Wader repair

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Wader repair

Postby gpschewe » Sun Sep 15, 2013 3:34 pm

Hey guys I am looking for a product that was in the ducks unlimited mag a while back. It was a new product to fix waders. My cousin is looking at a new way to patch them as it seems every pair he buys he destroys them lol

Someone has to know what I am talking about right?
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Re: Wader repair

Postby cnc123 » Mon Sep 16, 2013 6:05 am

I don't get the DU Magazine, but is the product you are looking for SG-20? Cabelas sells it. $20.00.
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Re: Wader repair

Postby gpschewe » Mon Sep 16, 2013 6:11 am

I Think That's It. Thanks
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Re: Wader repair

Postby rustychev » Fri Sep 20, 2013 6:23 am

if you use it let us know how it works. I have always used aquaseal but it cures to slow for me.
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Re: Wader repair

Postby Seymore » Tue Sep 24, 2013 2:35 am

I bought some a week or so ago to repair some early season Lacrosse waders for teal hunting. It works very well. It is important to note that surface prep is just as important with this as Aquaseal. The surface should be wiped down with rubbing alcohol, then roughed up with a wire brush to 1/2 inch on either side of defect, then the product applied to 1/2 inch of defect. It sets in 1 minute and cures in 1 hour. I believe it is a little stronger than the Aquaseal but that is just a very early opinion. It's very expensive for the amount given.
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Re: Wader repair

Postby ksgoosekillr » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:32 pm

let me tell you something on this topic. There are two types of waders, those that leak and those that will leak. I just recently "tried" to repair the boots on a pair of lacrosse brush tuff extremes. HEre the process I used. First I used rubbing alocohol to wipe down the entire boot. then I scuffed up the boot with sandpaper. NExt I applied a coat of 3m 5200 marine sealant and let that cure. Next went on a coat of shoe goo (after a lot of reading I chose this over aqual seal). Lasttly a coat of the rubber spray like you would use on a electrical work. Each coat covered the entire boot and was given time to cure. IN the end they looked like brand new boots. I was planning to take gorilla tape and apply that over everything above as a security measure because that stuff will stick to anything. I chose to skip that last step. VERY FIRST HUN walking through a flooded marsh, and the vegetation ripped off areas all the way to the rubber and they leaked like I hadn't done a thing to them. Im going to wrap them in gorilla tape and see what happens. I now own a new pair of waders and should have never wasted any money trying to repair the boot an area that flexes a lot and see the most abuse. Hope this post saves someone some money
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Re: Wader repair

Postby cluckmeister » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:57 pm

Wader hole repair and seam repair are to different animals. Holes if not to big can be repaired with good success but repairing leaking seams is iffy at best . After getting the jewels wet twice during Teal Season I ordered a pair of Rogers Tough Mans. I have no desire to get things wet and Cold and am not going to take a chance my seam repair works, until next teal season that is.
If you're there for the limit, you're there for the wrong reason
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Re: Wader repair

Postby JoJer » Mon Oct 07, 2013 1:50 pm

I wear Cabellas GII's breathables. I've had three pairs. I have new pair that are working OK. I have an old pair that are mostly Aqua Seal on the inseams and a couple of small holes. I had pair that leaked when almost new same place-on the inseams- and were returned and warranted for the new set. I buy these on the large side so I can layer under them when it's cold. The extra room makes them rub on the inseams, then, they leak. Then it's time for Aqua seal, which I prefer over Shoe Goo. Shoe Goo gets crumbly with age, though I do use it for shoe repairs, but not hole repair.
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Re: Wader repair

Postby Rick Hall » Mon Oct 07, 2013 2:28 pm

ksgoosekillr wrote:let me tell you something on this topic. There are two types of waders, those that leak and those that will leak. I just recently "tried" to repair the boots on a pair of lacrosse brush tuff extremes. HEre the process I used. First I used rubbing alocohol to wipe down the entire boot. then I scuffed up the boot with sandpaper. NExt I applied a coat of 3m 5200 marine sealant and let that cure. Next went on a coat of shoe goo (after a lot of reading I chose this over aqual seal). Lasttly a coat of the rubber spray like you would use on a electrical work. Each coat covered the entire boot and was given time to cure. IN the end they looked like brand new boots. I was planning to take gorilla tape and apply that over everything above as a security measure because that stuff will stick to anything. I chose to skip that last step. VERY FIRST HUN walking through a flooded marsh, and the vegetation ripped off areas all the way to the rubber and they leaked like I hadn't done a thing to them. Im going to wrap them in gorilla tape and see what happens. I now own a new pair of waders and should have never wasted any money trying to repair the boot an area that flexes a lot and see the most abuse. Hope this post saves someone some money


Might should have stopped with the 3M 5200. I practically live in rubber boots for good reason and have never had it let go or split, even after a couple years of hard use. Don't know if your rubbing alcohol was detrimental (I prep with acetone) or what else may have gone awry like not getting it down into flex cracks. Do know 3M 5200 is the bomb for boot repair of tough places like flex points.
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