to your ugly ass. Don't let your pup(dog) ever get away with ignoring your command! No matter what the command is. If he does this get in his mugg. I would take my pup and turn him on his back, with both hands grab his neck and tell him "NOOOOOOOOOOOOO" I would kinda growl at him when i did this. Now mind you this looks abusive but it is purely Gentle, I never would hurt my dog or anyone else's. This process is the exact thing the dogs mother would do to him if he misbehaved :thumbsup: . Look at how dogs react to other dogs in the park. If there is a dominant dog around the others know it especially the puppies. when they are unsure of the situation or think they are in trouble they flop over on their backs. Doing this will show your dog that YOU are his MASTER. YOU are the BIG DOG.... My dog was 24months the last time i did it. It was a hell of a lot harder to do to him at 2yrs. then it was at 13 weeks. but he had to be reminded who was the BIG DOG :yes:
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Postby bullet » Wed Jun 22, 2005 9:35 pm

Kind of new to this side of the forum. I'm on my third lab so I'm no expert but have worked hard with all my labs and the 10 monther I'm working on now is the best bred dog of the bunch. Iuse pro trainers to refine my dogs as well. I don't put a whole lot of contol on my pup at that age. not to much obedience work leash work etc. My only concern is to get the dog "Giddy" for birds and retrieving. He was doing water retrieves at 60 days old and retrieving shot birds at 90 days. I don't think he'd even had a collar on at this point yet. He's a bird Freak. Continue working retrieves with the pup and when he looks not interested put the dummy up and only break it out when its time to play retrieve. At 7 months I began obedience and it was fairly simple. Force Fetch. Force Retrieve was next. You need some pigeons. I'm sure there will be plenty here who say obedience first, but I say "play the game" first and the game is finding and or bringing back birds. Give me an old dog from the pound and 3 weeks and he'll be obedient, but he won't hunt. Just my 2 cents
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