Homemade Tiller Conversion

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Homemade Tiller Conversion

Postby CountryRN » Mon Aug 27, 2012 1:59 pm

Hey all, I just wanted to share a little about my latest project. I love to work on things and I have a self proclaimed doctorate in “rigging” on the cheap.
I have a 1236 Jon that has been powered by a 4hp. It was better than a paddle and would push the boat ok but didn’t quite cut it for any more of a load than my lard on the back bench. Just my luck my aunt up-powered her small skiff and no longer needed her 4stroke 8hp Yamaha. I told her that I would be glad to give it a new home.
Just one problem, her skiff was a remote steer and I need a tiller. Price for a conversion tiller is about $300-$400 and I don’t have the extra cash – hence the DIY thread.

Note the rusted frozen power tilt motor in red which was another reason she wanted to get rid of this unit.
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It took about 20 minutes to build a stand for the motor from some scraps that I had around the garage.
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The tilt was frozen in the down position. The lower unit was not able to be tilted any because the electric motor part of the trim assembly protruded through the frame of the transom mount blocking much of any movement. I used my favorite tools (hammer, chisel and drill) to remove enough of the tilt motor to raise the lower unit and pull the pins to the ram.
The plan is to leave the tilt function detached. I fish and hunt in very shallow areas and want the motor to lift freely when I hit rocks or other objects under water.
3.jpg


I had about 5 or 6 wires that were not connected to anything. The Tiller from Yamaha comes with a wire harness to connect all of these. I downloaded a service manual from http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/%20...%20aintenancefor a little under $15. Excellent purchase!
4.jpg


Wired up a small ignition switch that I took off an old lawn mower and she fired up first turn of the key.
4.5.jpg
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Re: Homemade Tiller Conversion

Postby CountryRN » Mon Aug 27, 2012 2:23 pm

After seeing lots of mud motors on DHC, I got the idea to use this old bike handlebar and brake lever for the tiller and throttle. The 3/8 bolts, a couple of spacers will attach it to the outboard. I was able to fit the ignition and the kill switches in an electrical junction box.
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This is the plate where a tiller would mount anyway. The predrilled holes were just a little too big, so the spacers fit the need.
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The handle mounts up nicely and is longer than a purchased tiller would be. That will allow me to sit a little further forward in the boat to offset some weight.
handle.jpg


This bracket was cut off of one of the brake assembly. The brake cable came in a $4 cable replacement kit from Wal-Mart. I drilled a hole in the bracket to use an existing bolt for mounting. The cable enters the motor housing through the holes that the electrical cables run already.
7.jpg


I used another cable guide from the bike to free float along the throttle linkage. There was a small threaded part that “T’ed” off the guide that originally was used to hold the guide to the brake assembly. I drilled a hole in the threaded section just large enough to fit the cable through. Using a couple of washers and the nut that held the part on the brake, I was able to pull the cable tight and then lock it in place.
8.jpg
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Re: Homemade Tiller Conversion

Postby CountryRN » Mon Aug 27, 2012 2:26 pm

I got her mounted up on the boat. I used a 1/8th inch plate of sheet steel bolted to the transom with ½ bolts. It elevates the cav. plate on the lower unit even with the bottom of the boat.
9.jpg


With the brake lever pulled all the way in it opens the throttle just shy of WOT. I could make some adjustments to get that extra little bit out of her but I generally don’t like to run my motors wide open anyway.
It may not look great but it’s functional and cost a total of maybe $30 and a couple hours of work. To me that sounds a lot better than $300-$400.
If you got any feedback, let’s hear it. Always room for improvement.
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Re: Homemade Tiller Conversion

Postby lostknife4 » Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:30 am

Great ingenuity!
Suggestion:
Since the engine try's to pull backwards on the top and push forward on the bottom that piece of plywood might not be sufficient to prevent the engine from cracking the plywood and the engine going for a swim.

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A piece of aluminum angle iron will prevent you losing your engine.
Lost
"It's not the game but the chase ~ not the trophy but the race !" from my Dad, many years ago.
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Re: Homemade Tiller Conversion

Postby CountryRN » Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:52 am

lostknife4 wrote:Great ingenuity!
Suggestion:
Since the engine try's to pull backwards on the top and push forward on the bottom that piece of plywood might not be sufficient to prevent the engine from cracking the plywood and the engine going for a swim.

Image

A piece of aluminum angle iron will prevent you losing your engine.
Lost


Thanks for the comments. I enjoy working on projects like this, and am working on a blind for the boat now.
What you are seeing as plywood is actually a 1/8th inch sheet of plate steel that is held to the transom with 6 1/2inch bolts and large washers. Probably a little overkill but it was just taking up space at the house. I also have a large plastic covered cable and large padlock threw the transom mount on the motor to the boat just incase of an "Epic Fail". In that case I hope the flotation in the seats is still viable.. LOL :hammer:
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Re: Homemade Tiller Conversion

Postby lostknife4 » Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:58 am

That will more than hold it.......... you're right I saw it as plywood. Lost
"It's not the game but the chase ~ not the trophy but the race !" from my Dad, many years ago.
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Re: Homemade Tiller Conversion

Postby handyandy » Sat Sep 15, 2012 2:04 pm

Some more awesome redneck engineering I like it and if works it works who cares if ain't the prettiest.
Red neck engineering- If ya can't fix it with duck tape, bailing wire, zip ties, and JB weld well than it can't be fixed.

If it moves and it aint suppose to duck tape it. If doesn't move and its suppose to put WD-40 on it.
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