duck pit plans

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duck pit plans

Postby Tiny81 » Thu Dec 12, 2013 2:48 pm

I just made my first steel duck pit this year. I searched the web not finding much but a few pics of pits for sales etc. I thought that I would post on how I built my pit. It may not be right or wrong but it works for us.

To start with I bought steel from the local steel yard, I had them do some of the cutting and welding to same me time and hassle.

I started with the following material: to make a 4’x4’x18’ pit (6man 2 dog box)

3- 4’x18’ 12ga steel (4x8 welded to 4x10 from vendor) for bottom and sides
2- trapezoid 45”w bottom 32”w top 48” tall for end caps(cut by vendor)
1- 4’x10’pc cut into 15”x10’ strips for base flanges(cut by vendors)
2-2’x4’ pc for dog boxes
10- 1½”x1 ½”x1/8” angle iron (I would recommend 2” though)

My steps were as follows;

Weld a pc of angle length ways along side pc 18” from the top, and add a small lift point centered.
Weld the 2 end caps inset 1.5” from edges of bottom pc(for t-weld instead of butt) put on anchor point(angle)
Hoist the sides up and tack weld to the bottom and ends. Sides should be inset 1.5”, and overlap ends 1.5”
pit 1.JPG


Then i put bracing in for the dog box, 2x12 bench seat, and ceter bracing. I put the dog box 18" down from the top. My seat height was around 16". i put bracing in the center to stiffen. I mounted the seat supports so that the 2x12 can slide back and forth. I put angle around the top.
photo 2.JPG


After bracing i made solid welds all around pit to seal. Put the dox box sheet on. Then put the 15" strips along the bottom for anchoring. with angle bracing as shown
photo 3 (2).JPG


I chose garage door panels for the top, so that they could slide either way depending on the wind.
photo 3.JPG


When installing we put mobile home anchors on each end with cable(would recommnend 2 in the middle also). The floor has a slight bow after pressure I should have ran angle cross ways under the floor. It had enough down anchoring to hold in the ground. We flooded the field the same day we back filled.
This is just how we did it, hunts 6 and 2 dogs well. we have a 12volt bilge to pump out rain water. Just thought i would share, since i had a hard time trying to get an idea of how to build one. I am no proffesional welder, but i did 95% of the welding with a 220 mig. It was not as hard as i thought it might be just took a little time.
photo 4.JPG
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Re: duck pit plans

Postby thomashamm2 » Fri Dec 13, 2013 8:42 am

Ive always wondered how do u flood fields?
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Re: duck pit plans

Postby tenfingergrip » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:47 am

Good job!

Hope you've got enough anchoring in place. That size box will probably require around 18,000 pounds of anchor strength (less the weight of the blind) to keep it from floating if the ditch you put it in is completely flooded, I think. Has it popped up any?

Do you find that 16" seats are a little low? Must be some young knees in the blind! :)
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Re: duck pit plans

Postby tenfingergrip » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:16 am

You may have already done it, but something that I've done on the pit blinds (rectangular septic tanks) I've put in several impoundments, is to construct a hanging shelf out of flat steel and 5/4 round treated wood board that just hangs over the front of the blind so that you have a convenient place to put your shells etc..

Have you painted the inside yet? It'll be a rust pit in no time if not.
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Re: duck pit plans

Postby Tiny81 » Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:42 pm

I think we have enough down rigging. We have 16.5" of flange down the length of the pit on both sides and the 2 screw in anchors. It has been flooded at max pool for 2 months with no movement. I was worried from all of the pop up stories, but so far so good
16" seems about right for us,but most of us are younger.
I did put a bracket to hold a 2x4 shelf on front or back of pit.
As far as paint I opted not to paint at all. After talking with a corrosion tech at work, he said that without a proper coat of paint covering 100 percent of the steel you will actually create "hot spots" where there is not coating that will corrode at a much more rapid rate than if you were to leave the entire pit bare and let it corrode more evenly. I have thought about using mag anodes for cathodic protection but they are a little pricey.
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Re: duck pit plans

Postby Gj325 » Sat Jan 18, 2014 1:13 pm

Very nice job.
I own a sheet metal company and I have plans to make a pit for my duck hunting. I was going to have mine powder coated but in the inside I was going to cover with Alucabond alum composite material very light has alum on both sides and thermo plastic core. I was thinking of making the top with a 2" rect brake to allow for ACM to slip under. The ACM sheets come std 196" x 62" I can get this material up to 252" long. This is what you see being used on all car dealerships can get in a tan color to help blend in to dead grass.

Does anyone cover their pits in the off year to keep water out. My thought were to leave pit out of ground approx 4" the make a top to cover 14' x 30 " opening out of same ACM material then fasten with washer screw in top of flat 2" lid The top would turn down 3" to flush with ground. I was hoping to keep pit dry during offseason to prevent snakes other critters out of blind. The ACM only weighs 125 pounds for 196 x 62" sheet so top would weigh 60 lbs max.

I have shears and press brakes that will cut and break up to 1/4" plate so I can just about fab anything needed for a pit if anyone wants to build on but can't fabricate metal.

I am just outside of Memphis Not looking for work I have plenty of that just willing to help a hunter.
Anyone have any thoughts if that will do the job.

I usually have plenty of scrap. This stuff is expensive but if anyone is interested in a top pm me. I can give you a good deal.
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