Do it yourself weights

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Do it yourself weights

Postby grizz18 » Wed Nov 09, 2011 8:03 am

I made some weights last night, and it was extremely easy. I made a mold from piece of 2x4, and melted down old fishing weights, and decoy weights. I wanted "j shape" weights.

The weights came out pretty good. I used mini bungee cords as the connection between the weight, and decoy line. The bungee allows the weight to hook on the keel.

Avg cost of 1 doz 4oz hook weights and the bungee line is $25!!!!!!

I did it for $4.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby sammyc » Wed Nov 09, 2011 8:06 am

What kind of pot did u use and how hot does it have to be to her the lead to melt? I have a bunch of old flexible weights and am gonna make some egg weights
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby grizz18 » Wed Nov 09, 2011 8:35 am

Hahaa funny you should ask. This was not a well thought out process. I was at a buddies house, and he would not let me use a pan. I ended up eating/tossing a can of tuna. Once the lid was off we bent the edge to create a "pour spot"

I dont know the temp, but its doesnt have to be super hot. We used an old "miniture" propane grill. If you had a fire with coals it would probably melt faster. We put in four 1oz weights at a time and it took about 3-4 for them to melt.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby WF1 » Wed Nov 09, 2011 8:49 am

I've been doing basically the same thing for all my decoys. I use a lee production pot (we pour a ton of fishing sinkers, and the $40 investment is WELL worth it).

I make mine even more of a J shape. I took an Ace anchor and traced the shape on the 2x4 and used a router to cut the shape out. Not pretty, but extremely functional.

A couple of things I've learned. 1) Get the hardest wood you can get your hands on. The softer woods after 3-5 pours will begin to splinter, and take chunks of wood out and the sinker will get stuck in the mold.
2)Be liberal with the pam after each pour (or every other pour).
3) Make several molds to add speed. Need to let each one sit for about 5 min then dump it into a bucket of water. Having multiple molds allows you to pour a few at a time, and the cycle gets going pretty good.

I poured 7 dozen "J" sinkers in less than an hour by myself. Once I pay for the lead and Avery "bungee" cords ($6/dozen), I'm usually in about $10-$12/dozen (compared to $25-30), saves a lot of $$.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby tenfingergrip » Wed Nov 09, 2011 11:15 am

If you are doing a lot of anchors, you may want to consider buying your "shock or bunge" cord in bulk as it saves lots of money. I bought 2 spools 5 years ago and still have about half left. You won't believe the uses you come up with besides using it for your anchors. I use the 1/8 inch black elastic shock cord. Cut it to length and burn the ends. It comes in either 500 ft rolls or 144 yd rolls for around 30 bucks. Here is a website that can supply you: Minimum order is $50 I think.


http://www.hnwelastic.com/products.htm#cords

http://hnwelastic.thomasnet.com/viewite ... ries/cords
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby marthagohunt » Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:14 pm

WF1 wrote:I've been doing basically the same thing for all my decoys. I use a lee production pot (we pour a ton of fishing sinkers, and the $40 investment is WELL worth it).

I make mine even more of a J shape. I took an Ace anchor and traced the shape on the 2x4 and used a router to cut the shape out. Not pretty, but extremely functional.

A couple of things I've learned. 1) Get the hardest wood you can get your hands on. The softer woods after 3-5 pours will begin to splinter, and take chunks of wood out and the sinker will get stuck in the mold.
2)Be liberal with the pam after each pour (or every other pour).
3) Make several molds to add speed. Need to let each one sit for about 5 min then dump it into a bucket of water. Having multiple molds allows you to pour a few at a time, and the cycle gets going pretty good.

I poured 7 dozen "J" sinkers in less than an hour by myself. Once I pay for the lead and Avery "bungee" cords ($6/dozen), I'm usually in about $10-$12/dozen (compared to $25-30), saves a lot of $$.


OK I'm lost.
Your dumping the weights or the molds with weights into water.
Better be just the weights because water and hot lead do not mix.......
When you went to pour your next ones it would not be safe..... My thoughts!
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby Frank Lopez » Thu Nov 10, 2011 3:49 pm

grizz18 wrote:Hahaa funny you should ask. This was not a well thought out process. I was at a buddies house, and he would not let me use a pan. I ended up eating/tossing a can of tuna. Once the lid was off we bent the edge to create a "pour spot"


LOL, That's exactly how my dad taught me to melt lead for sinkers. That was nearly sixty years ago. Only we didn't use a tuna can.

grizz18 wrote:I dont know the temp, but its doesnt have to be super hot. We used an old "miniture" propane grill. If you had a fire with coals it would probably melt faster. We put in four 1oz weights at a time and it took about 3-4 for them to melt.


If memory serves me correctly, it takes about 620 degrees F to melt lead. Sounds like a lot, but you can actually do it on a stove top. I've also used camping stoves and small wood fires. Just about anything will work.

As far as the J anchors. they'll work alright if you are on water that has no movement. We hunt tidal flats with a good 5 to 8 know current at times. Those 4 ounce J anchors just won't work. You need either more weight or a different design. What I found is that if you make a type of mushroom anchor with a small wire loop, you can get a pretty good bottom hold with minimum weight. I use a small muffin tin with #12 copper wire loops big enough to fit around the nose of the decoy keel. As far as the stretchee chords are concerned, you can get the Averys on line from a couple of different places for something like $5 or $6 per dozen.

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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby WF1 » Wed Nov 16, 2011 12:36 pm

marthagohunt wrote:
WF1 wrote:I've been doing basically the same thing for all my decoys. I use a lee production pot (we pour a ton of fishing sinkers, and the $40 investment is WELL worth it).

I make mine even more of a J shape. I took an Ace anchor and traced the shape on the 2x4 and used a router to cut the shape out. Not pretty, but extremely functional.

A couple of things I've learned. 1) Get the hardest wood you can get your hands on. The softer woods after 3-5 pours will begin to splinter, and take chunks of wood out and the sinker will get stuck in the mold.
2)Be liberal with the pam after each pour (or every other pour).
3) Make several molds to add speed. Need to let each one sit for about 5 min then dump it into a bucket of water. Having multiple molds allows you to pour a few at a time, and the cycle gets going pretty good.

I poured 7 dozen "J" sinkers in less than an hour by myself. Once I pay for the lead and Avery "bungee" cords ($6/dozen), I'm usually in about $10-$12/dozen (compared to $25-30), saves a lot of $$.


OK I'm lost.
Your dumping the weights or the molds with weights into water.
Better be just the weights because water and hot lead do not mix.......
When you went to pour your next ones it would not be safe..... My thoughts!


Definately don't put the mold into water. Water+lead=big time hazard. I'll pour the lead into the mold, let it sit for 3-5 min (with a fan on it, helps keeps fumes circulating and also helps lead harden quicker, which prevents it from sticking to the mold). Then after the lead is hardened I take a hammer and knock out the sinker into a bucket of water. It cools the lead almost instantly so that I can drill a hole and put the bungee cord in.

FWIW lead can be extremely dangerous, we always use welder's gloves and eye protection, and make sure we have multiple fans in an open area.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby 2500hdon37s » Wed Nov 16, 2011 12:41 pm

why not just hit up the 4oz egg sinker mold and make some and do a Rig' em right style? much better IMO
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby grizz18 » Wed Nov 16, 2011 3:30 pm

2500hdon37s wrote:why not just hit up the 4oz egg sinker mold and make some and do a Rig' em right style? much better IMO


I have no use for the rig em right. 90% of the water I hunt is too deep.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby BBK » Wed Nov 16, 2011 3:57 pm

I believe he said in another post that he puts the whole mold in to the water to cool, then when he pours next he has to pour super slow or the lead will splatter everywhere... IMO it should be against rules to post this method on the internet, you are just asking for someone to splatter lead all over themselves and cause severe burns. Its very STUPID, yes I said stupid, to do it that way. Spend $75 and get the J hook mold from do-it and do it the safe way, plus it has 3 sizes. Its the safe way to do it.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby WF1 » Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:22 pm

BBK wrote:I believe he said in another post that he puts the whole mold in to the water to cool, then when he pours next he has to pour super slow or the lead will splatter everywhere... IMO it should be against rules to post this method on the internet, you are just asking for someone to splatter lead all over themselves and cause severe burns. Its very STUPID, yes I said stupid, to do it that way. Spend $75 and get the J hook mold from do-it and do it the safe way, plus it has 3 sizes. Its the safe way to do it.



When did I say that? Guess I didn't make it clear enough to dump "it" ("it" being the lead, not the mold) into water. I've had an instance where a sinker broke and wanted to reuse the lead and I let it dry overnight and tried to melt it down and had it pop just enough to make me wait about a week before using anything that has been wet with hot lead.

I have plenty of do-it molds, but when I started doing the "J'" anchors it wasn't available so I had to try something else. Read my other posts about being safe with lead.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby BBK » Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:53 pm

If it wasnt you, I apologize. But someone posted the same method using a mold exactly like that and said they dunked the whole mold.. maybe I can find it.

Edit: I found it, here you go.

WI River Widow Maker wrote:Simple solution! Take a chunk of 2 x 4 and a Dremel tool (if you don't have one, I guarantee someone you know does). Carve a couple into the wood about 1/4 to 3/8 deep. When done, just drill out the holes for tying your line.
It works awesome!!!! You can make about 3 dozen per wood mold. Hard oak wood works even better if you can get your hands on some, but it's harder to carve. I made a bunch this year and they are amazing. Cooling time will be a little longer. You will need to poor cold water over the wood. After doing that and popping out the weights the wood will be wet. MAKE SURE WHEN YOU POOR MORE LEAD INTO THE WET MOLD THAT YOU POOR SLOWLY, PAUSING IF NECESSARY!!!!! The lead is so dense that it will trap the moisture underneath causing it to boil then eventually burp. If you poor it all at once it will splatter molten lead everywhere!!!! You don't want to get hit by that!! Again this only will happen if you poor very quickly. Pooring slow allows the moisture to steam off and evaporate, not boil.

Cheapest way to get those weights and you will be surprised how professionaly they actually look.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby Mudhole » Wed Nov 16, 2011 5:20 pm

Years ago I did the J weights the same way, in a wooden mold. Then, I bought a J mold off Ebay and dome em that way for a while. Then when I switch my dekes over the the Texas rig, I got a 4oz. mushroom sinker mold and cahnged all my weights over to this, I hate wrapping up decoys, and this way I clip a dozen to a carribeaner and am done with it! Ssssoooo much faster when ya deal with 5-6 dozen decoys!
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby 2500hdon37s » Wed Nov 16, 2011 6:45 pm

grizz18 wrote:
2500hdon37s wrote:why not just hit up the 4oz egg sinker mold and make some and do a Rig' em right style? much better IMO


I have no use for the rig em right. 90% of the water I hunt is too deep.

how deep are we talkin?
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby BBK » Wed Nov 16, 2011 8:39 pm

rig-em rights are freaking awesome if you hunt 4' of water or under.. but I'm in the same boat as the other guy, most of my hunting is in 10-15' of water. Straps and j-hooks are the only way to go.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby WF1 » Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:19 pm

BBK wrote:If it wasnt you, I apologize. But someone posted the same method using a mold exactly like that and said they dunked the whole mold.. maybe I can find it.

Edit: I found it, here you go.

WI River Widow Maker wrote:Simple solution! Take a chunk of 2 x 4 and a Dremel tool (if you don't have one, I guarantee someone you know does). Carve a couple into the wood about 1/4 to 3/8 deep. When done, just drill out the holes for tying your line.
It works awesome!!!! You can make about 3 dozen per wood mold. Hard oak wood works even better if you can get your hands on some, but it's harder to carve. I made a bunch this year and they are amazing. Cooling time will be a little longer. You will need to poor cold water over the wood. After doing that and popping out the weights the wood will be wet. MAKE SURE WHEN YOU POOR MORE LEAD INTO THE WET MOLD THAT YOU POOR SLOWLY, PAUSING IF NECESSARY!!!!! The lead is so dense that it will trap the moisture underneath causing it to boil then eventually burp. If you poor it all at once it will splatter molten lead everywhere!!!! You don't want to get hit by that!! Again this only will happen if you poor very quickly. Pooring slow allows the moisture to steam off and evaporate, not boil.

Cheapest way to get those weights and you will be surprised how professionaly they actually look.


Wow, I can't even fathom pouring sinkers like this. Even the smallest drop of water makes the lead pop. Pouring lead can be extremely dangerous and we always make sure to take our time and use the utmost caution when pouring them, can't stress it enough for people who are new to sinker making.

I might give the rig em right method a try. I was sick of the strap anchors and wrappin em around the heads of the decoys. I started doing the J mold to protect the decoy paint, but when they're in a bag they'll get beat up just as much as the rig em right method.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby 2500hdon37s » Thu Nov 17, 2011 1:09 pm

BBK wrote:rig-em rights are freaking awesome if you hunt 4' of water or under.. but I'm in the same boat as the other guy, most of my hunting is in 10-15' of water. Straps and j-hooks are the only way to go.

all my rigs are 6ft
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby grizz18 » Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:18 am

2500hdon37s wrote:
BBK wrote:rig-em rights are freaking awesome if you hunt 4' of water or under.. but I'm in the same boat as the other guy, most of my hunting is in 10-15' of water. Straps and j-hooks are the only way to go.

all my rigs are 6ft


Im in mostly 10+ feet. The wood ducks creeks are 25-30ft on low tide :eek:

I hunt some shallower water, but if I used the rig'ems it would limit my use of the decoy to a specific location. Truse me I only hunted shallow water, I would go that route. I've used them and they are amazing...I just dont have the water for it.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby snapshotmd » Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:24 pm

The way they make shot is to have the molten lead drip at a certain rate and height into a bucket of water. So the point is, dropping the molded piece of lead into water can't be all that dangerous, if it is.

Could someone tell me the dimensions of the 8 oz and 4 oz J-weights? This way I'll know how big of a mold to make?
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby BBK » Sun Nov 20, 2011 5:03 pm

snapshotmd wrote:The way they make shot is to have the molten lead drip at a certain rate and height into a bucket of water. So the point is, dropping the molded piece of lead into water can't be all that dangerous, if it is.

Could someone tell me the dimensions of the 8 oz and 4 oz J-weights? This way I'll know how big of a mold to make?


That is completely false. They drop it into coolant, anti-freeze, or diesel gas. Dropping a drop of lead into water goes bang, unless its cooled to the point it wont react with the water.

Trust me, if you drop lead into water, it will explode all over you causing 2nd and 3rd degree burns. There is a picture on tackle-underground.com of a person that was pouring lead when a drop of water fell into his lead pot, it splattered out and burned his face so bad he had to go to the ER's burn center.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby KYDUCKKILLA » Tue Nov 29, 2011 3:12 pm

We just made 4 dozen weights for our river rigs. We took coke cans cut the top off mixed up some quickcrete, poured it in. Then took 9 gauge wire and bent the edges to hang on the concrete. Perfect weight and no edges to grab brush under the water.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby goodkarmarising » Tue Nov 29, 2011 3:21 pm

I"m gonna have to keep the link to the stretch cord...thanks for posting that one up.
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby aboz » Thu Dec 01, 2011 1:22 pm

Cheapest way I have discovered of weighting deeks is to by the coil steelhead/salmon lead. cut it to size and attach to surgical cord then to line. Works great
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Re: Do it yourself weights

Postby mudpack » Thu Dec 01, 2011 6:01 pm

snapshotmd wrote: So the point is, dropping the molded piece of lead into water can't be all that dangerous, if it is.


You are thinking wrong; it's pouring MOLTEN lead into wet molds that produces an instant steam explosion.

Dropping hot solidified lead into water doesn't produce anything that will hurt you.

Remember your college science chemistry classes? You never pour water into acid, always acid into water. Same thing.
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