questions for brass loaders

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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby Quacker-Wacker » Thu Jan 23, 2014 7:33 am

Looks to me like, with everyone's info and good advise, you should be good to go. All you need now is a credit card with lot's of room! :biggrin:
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby goosepit2007 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:32 am

lostknife4 wrote:Buy a LEE deprimer pin punch and base unit to deprime the cases before you clean them so you don't have dirty cases in your dies. I know they made them to deprime military hulls but not sure if the make them for 6mm, if not just turn the pin punch down in a lathe so it will work.
Lost

here it is and it works great, this is teh modern version that works great for cal up to the 550 base, like lost said keeps grime out of the sizing dies.


http://www.midwayusa.com/product/136543 ... apping-die
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby jehler » Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:02 pm

Damn, I was thinking I was gonna come out of this only $350 lighter!
Now I'm rethinking if I even have the darned bench space, wonder how momma will feel about moving out of her office?
Buy it, use it, break it, fix it,
Trash it, change it, mail - upgrade it,
Charge it, point it, zoom it, press it,
Snap it, work it, quick - erase it,
Write it, cut it, paste it, save it,
Load it, check it, quick - rewrite it,
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby BT Justice » Thu Jan 23, 2014 4:07 pm

jehler wrote:Damn, I was thinking I was gonna come out of this only $350 lighter!
Now I'm rethinking if I even have the darned bench space, wonder how momma will feel about moving out of her office?


Wait until you get to the point of discussing with her you need a 30x40 out building to store all of your goodies, which unfortunately is the point I'm at now. Luckily she is all for getting all the crap out of the house and storage units.

Trust me buy it as you need, over the years your gonna accumulate more than what you need, I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to use up 8000 16 ga wads, but I got them if I need them... :lol3:
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby lostknife4 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:19 pm

8000 16 ga wads !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! RFLMAO
Lost
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby BT Justice » Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:43 pm

lostknife4 wrote:8000 16 ga wads !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! RFLMAO
Lost

Wellllllllllllllllll, I got a deal about 12 years ago on 6000 WAA16 wads in the original packaging, so I had to buy them. Add that to the 16 ga Remington, Cheddite, and Gulandi wads I've accumulated and it's quite a few large boxes. That's just the 16 ga stuff
The there's hull's and ...well you get it..... :thumbsup:
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby jehler » Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:50 pm

BT Justice wrote:
jehler wrote:Damn, I was thinking I was gonna come out of this only $350 lighter!
Now I'm rethinking if I even have the darned bench space, wonder how momma will feel about moving out of her office?


Wait until you get to the point of discussing with her you need a 30x40 out building to store all of your goodies, which unfortunately is the point I'm at now. Luckily she is all for getting all the crap out of the house and storage units.

Trust me buy it as you need, over the years your gonna accumulate more than what you need, I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to use up 8000 16 ga wads, but I got them if I need them... :lol3:

I have 8 boats....
And not one of them is a woman friendly pontoon! I've already broken her down lol
Buy it, use it, break it, fix it,
Trash it, change it, mail - upgrade it,
Charge it, point it, zoom it, press it,
Snap it, work it, quick - erase it,
Write it, cut it, paste it, save it,
Load it, check it, quick - rewrite it,
Plug it, play it, burn it
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby lostknife4 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:03 pm

jehler wrote:
BT Justice wrote:
jehler wrote:Damn, I was thinking I was gonna come out of this only $350 lighter!
Now I'm rethinking if I even have the darned bench space, wonder how momma will feel about moving out of her office?


Wait until you get to the point of discussing with her you need a 30x40 out building to store all of your goodies, which unfortunately is the point I'm at now. Luckily she is all for getting all the crap out of the house and storage units.

Trust me buy it as you need, over the years your gonna accumulate more than what you need, I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to use up 8000 16 ga wads, but I got them if I need them... :lol3:

I have 8 boats....
And not one of them is a woman friendly pontoon! I've already broken her down lol


And just what did that cost ya? I've 5 boats and a barge and it cost me plenty LOL
Lost
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby jehler » Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:07 pm

Oh just a little here and a little there ;)
Buy it, use it, break it, fix it,
Trash it, change it, mail - upgrade it,
Charge it, point it, zoom it, press it,
Snap it, work it, quick - erase it,
Write it, cut it, paste it, save it,
Load it, check it, quick - rewrite it,
Plug it, play it, burn it
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby jake j » Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:06 pm

All good advise and consider what action rifles you have. If bolts or single shots you may want neck sizer dies. They leave the body and shoulder alone and just resize necks so the shells custom fit the chamber of that particular gun. After 1 firing with new cases you won't be using that full length resizer anymore anyways. If autos you full length resize after each firing and may need a small base resizer die for caliber... it resizes the base in picky autos. Another great tool is a cartridge overall length gauge. You buy an individual custom case that screws into the end of it then put you bullet of choice on it then chamber it. Then push the gauges' inner rod up until bullet touches rifling. Then lock it in place and remove. Once out you tune the bullet back off that rifling a hair and start r&d on the range until your bullets are all in one nice hole on that target :thumbsup: . If your gun has a detachable mag then obviously just load it as long as mag allows and chamber one then remove and see if there are rifling marks on ogive... if so back off if not try that first.
PS I don't clean my cases and they last longer than the marketers of that cleaning crap would have you believe... if you keep your gun clean and wipe those brass off you will be fine. Always chamfer primer pockets inside and out and case mouth. Trim them all to trim to length for caliber and watch them after every shot. They will lengthen considerably with each shot if you run them max loaded. A neck turner is also helpful if you wanna shoot far. Any help needed just ask. Jake J.
Coots are the ugly bar whores of duck hunting... they're easy, plentiful, taste and smell just as good as any, and are always there when your itching for some action. Everyone secretly loves to blast em but only the bold take pride.
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby goosepit2007 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:47 pm

jake j wrote:All good advise and consider what action rifles you have. If bolts or single shots you may want neck sizer dies. They leave the body and shoulder alone and just resize necks so the shells custom fit the chamber of that particular gun. After 1 firing with new cases you won't be using that full length resizer anymore anyways. If autos you full length resize after each firing and may need a small base resizer die for caliber... it resizes the base in picky autos. Another great tool is a cartridge overall length gauge. You buy an individual custom case that screws into the end of it then put you bullet of choice on it then chamber it. Then push the gauges' inner rod up until bullet touches rifling. Then lock it in place and remove. Once out you tune the bullet back off that rifling a hair and start r&d on the range until your bullets are all in one nice hole on that target :thumbsup: . If your gun has a detachable mag then obviously just load it as long as mag allows and chamber one then remove and see if there are rifling marks on ogive... if so back off if not try that first.
PS I don't clean my cases and they last longer than the marketers of that cleaning crap would have you believe... if you keep your gun clean and wipe those brass off you will be fine. Always chamfer primer pockets inside and out and case mouth. Trim them all to trim to length for caliber and watch them after every shot. They will lengthen considerably with each shot if you run them max loaded. A neck turner is also helpful if you wanna shoot far. Any help needed just ask. Jake J.


neck sizing only is for when you only have one rifle per caliber!!!!
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby BT Justice » Fri Jan 24, 2014 3:33 am

lostknife4 wrote:
jehler wrote:
BT Justice wrote:
jehler wrote:Damn, I was thinking I was gonna come out of this only $350 lighter!
Now I'm rethinking if I even have the darned bench space, wonder how momma will feel about moving out of her office?


Wait until you get to the point of discussing with her you need a 30x40 out building to store all of your goodies, which unfortunately is the point I'm at now. Luckily she is all for getting all the crap out of the house and storage units.

Trust me buy it as you need, over the years your gonna accumulate more than what you need, I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to use up 8000 16 ga wads, but I got them if I need them... :lol3:

I have 8 boats....
And not one of them is a woman friendly pontoon! I've already broken her down lol


And just what did that cost ya? I've 5 boats and a barge and it cost me plenty LOL
Lost

A good friend of mine told me what boat was the abbreviation for
Bring
On
Another
Thousand $$$$$$$$
:yes:
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby jake j » Fri Jan 24, 2014 8:58 am

I have 2 280 Remington's that I neck size for. Same die does both. I do however have 2 bullet seating dies so I need not switch the settings ever. Just make sure you label your ammo appropriately. I use a black permanent marker on the tip of my tsx bullets and also on the primers for one... and store them in their own box labeled with the guns serial number. Organization is a reloaders best friend. I highly recommend neck sizing if you are shooting a bolt or break. With that being only difference in the same load in same rifle it can make your groups go from good to great. I shoot all my first run fl resized brass as target ammo at long distance on windy days to practice doping wind. If it works with FL sized it works better with neck sized :beer: that way all my hunting rounds are as good as they get. Jake J.
Coots are the ugly bar whores of duck hunting... they're easy, plentiful, taste and smell just as good as any, and are always there when your itching for some action. Everyone secretly loves to blast em but only the bold take pride.
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby jehler » Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:30 am

We are loading for two guns, my sons Remington model 7 in rem 6mm and my Remington 700 in .308 winchester. We have a few other rifles but none of them see much time in the field or in front of a target. So explain this neck sizing deal, I'm guessing i would want regular dies as well as just a neck sizer?
Buy it, use it, break it, fix it,
Trash it, change it, mail - upgrade it,
Charge it, point it, zoom it, press it,
Snap it, work it, quick - erase it,
Write it, cut it, paste it, save it,
Load it, check it, quick - rewrite it,
Plug it, play it, burn it
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby lostknife4 » Sun Jan 26, 2014 9:36 am

jehler wrote:We are loading for two guns, my sons Remington model 7 in rem 6mm and my Remington 700 in .308 winchester. We have a few other rifles but none of them see much time in the field or in front of a target. So explain this neck sizing deal, I'm guessing i would want regular dies as well as just a neck sizer?


IMHO you don't need a separate neck sizing die because you can just back off your normal FLS die a bit and accomplish the same thing. Just carbon up the neck of the case with a candle and run it through the die after backing the die off a turn and you can easily see the spot the neck sizing stops so just keep it a bit above the shoulder and you have just neck sized the hull. All cases should be full sized first and then after firing IN YOUR SPECIFIC rifle the choice is yours to neck size or not. Not every chamber is the same! In your case you are not target shooting with a 1000 yard target rifle so all that nice super target kind of stuff is not necessary at this point. I like the elevated expander button on the Bonanza dies and maybe there are others using this same technology because the elevated button expands the inside of the case mouth when the press has it's most mechanical advantage and so you barely feel the expanding operation, not the case with dies that have expander buttons at the outer or lower position on the decapping rod. You also don't need a super duty press, a toggle linkage bare bones press will do everything you want to do at this point and at a very reasonable price, it can be used later on as a dedicated decapping press when and if you get a Rockchucker or Co-Ax press of some kind.
Lost
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby jake j » Sun Jan 26, 2014 7:47 pm

Lost has explained it nicely I've honestly never used the FL resizer to neck size only. Heard of it but I've also been told when I started with this loading stuff as a kid that it won't just size the neck only. I don't know is a rcbs die is different than a bonanza and I don't even know if what I heard long ago is true. I just bought the neck sizer die and went to town. The reason I bring it up is because on some rifles the reamer that cut the chamber is getting dull and the chamber will not be cut the same as x number of guns ago... sloppy chambers cause more expansion of the shell than tight chambers. Some guns it matters a lot more than others. I've a .222 rem that barely expands at all and an 8x57mm that is excessive. Without the necker in that 8mm the groups aren't good and with it they are half the size. Granted that 8mm is a war gun and doesn't have a matching bolt either and has about as much headspace length as is probably usable without the head of the brass stretching right off at firing! Haha.
Something else to consider is if you've accumulated a lifetime supply of once fired shells out of that gun then a neck sizer is all you need and a seater die. If you ever need more cases buy a box of factory of just load the new bulk brass without FL resizing it. I always resize new brass fully but I know guys that don't and it works. Jake J.
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby jehler » Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:35 pm

thanks guys, been out of my head busy plowing snow, got the basics ordered, when it arrives I'll let you know how things are going :thumbsup:
Buy it, use it, break it, fix it,
Trash it, change it, mail - upgrade it,
Charge it, point it, zoom it, press it,
Snap it, work it, quick - erase it,
Write it, cut it, paste it, save it,
Load it, check it, quick - rewrite it,
Plug it, play it, burn it
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby jehler » Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:45 pm

One more thing, for .308, 6mm
Is there a primer and powder you'd recommended over others?
Buy it, use it, break it, fix it,
Trash it, change it, mail - upgrade it,
Charge it, point it, zoom it, press it,
Snap it, work it, quick - erase it,
Write it, cut it, paste it, save it,
Load it, check it, quick - rewrite it,
Plug it, play it, burn it
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby lostknife4 » Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:07 pm

jehler be prepared for a deluge of opinions on that one lol.
A lot depends on the intended purpose and the ranges, I don't have either but I do load on occasion for the 308. In the 30 caliber 308,30-06 and 300 Win Mag I use 165 Nosler partition bullets because they are only used for Deer and Moose, same with my 375H&H Nosler partition again but 270 grain but it is used exclusively for Moose.
So I would say start with your bullets for the purpose you intend to use them for then let me know and I will search my data base (Handloader and Rifle Magazines from issue #1) to see what has worked for people in the past.
Lost
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby BT Justice » Tue Jan 28, 2014 2:08 pm

lostknife4 wrote:jehler be prepared for a deluge of opinions on that one lol.
A lot depends on the intended purpose and the ranges, I don't have either but I do load on occasion for the 308. In the 30 Lost

That's the truth...and your asking about ,308 rounds, that will get you at least 500 different answers and opinions.
Basically you could go crazy try different powders let alone bullet types, I basically cut it down to simple years ago. Winchester 748 works well and is accurate enough for me and was relatively available before we had our major supply scare recently.
Many other powders do work well in .308, some better than 748 but it works for me.
I got a deal on some IMR 4320 a while back, stuff must have been sitting around this gun shop for a LOOOOONG time as it was in DuPont metal cans, told the guy if he would let me crack the tops on all of them and if it still smelled fresh I'd buy it for the price it was originally marked up from, $9 a can. It all came home with me and it makes some really decent .308 loads for the price it was.
6mm I never loaded for but the .243 is IMR 4350 territory for me.
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby lostknife4 » Tue Jan 28, 2014 3:37 pm

I have a few 30 cal tungsten bullets, don't know if there are any Hevi-anything available or steel either for that matter............ LOL
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby 3200 man » Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:04 pm

OH BOY ! Here we go , with loading these like a load of the past ( with a special wad ) these TSS super bullets , you can
go down to a size 22 cal and get 458 results .......Right Bill ..... :thumbsup:

show us a graft....... :lol3:
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby Quacker-Wacker » Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:08 am

I load for the .308 and I've tried all the powders and came to the conclusion that 2 of the more modern powders stand out Hodgdon H4895 and Alliant RL15. These powders do very well with bullet weights from 125gr to 168gr. I usually load 130gr Barnes TTX, Sierra 125gr SP and Sierra 150grSP. Or if you want to go old school, you can't miss with IMR 4064. :wink: Sorry, don't know anything about the 6mm.
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby 3200 man » Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:56 am

I prefer 4350 or 4831 in my 6.5 / 284 and 243 and some of my other rifles , you just got to load-up and see what your
gun likes . Taking the time to understand , what makes a rifle accurate , has more to do with the way the barrel was cut .
A hunting gun is more than likely built to shoot as accurately as you need , under 1 1/2" at 100 yds with factory ammo but ,
a fella that understands reloading for accuracy can close this group down to under a inch . Modern powders and bullets have
come along ways in the last 10 years so , with good case prep , the right primer and the knowledge of knowing what might
be better in your gun , is trying different combinations to see what works best .

It's fun , and when you get that group down under a 1/2 " , you can be proud !
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Re: questions for brass loaders

Postby BT Justice » Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:44 am

Quacker-Wacker wrote:I load for the .308 and I've tried all the powders and came to the conclusion that 2 of the more modern powders stand out Hodgdon H4895 and Alliant RL15. These powders do very well with bullet weights from 125gr to 168gr. I usually load 130gr Barnes TTX, Sierra 125gr SP and Sierra 150grSP. Or if you want to go old school, you can't miss with IMR 4064. :wink: Sorry, don't know anything about the 6mm.

Did you find RL 15 to give a bit high barrel heating, I tried it and it seemed to heat up the barrel a lot more than 748 did
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