Steps to painting a shotgun (dial up users beware)

Share your questions on all makes and models of shotguns. Please post chokes questions in the SRBC forum

Moderators: Quack Wacker NC, MM

Postby steph87 » Sun Jun 01, 2008 4:11 am

hello
the latest pictures of my rifle
bye
steph
Image

Image

Image
steph87
hunter
 
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 12:27 pm
Location: france


Postby stumpjumper » Wed Jun 04, 2008 10:34 am

Dang guys, you`ll are doing some nice work there. I`m really impressed with the guns. Keep it upand have a great season!!!!!

STUMP
'Lord, hold our troops in your loving hands. Protect them as they protect us. Bless them and their families for the selfless acts they perform for us in our time of need. Amen..'
User avatar
stumpjumper
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 2619
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 9:03 pm
Location: NC

Postby hunter121390 » Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:44 pm

the guns look great.

painting atleast one of my guns is on my list of things to do this summer.
If it flies it dies
Take em'
"My guns will be pulled out of my cold dead hands, with the bolts locked back, the barrels smoking, and a pile of empty magazines and brass at my feet. "
"kill em' all, let God sort em out."
User avatar
hunter121390
hunter
 
Posts: 309
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2008 11:03 am
Location: watertown, wi

Postby Blackdogs » Thu Jun 19, 2008 7:27 am

What kind of time is it taking for the entire process? Actual time sanding/priming/painting/finishing, not wait time, but actual work time...

I think instead of selling my 11-87 I'm gonna do this to it!!! I will ask, I have pitting in the barrel, this is an all black shotgun, how much do I need to sand? Until I can see NO pitting whatsoever?

Also, are you spraying the trigger and if so, do I need to worry about any spray paint or finish getting into the trigger assembly/safety?

I noticed the tip of the first gun had tape around it, did you do that separate from everything else?
Blackdogs
hunter
 
Posts: 258
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:02 am
Location: Wisconsin

Postby harvey1b » Sun Jul 13, 2008 8:25 pm

Here is my submission. Thankyou stump!! This was really easy and I can't believe how good my gun looks. I would have never figured that out on my own. I am very excited!

:cheers: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :drinking:

Image

Image

Image
Image
User avatar
harvey1b
hunter
 
Posts: 2862
Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2004 4:11 pm
Location: upstate ny

Postby cusportsman » Fri Jul 18, 2008 12:40 pm

any tips for painting a benelli supernova? the receiver feels like it has a plastic coating on it, so should i still sand it?

should i still sand the synthetic stock?

the krylon fusion paint says it's good for plastic with no primer or sanding
cusportsman
hunter
 
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 9:19 pm
Location: SC

Postby Canned Heat » Fri Jul 18, 2008 9:53 pm

Blackdogs wrote:What kind of time is it taking for the entire process? Actual time sanding/priming/painting/finishing, not wait time, but actual work time...

I think instead of selling my 11-87 I'm gonna do this to it!!! I will ask, I have pitting in the barrel, this is an all black shotgun, how much do I need to sand? Until I can see NO pitting whatsoever?

Also, are you spraying the trigger and if so, do I need to worry about any spray paint or finish getting into the trigger assembly/safety?

I noticed the tip of the first gun had tape around it, did you do that separate from everything else?


I didn't go through "the reeds" process like Stump and some others and had mine done in the course of a 4 day weekend...start to finish. I'm guessing 7 to 10 days (or more), but those guys would have to confirm that. If the weather is good and your paint is drying between coats under the right conditions, it's all a matter of how much time you can spend on it. Tear down, masking and stripping took the most actual hands-on time for me.

Try it...it's one of the coolest things you'll do.

I didn't do my trigger guard and assembly because I thought it may wear at those points and didn't want to gunk up the safety button on mine.

NICE WORK HARVEY!!!!
Reality is a great place....I just wouldn't want to live there.
User avatar
Canned Heat
hunter
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 1:37 pm
Location: West Bend, WI

Postby stumpjumper » Sat Jul 19, 2008 8:04 am

harvey1b, SWEET JOB THERE SIR!!!!!!!!:bow: :bow: You did an amazing job and I hope she gives you many years of service.

Blackdogs wrote:What kind of time is it taking for the entire process? Actual time sanding/priming/painting/finishing, not wait time, but actual work time...

I think instead of selling my 11-87 I'm gonna do this to it!!! I will ask, I have pitting in the barrel, this is an all black shotgun, how much do I need to sand? Until I can see NO pitting whatsoever?

Also, are you spraying the trigger and if so, do I need to worry about any spray paint or finish getting into the trigger assembly/safety?

I noticed the tip of the first gun had tape around it, did you do that separate from everything else?


The prep work ( sanding, taping etc ) normally takes 5 to 6 hours. But I`m anal retentive and want thing perfect, so give or take a bit. As for the pitting in the barrel, as long as there is no rust you will be good just scuffing it up. All rust must be removed! I do spray the trigger gaurd and the trigger assy itself. And then I do add a reed here and there on it. Just make sure to tape as much area off as possible. On the safety, I apply grease to the working area of the saety, that way you can wipe the grease and the paint off when your done.

STUMP
'Lord, hold our troops in your loving hands. Protect them as they protect us. Bless them and their families for the selfless acts they perform for us in our time of need. Amen..'
User avatar
stumpjumper
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 2619
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 9:03 pm
Location: NC

Postby stumpjumper » Sat Jul 19, 2008 8:08 am

cusportsman wrote:any tips for painting a benelli supernova? the receiver feels like it has a plastic coating on it, so should i still sand it?

should i still sand the synthetic stock?

the krylon fusion paint says it's good for plastic with no primer or sanding


Cusportman,
Yes sand the reciever. If it is plastic it will probably raise up after the first coat. If this happens simply sand it back down and spray it again. Some syntetics do this.
Krylon fusin says on the can that primer is not necassary BUT the automotive grade primer acts as a overall protectent to help eliminate any rusting and it helps to protect the metal IF you chip the paint from dropping the gun. So by all means primer the gun

STUMP
'Lord, hold our troops in your loving hands. Protect them as they protect us. Bless them and their families for the selfless acts they perform for us in our time of need. Amen..'
User avatar
stumpjumper
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 2619
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 9:03 pm
Location: NC

Postby cusportsman » Sat Jul 19, 2008 8:32 am

i plan to primer the metal parts, was just unsure about the stock and receiver

the receiver seems to have that duracoat finish on it or something
cusportsman
hunter
 
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 9:19 pm
Location: SC

Postby ohsay » Sat Jul 19, 2008 12:18 pm

Hey guys. I've painted one before. An old 870 Express that needed a facelift. Turned out fine and has worked well. I'm thinking of doing another one though and I have a question for anyone who can answer.

Have you had any trouble with the paint getting too hot and cracking or anything under (or after more likely) extreme shooting?

The semi-auto I'm thinking about painting gets used A LOT. I even use it in speed clays competitions sometimes. I'm just concerned that running shells through it that quickly could cause problems. My barrels get seriously HOT. Anyone had or foresee any troubles like that? STUMP?
say what?
User avatar
ohsay
hunter
 
Posts: 3206
Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:53 pm
Location: NE

Postby stumpjumper » Sat Jul 19, 2008 12:43 pm

Now that is a good question right there. I`ve never heated up the barrel from shooting that much before. So I really can`t say. I would think that you shouldn`t have any problems due to the nature of Krylon paint. It is designed to expand and contract due to the temps that duck hunters encounter. I painted my whole boat the same process. I would think that all the bumping and grinding it took and never cracked, split, or spidered that you won`t have a problem. It`s even been so hot out in the summer heat that when you touched the boat it would burn soft hands or the back of your thighs. As long as it doesn`t get so hot that when you pour water on the barrel it turns to steam.

STUMP
'Lord, hold our troops in your loving hands. Protect them as they protect us. Bless them and their families for the selfless acts they perform for us in our time of need. Amen..'
User avatar
stumpjumper
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 2619
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 9:03 pm
Location: NC

Postby ohsay » Sat Jul 19, 2008 6:13 pm

Well I may just have to try it to find out. I think it might be a problem (I have scars from said 'hot' barrels, so they'd definitely make steam), but it's a cheap gun so it's probably the best one to try it on.
say what?
User avatar
ohsay
hunter
 
Posts: 3206
Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:53 pm
Location: NE

Postby Blackdogs » Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:41 am

Thanks for the replies guys! I just wanted to make sure I have enough days of good weather in the forecast for drying!



Harvey that paint job looks SWEET!
Blackdogs
hunter
 
Posts: 258
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:02 am
Location: Wisconsin

Postby harvey1b » Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:30 am

thanks guys, I even surprised myself.

You shouldn't have much trouble with drying time if you do it on a hot, dry day. Mine was dry and ready for the next coat in less than an hour. I had it finished in an afternoon and the next morning. After that clear coat sets up it is rock solid, but it takes a few days to get really hard so give it time.

As for the hot barrel, I shot a round of skeet and then a round of 50 sporting clays on a hot day with my newly painted barrel. This wasn't speed shooting or anything like that, but the barrel got hot to the touch and the paint was not affected as near as I can tell.
User avatar
harvey1b
hunter
 
Posts: 2862
Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2004 4:11 pm
Location: upstate ny

Postby grunt_doc » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:07 am

Hey Harv..

I'm on my way over with all my guns and some rattle cans! That thing looks great!

Doc
Texting is just a polite way to communicate whilst taking a dump.
User avatar
grunt_doc
hunter
 
Posts: 753
Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:57 pm
Location: Wells, ME

Postby harvey1b » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:12 am

Bring 'em over. It is a lot of fun.
User avatar
harvey1b
hunter
 
Posts: 2862
Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2004 4:11 pm
Location: upstate ny

Postby ohsay » Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:33 am

harvey1b wrote:As for the hot barrel, I shot a round of skeet and then a round of 50 sporting clays on a hot day with my newly painted barrel. This wasn't speed shooting or anything like that, but the barrel got hot to the touch and the paint was not affected as near as I can tell.


Well I'll be starting the clear coats this afternoon, so in a few days I'll go put a couple hundred rounds through it in five minutes or so and let everyone know how it holds up.
say what?
User avatar
ohsay
hunter
 
Posts: 3206
Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:53 pm
Location: NE

Postby ohsay » Sun Sep 14, 2008 1:30 pm

I forgot to post in here with the results. When I finished the gun I waited a week before taking it out and trying to ruin the paint. On the clear acrylic it says handle in one hour, chip and crack resistant in 7 days, so I thought I'd give it a fair chance. Put a 150 rounds through it in just a few minutes and although it seemed a little tackier to the touch, it held up well. Haven't noticed any cracks in it on the barrel or anything. So.. I guess that answers that question.

Oh, I took a picture with my phone yesterday for this thread too. Didn't want to be the only guy without a picture.

It's an SPR 453

Image
say what?
User avatar
ohsay
hunter
 
Posts: 3206
Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:53 pm
Location: NE

Postby stumpjumper » Sun Sep 14, 2008 2:42 pm

Nice paint job there Ohsay. Looks like it will do the job real well.

As for the paint holding up under extreme conditions, it`s nice to see you give her a run though. I have had mine out on dove hunts where the sun baking down on it makes it hot plus doing alot of shooting. I have not had a problem with it. But nice someone decided to shoot a crap load of rounds and see how the barrel held up.
If anyone wants to ask next about how it holds up in freezing conditions, I can tell you, I`ve had mine frozen solid after she took a little bath on a 20 degree day. No problems with the paint becoming brittle and chipping off.

STUMP
'Lord, hold our troops in your loving hands. Protect them as they protect us. Bless them and their families for the selfless acts they perform for us in our time of need. Amen..'
User avatar
stumpjumper
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 2619
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 9:03 pm
Location: NC

Cleaning before I start?

Postby HugoBox » Thu Sep 18, 2008 1:22 pm

Stump,
I finally got off my arse and started last night. Have the gun taken apart and have a bit more sanding to do. I know you say to use thinner to do the final cleaning. Is there a specific kind you'd recommend. I have the kind with mineral spirits and it seemed to leave almost and oily residue. If I just wipe it down with a rag am I good to go with the primer?
I'm pretty excited to do this!
Thanks - erik
HugoBox
hunter
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 2:00 pm
Location: Hugo, Minnesota

Re: Cleaning before I start?

Postby stumpjumper » Thu Sep 18, 2008 5:25 pm

HugoBox wrote:Stump,
I finally got off my arse and started last night. Have the gun taken apart and have a bit more sanding to do. I know you say to use thinner to do the final cleaning. Is there a specific kind you'd recommend. I have the kind with mineral spirits and it seemed to leave almost and oily residue. If I just wipe it down with a rag am I good to go with the primer?
I'm pretty excited to do this!
Thanks - erik


No, if your cleaner is leaving an oily residue DO NOT USE IT!!!! The primer will not stick. When you wipe down the gun with the cleaner, it should dry and leave whitish swirls indicating the oil has been removed. I would get some thinner or at best some rubbing alcohol. Pour some in your hand as if you were washing your hands. Once it dries your hands should be chalky and have whiteish patches indicating the removale of oil. Don`t scrimp here Hugo.
Best of luck to you and post up when done

STUMP
'Lord, hold our troops in your loving hands. Protect them as they protect us. Bless them and their families for the selfless acts they perform for us in our time of need. Amen..'
User avatar
stumpjumper
Forum & State Moderator
 
Posts: 2619
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 9:03 pm
Location: NC

Postby ohsay » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:52 pm

I'm thinking about doing one of my p-350's. Anyone tried any other kinds of paint? I'd really like to change the color scheme a bit. Krylon only sells that specific paint in khaki, brown, olive, and black. The green is hard to miss in a finished product (there's absolutely no green around here during the waterfowl seasons), and the brown is almost a red-brown, and really dark. Think one of their other paint lines would work for light duty? That'd really open up the color options. I've used Parker sprays on boats and other hunting gear. http://www.parkercoatings.com/decoy.html They have better colors for around here. Any thoughts? I don't shoot my pumps like I do my autos. They don't get very hot.
say what?
User avatar
ohsay
hunter
 
Posts: 3206
Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:53 pm
Location: NE

I finally took the plunge

Postby HugoBox » Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:37 pm

Stump -
I finally got to work on my Browning Gold 12 gauge.
Your instructions were great and easy to follow. I like the finish I ended up with, definitely the second side is better than the first!! :wink:

It ended up a bit darker than I would have liked (too much overspray) but I'm going to use it as is this year and probably redo it for next year - it was a really fun project. I added some brown grass to it and its okay, but like I said, next time it will look a lot better.
Assuming I'm smart enough to post pictures - there are a few below. Sorry for the poor picture quality -- phone doesn't take em so well.
-erik

Image

Image

Image

Image
Last edited by HugoBox on Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
HugoBox
hunter
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 2:00 pm
Location: Hugo, Minnesota

Postby mydogearl » Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:22 am

I repainted my 935 because i didn't prep it well enough the first time and it was chipping too easily and it just wasn't up to my standards(page 2 has the first paint job). I finished it this time with a different style (similar to max-4) and a better prep job.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
User avatar
mydogearl
hunter
 
Posts: 392
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 8:35 pm
Location: southern OHIO

PreviousNext

Return to Shotgun Forum

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests