how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

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how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby ILgoosehunter12 » Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:14 am

ive got some old Flambeau duck floaters that i cut the keels off of and cut the bottoms out of them. i want to somehow make some sort of stakes or motion stakes for them without having to buy them. what could i use for motion stakes or stakes?
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby freebird134 » Mon Feb 22, 2010 9:40 pm

Spring + wooden dowel?
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby ILgoosehunter12 » Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:11 am

freebird134 wrote:Spring + wooden dowel?




thanks.

i was thinking about wooden dowel rod and a washer. but i doubt they would move.



any more suggestions?
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby tenfingergrip » Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:19 pm

I just finished converting 2 dozen floaters to field mallards. The stakes that I made are from "upside down U shaped" steel rod support legs that political signs are attached to that people place in their yards prior to elections. I cut them 24 inches long, mark the middle and bend them in the shape of a "U" by bending them over a 3/4 inch bolt that is locked upright in a vise. This gives me a 12 inch support stake. Next, take a short "L" piece of the rod ( I use the leftover corners or "L" ninety degree corners of the signs) to weld at the apex of the stake which will be inserted into the hole (5/16") that is drilled thru the back at the balance point of the ex-floater. Clip off the excess of the top of the welded tip so you will only have about a 1/2 inch protruding up thru the mallard back.

After the decoy's keel has been removed by using a utility knife, being careful not to cut thru the bottom of the decoy, cut a narrow (1 inch) rectangular slit in the bottom, 4 to 5 inches long. I drill 4 holes and use a jig saw to cut out from hole to hole. You can probably use a utility knife as well. Find the ballance point by sticking a pencil with eraser up thru the slit til it ballances. This finds you the place to drill the hole(s) for the stake tip(s) to hold up the mallard(s). The stake will be inserted up thru the slit, into the hole and will give a motion range rotation of approx. 30 degrees. You can get more or less rotation motion by either opening or closing the width of the legs to the stake prior to sticking it into the ground. Spray paint the legs flat black.
You can view all the pics here:
http://s766.photobucket.com/albums/xx30 ... om%20Made/

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I went one step further by attaching legs made from orange pneumatic hose found at Harbor Freight. It is just the color of mallard legs. I drilled two small (3/16) holes where the legs would be attached, inserted 1/8 inch elastic cord thru the cut hose and then thru the leg hole, fished out the cord thru the slit, tied a knot in the cord, stuck two short pieces of shishkabob spears (takes up excess space) into the end of the "leg", stretched the cord real tight, cut the cord with enough slack to knot the end. Wallah!, Mallard legs that spring back when used with the stake and fold down when placed on the ground. Make sure cord is stretched to the limit before tying the knot. Also made feet, but that's another story.
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby Erie » Tue Apr 13, 2010 3:48 pm

Tenfingergrip

YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bow: :bow: :bow: I was wanting to do this with my old floaters but wasnt sure how. Thanks for all the information and the great pictures! Just another weekend project to add to the list.
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby tenfingergrip » Tue Apr 13, 2010 6:24 pm

Erie,
Thanks, ..... if you want to make some feet, a "Surf" laundry detergent jug is the right color as seen in the above photo. Just cut out some feet, drill a 1/8 inch hole at the "heel" of the foot, cut from the hole to the back edge of the heel with a pr. of scissors, stretch the elastic out, slide the slit at the heel over the the elastic til it reaches the hole and your foot is attached. (make sure the "ankle" of the leg is trimmed/cut at the proper angle to set the foot parallel to the ground prior to attaching the leg. Also make sure the "cut angle" at the body insures that the legs will be curved towards the front of the deke. Looks better than just straight down or curved backwards. These things really look good and are quite a bit cheaper to make than buying a dozen GHG full bodies for over 200 bucks. I decided to put a half dozen in the classifieds on here to see if they would sell. If not, I'll eBay 'em.
Good luck, and let us see the results
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby Erie » Tue Apr 13, 2010 7:14 pm

Ten,

Did you use some type of stencil to make the feet or did you just free hand some feet?
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby tenfingergrip » Wed Apr 14, 2010 8:30 am

Erie,
I just freehanded the shape on a heavy piece of plastic (a posted sign), cut it out and used that for a template to draw around on the Surf jug. I took an old magic marker & drew in the "bones" in the feet (just for my own satisfaction,.... don't think the ducks care!)

By the way, I remove the feet prior to bagging up the dekes so they won't get lost in the bottom of the bag and put them back on when I'm ready to stake 'em out. Just my preference. You might not want to go to the trouble.

The way I've got the feet fixed, with the elastic cords, you can lay them flat on the ground, as resting, and/or put 'em on the stakes. They'll pop right out and are not affected when bagging.
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby Indaswamp » Wed May 05, 2010 11:15 pm

Awesome idea Ten!! :bow: :bow: Way better than what I had in mind...I'm gonna modify some of mine like this for hunting the tidal flats. :thumbsup:
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby HNTFSH » Sun May 09, 2010 8:51 am

This is a sweet little project idea and tutorial tenfingergrip. :thumbsup:

Question - how far down have you found the stakes need to be to support the deke in wind/light wind? Did you toy with a single stake before deciding on the bent (two pronged approach)? Am thinking in frozen ground terms here. :no:

BTW - thanks Inda.
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby Indaswamp » Sun May 09, 2010 12:20 pm

HNTFSH wrote:This is a sweet little project idea and tutorial tenfingergrip. :thumbsup:

Question - how far down have you found the stakes need to be to support the deke in wind/light wind? Did you toy with a single stake before deciding on the bent (two pronged approach)? Am thinking in frozen ground terms here. :no:

BTW - thanks Inda.

HNTFSH:
The double stake keeps the deek from spinning around in high winds...the way the slit is cut, the deek can move 30-40degrees either way...
I will have to play with the stake length in the tidal mud flats...might have to make them longer...
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby HNTFSH » Sun May 09, 2010 12:43 pm

Indaswamp wrote:
HNTFSH wrote:This is a sweet little project idea and tutorial tenfingergrip. :thumbsup:

Question - how far down have you found the stakes need to be to support the deke in wind/light wind? Did you toy with a single stake before deciding on the bent (two pronged approach)? Am thinking in frozen ground terms here. :no:

BTW - thanks Inda.

HNTFSH:
The double stake keeps the deek from spinning around in high winds...the way the slit is cut, the deek can move 30-40degrees either way...
I will have to play with the stake length in the tidal mud flats...might have to make them longer...


Oh yea...lol...duh.

Being the worlds worst architect but a forerunner in ignoring that limitation...I have to ask more questions than average. :yes:

Love the idea...but do have to account for the frozen and/or rocky ground - usually where a single stake works best. Need to examine the guts of my FB's a bit closer. :thumbsup:
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby Indaswamp » Sun May 09, 2010 1:08 pm

HNTFSH wrote:
Indaswamp wrote:
HNTFSH wrote:This is a sweet little project idea and tutorial tenfingergrip. :thumbsup:

Question - how far down have you found the stakes need to be to support the deke in wind/light wind? Did you toy with a single stake before deciding on the bent (two pronged approach)? Am thinking in frozen ground terms here. :no:

BTW - thanks Inda.

HNTFSH:
The double stake keeps the deek from spinning around in high winds...the way the slit is cut, the deek can move 30-40degrees either way...
I will have to play with the stake length in the tidal mud flats...might have to make them longer...


Oh yea...lol...duh.

Being the worlds worst architect but a forerunner in ignoring that limitation...I have to ask more questions than average. :yes:

Love the idea...but do have to account for the frozen and/or rocky ground - usually where a single stake works best. Need to examine the guts of my FB's a bit closer. :thumbsup:

most FB deeks have an upside down cone with a notch cut along the edge...the "T" that sticks out on the stakes fits in the notch and this is what minimizes side to side motion..... :thumbsup: I would think that a thin hard wire would be pretty easy to push in the ground-even if frozen...but you could alway make a "ground puncher" tool that you could stand on to make the holes... :yes: :thumbsup:
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby HNTFSH » Sun May 09, 2010 1:18 pm

Indaswamp wrote:most FB deeks have an upside down cone with a notch cut along the edge...the "T" that sticks out on the stakes fits in the notch and this is what minimizes side to side motion..... :thumbsup: I would think that a thin hard wire would be pretty easy to push in the ground-even if frozen...but you could alway make a "ground puncher" tool that you could stand on to make the holes... :yes: :thumbsup:


Yes they do - which puts me in the hole saw versus slit cut on the deke. The stakes are generally steel and can be pushed through frozen ground, around rocks, etc with the plastic T as leverage. The design of the stake(ground-end) and the design of the stake (duck body) are indeed, interdependent.
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby Indaswamp » Sun May 09, 2010 1:43 pm

HNTFSH wrote:
Indaswamp wrote:most FB deeks have an upside down cone with a notch cut along the edge...the "T" that sticks out on the stakes fits in the notch and this is what minimizes side to side motion..... :thumbsup: I would think that a thin hard wire would be pretty easy to push in the ground-even if frozen...but you could alway make a "ground puncher" tool that you could stand on to make the holes... :yes: :thumbsup:


Yes they do - which puts me in the hole saw versus slit cut on the deke. The stakes are generally steel and can be pushed through frozen ground, around rocks, etc with the plastic T as leverage. The design of the stake(ground-end) and the design of the stake (duck body) are indeed, interdependent.

Mr personally-I would not mess with Ten's design and change to a round hole...I'd go with the double stake and construct a "frozen ground hole puncher" and use that for leverage, then insert the double stakes...or you could take one of the ends of upside down "u" and cut it short, or bend it 90 degrees back towards the other stake as a stop in the mud, weld it where it touches the other stake...this will still give you the stop in the rectangular slit....that is what I may end up doing because the mud can be soft where I'm at....
then you only have one wire to push into the ground, and I'd go with heavier gauge wire for frozen ground...maybe 9 gauge or a little smaller... :thumbsup:
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby HNTFSH » Sun May 09, 2010 1:58 pm

Indaswamp wrote:Mr personally-I would not mess with Ten's design and change to a round hole...I'd go with the double stake and construct a "frozen ground hole puncher" and use that for leverage, then insert the double stakes...or you could take one of the ends of upside down "u" and cut it short, or bend it 90 degrees back towards the other stake as a stop in the mud, weld it where it touches the other stake...this will still give you the stop in the rectangular slit....that is what I may end up doing because the mud can be soft where I'm at....
then you only have one wire to push into the ground, and I'd go with heavier gauge wire for frozen ground...maybe 9 gauge or a little smaller... :thumbsup:


Inda - hope I am not being interpreted as picking on the design. I think it's great.

That said - am trying to apply the design to both duck and goose decoys. Typically any wire I can bend like that may not stand up to the use nor do I have a welder or welding buddy. :yes:

So thanks for the talking-out-loud here...It is near criminal what full body field dekes cost. :no:
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby Indaswamp » Sun May 09, 2010 2:19 pm

HNTFSH wrote:
Indaswamp wrote:Mr personally-I would not mess with Ten's design and change to a round hole...I'd go with the double stake and construct a "frozen ground hole puncher" and use that for leverage, then insert the double stakes...or you could take one of the ends of upside down "u" and cut it short, or bend it 90 degrees back towards the other stake as a stop in the mud, weld it where it touches the other stake...this will still give you the stop in the rectangular slit....that is what I may end up doing because the mud can be soft where I'm at....
then you only have one wire to push into the ground, and I'd go with heavier gauge wire for frozen ground...maybe 9 gauge or a little smaller... :thumbsup:


Inda - hope I am not being interpreted as picking on the design. I think it's great.

That said - am trying to apply the design to both duck and goose decoys. Typically any wire I can bend like that may not stand up to the use nor do I have a welder or welding buddy. :yes:

So thanks for the talking-out-loud here...It is near criminal what full body field dekes cost. :no:


if you are trying to get around having to weld the two wires, I have a method for you to use...give me a couple days and I will post a pic. of what I have in mind....easier to show a pic. than to try to explain... :thumbsup:
for the geese, I recommend 9 gauge wire for sure...9 gauge wire is about 1/8" thick and stout...you can still bend it around a bolt in a vise though...should work good.
Oh-and I'm sure some farmer around that area has a welder...go to a co-op store and ask around...find a farm kid that's good running a stick welder and offer to take him hunting, or pay him a couple of bucks..you would still come out ahead with the cost of true FB deeks!! :thumbsup:
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby tenfingergrip » Sun May 09, 2010 6:26 pm

Swampman,

That 9 ga wire, of which you spoke, is exactly the size of my stakes. These are heavy duty political signs and I have to cut the stuff with a bolt cutter. I used a single rod on my first pass and glued a flap of heavy foam rubber pad ( like you stand on in the garage that fits together with dove-tails - anti-fatigue mat). I ran the rod thru one end of the flap and stopped it where it would match up with the slit in the bottom of the deke. I bent the top of the rod in an "L" shape for the balance & rotate action. Worked ok but felt that the hard foam rubber would eventually wear off, so I went with the dual sided, u shape. I can't find any reason to change the design unless one has no way to weld on the tip.

Thanks for your vote of confidence!

You are right on about the pilot punch device. I made one 20 years ago for my silloutte decoys, a pointed flat steel bar with cross bar that you step on & 2 1/2 ft handle. I'll probably do the same for the field stakes since I go to Canada every fall for a one month stay for ducks and geese. Probably just weld a couple of 16 penny nails about 3inches apart on a step on bar. It can sometime freeze up and the pilot punch will be necessary to get the best use of the legs & feet.

Huntfish.....the wind issue is another reason I went with the dual sided stake. Less chance that the stake would be blown or tilted over. I push them down until the feet or end of the legs I made touch the ground. That's more than enough to keep them steady. I wear a pair of gloves so I don't injure my tender little hands. At 67 I bleed easily!
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby Indaswamp » Sun May 09, 2010 9:25 pm

Tenfinger,

Your design is ingenious! I love it!!! :bow: I have an addition that might help it look more lifelike though...how about gluing a block of 1" foam to the bottom and shaping it with a rasp/sand paper for the belly and painting with acrylics...then they would look really close to the store bought full bodies!! :thumbsup: The foam is light and should not impede the movement at all. :thumbsup:
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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby tenfingergrip » Mon May 10, 2010 8:03 am

Swampy,
Great idea!! Let me see yours when you are finished!!! Ha! Just a little bit more than I would want to tackle since I've already bagged 'em and put 'em in the trailer. Plus, I'm getting a little long in the tooth now and not sure I have that much more time to piddle.

My other recent diy projects: butt pulsator (my Frantic Feeding Fool), longtail 6.5 hp motor on a Four Rivers layout, vortex swirling mallards and a couple of other non-duck/goose hunting projects (planting sunflower/corn field for doves, fake light line across the field for dove decoys) are completed or are real near finished so I'll probably call my motion field mallards complete and put em in service this fall on my annual trip to Canada.

This foum has given me some great ideas for future projects and made me some great contacts with folks with my same interests. Hope you are of the same opinion.

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Re: how to make motion stakes for duck decoys

Postby Indaswamp » Fri Mar 25, 2011 2:33 am

TTT :thumbsup:
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