Pit Blind Flaps

A place for people to discuss "do it yourself" projects from building blinds, to boats and everything in between.

Moderator: Botiz630

Pit Blind Flaps

Postby Hogsbreath » Wed Mar 12, 2014 8:51 pm

Has anyone made any pit blind flaps? I'm looking for plans or examples like Gibson Flip-Flops. We've got a roll top blind, but it is heavy as all-get-out, and nearly impossible to roll back by one person. Any suggestions?
Hogsbreath
hunter
 
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2014 7:39 pm


Re: Pit Blind Flaps

Postby scruggs12 » Thu Mar 13, 2014 7:36 pm

Cut the top of a commercial garbage can. The ones the trash companies provide. The are plastic and you can cut them below the hinges. Lightweight and can modify a little by setting them on 2x4's if the pit blind opening is too big. You can cut slots to be able to see out of and also to add camo, vegetation, etc.

https://www.google.com/search?q=commerc ... B471%3B276
scruggs12
hunter
 
Posts: 183
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:04 pm

Re: Pit Blind Flaps

Postby Freezer » Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:45 am

PVC pipe can build almost any cover you want. I hunt the refuge blinds and made flip covers with 3/4" pipe, green chicken wire. A light net cover was installed and some light vegetation on top is all you'll need. With a few elbows, 45s and tees you could make a swing cover.
Freezer
hunter
 
Posts: 194
Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 12:41 pm

Re: Pit Blind Flaps

Postby Huntfish12 » Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:47 am

These worked out ok. Got less then $200 in parts and thats with alot of trial and error including stuff i didnt need. If you do something like this, go with sturdy unions, and sturdy hinge hardware. they are the weak points in the design. Ive replaced a few of the unions on mine with a better metal and they are lasting alot longer.
Attachments
036.jpg
032.jpg
032.jpg (39.22 KiB) Viewed 1910 times
031.jpg
031.jpg (36.52 KiB) Viewed 1910 times
Theres always someone out there thats better then you. I'm that guy.
Huntfish12
hunter
 
Posts: 1339
Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2010 6:35 pm
Location: Patiently waiting for the weather....

Re: Pit Blind Flaps

Postby BillMurray » Sat Mar 22, 2014 5:30 pm

I picked up some wood heavy duty lattice someone was throwing away and cut it lengthwise into 12" sections. Then cut it the width of our pit openings. I braced it with thin strips of wood on each side then attached cheap hinges. Then covered it with burlap and mudded it and covered in stalks/stubble. They are super light and easily fly open like layout doors. One folds down in front and one behind the shooter. We left a couple inch gap to be able to peek out while we are calling

I was very happy with it considering the covers we had before were just sheets of plywood and heavy as all get out. Totally recommend this approach to anyone making pit doors
BillMurray
hunter
 
Posts: 115
Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2013 9:11 am

Re: Pit Blind Flaps

Postby tenfingergrip » Tue May 27, 2014 1:59 pm

breath,
Don't know what type of blind you've got, but here is a sketch I did back about 15 years ago for a blind I was putting up in some old abandoned gravel/sand pits that I leased from a paving company to duck and goose hunt in. The only thing I remember it costing me was for some hinges and a couple of rubber heavy duty bungee cords, camo paint and a few eye screws. There was lots of old 4x4 treated 1/2 inch plywood road signs, plenty of treated 4/4 x 8' treated signposts and rolls of that black plastic erosion fencing. Everything I needed to make a blind and even had a contingent of mallards & widgeon that visited all thru the day.

I found some 5/4 rounded treated boards that I made the flip top out of after I took them back to my shop and split them so the top wouldn't be so heavy. I used the bungee cords to assist in pulling the lid back and all you had to do was give it a little shove and the bungees would do the rest. The bungees were attached to eye screws in the lid and back-support posts. I had to put a "stopper chains" on each side which were attached to the lid and the middle of the side-support posts. They would keep the lid from going all the way back and down. I had to "fine tune' the chains and bungees so the "recoil" wouldn't bring the lid back down on my/our heads. I later put in a middle back-support post to further support the lid as the torque from the bungees was trying to destroy the lid. The extra post made it much better. The lid was attached to back three posts with hinges. I brushed the blind and the lid with red cedar, which is prevalent around here, using cable ties. The blind served me well for many years until the paving company sold the property for big bucks.

Not sure if I would do that same lid out of the same construction material now. I now have access to thousands of pieces of conduit which was used in a tree farm to hold up the tree protectors, so about the bottom 2 feet is rusty beyond use but the other 8 feet is fine. I think using elbows for corners and flattening out the ends of cross pieces, I could make the lid much lighter and be just as effective. Bungees would still work for the 'assist pull'.

Click to enlarge
Flip top blind.jpg
Last edited by tenfingergrip on Thu Jul 24, 2014 11:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
tenfingergrip
hunter
 
Posts: 1749
Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2008 7:43 pm
Location: Eastern NC

Re: Pit Blind Flaps

Postby Fowlaction » Tue Jul 22, 2014 10:07 am

Huntfish12 wrote:These worked out ok. Got less then $200 in parts and thats with alot of trial and error including stuff i didnt need. If you do something like this, go with sturdy unions, and sturdy hinge hardware. they are the weak points in the design. Ive replaced a few of the unions on mine with a better metal and they are lasting alot longer.



I built some doors like this for my pit blind out of EMT and Bimini hardware.how did you connect the cross bar did you weld it on?
Fowlaction
Newb
 
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2014 9:44 am

Re: Pit Blind Flaps

Postby Huntfish12 » Fri Jul 25, 2014 5:19 am

Fowlaction wrote:
Huntfish12 wrote:These worked out ok. Got less then $200 in parts and thats with alot of trial and error including stuff i didnt need. If you do something like this, go with sturdy unions, and sturdy hinge hardware. they are the weak points in the design. Ive replaced a few of the unions on mine with a better metal and they are lasting alot longer.



I built some doors like this for my pit blind out of EMT and Bimini hardware.how did you connect the cross bar did you weld it on?

yep
Theres always someone out there thats better then you. I'm that guy.
Huntfish12
hunter
 
Posts: 1339
Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2010 6:35 pm
Location: Patiently waiting for the weather....


Return to Do It Yourself Hunting

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests