Advantages of cork duck decoys over regular?

Duck hunting for diver species like Canvasbacks, Redheads, Ringnecks, Eiders, Goldeneye and other diver ducks.

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Advantages of cork duck decoys over regular?

Postby Huntley » Mon Aug 18, 2003 3:07 pm

Can someone fill me in as to why cork decoys are sought after as the best?

Is it how they ride on the water, detailing? I've seen some that are pretty expensive but I want to ensure it's going to be a "the last" decoys for me to buy.

Thanks guys!
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Postby timmey9 » Mon Oct 06, 2003 11:27 am

I have never used cork decoys so i would like to know the difference. I doubt i will start using them because they are just too havey to lug around to where i hunt, but in the future...


So what makes them better? Other than you can shoot tham and the will float.
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Postby Blockduck » Sat Oct 18, 2003 5:34 pm

I have a few old Herter's and hate them because there aren't any keels on them to wrap the line around. I won't spend the money on new ones so I plan to keep my old Flambeaus and Carry-Lites that have worked wonderfully for me over the years.
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Postby STUMPGUNNER » Sun Oct 26, 2003 3:32 pm

I have used (hunted over) decoys made from plastic, wood, urethane, packing foam & cork. After using my first set up of 6 Black Duck Cork Decoys, I have been slowly replacing all of my decoys w/ cork.

There is just something about cork that ducks love. Not sure if its how it floats, moves on the water or what but ducks don't shy from them. Even late season, weary Black Ducks fall right out w/o thinking twice!

They are definately more expensive but IMO, WELL worth it.

Good Luck this season
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Postby DUKHTR » Fri Oct 31, 2003 9:54 am

I love the corkers! Maybe some of this is 'tradition', but for some reason they are VERY effective, especially on Blacks. I don't always use them because of the weight issue, but when I do I seem to have a good hunt. I have LLBean and Herter.
One thing I learned the hard way - be sure to wash them off if using them in salt water - the breast area will break down over years of use unless you seal them.
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Postby quackerkiller » Tue Dec 16, 2003 7:15 am

In place of corks if your looking for long lasting decoys try the Herters Burlaps they will last you as long as u wanna hunt
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Postby Brett Beinke » Fri May 06, 2005 12:31 pm

This biggest difference from cork to plastic is the way cork rides the water. Cork just ride really well with little or no decoy "slap" as waves hit the decoys.
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Postby the_duckinator » Fri May 06, 2005 12:44 pm

Another plus side of cork is that they still float after they get hit with a load of steel 2's :thumbsup:
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Postby SwampHunter » Thu May 12, 2005 9:07 pm

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Last edited by SwampHunter on Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby texan68 » Tue Jul 19, 2005 2:18 pm

In my opinion, it's not worth it.. No keels and heavy. Sorry, but I can't believe ducks like cork better. Even the late season birds come into them......ok ......I'll believe it when I see it. G&H and GHG have much more detail, and are more durable. I can understand making a few as an offseason project, but having an entire spread....I'll have to pass. I have made and used a few cork bluebills in the past, but they still didn't come close to my G&H. Not to mention them cork dekes are freakin EXPENSIVE$$$$$$.
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Postby Cobra » Sun Aug 21, 2005 2:27 pm

Had about 40 'bills that I made before they vanished (stolen) from my garage quite a few years back along with some Mallards. Personal advantages - no 2 looked alike every head position and pose was different, after being balanced and with a proper keel they rode the heavy water better than any synthetic, and the best was that they were my creation - nothing like shooting or catching something on/over something you made, flyfishermen will totally understand. Only disadvantage was that they are heavy (great in heavy water though) and bulky but those 40 usually would out draw 8-10dz synthetics. They also take up less room than the 10 dz synthetics I've lugged around since. Store bought corkers look generic to me and are way overpriced.
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Postby texan68 » Sun Aug 21, 2005 3:15 pm

like I said, I made a few bills a few years back....seemed to work just as well as the plastics. If the ducks are in close enough to see different head positions, they're in shooting range.
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Postby takeem » Wed Aug 24, 2005 11:08 am

Cork, foam, cedar, the closer to the actual density of a duck, the more realistic it will ride in the water. Plastics "bob" because they are so light. It is a trade off for weight to realistic floatation. If there isn't any wave action, the birds won't notice a plastic bobbing in the water. If you have a 2 pound duck, another object of the same proportions and weight will float similiar in the water, hence the heavier decoys
Cedar blocks are used for diver rigs because they are inexpensive and can be mass produced. Their color patterns could be painted by any one and ducks will flock into them. On the same turn they have the approximate density of a real duck. If you have nice looking painted birds, put them on the outside of the rig. Everyone has experiences with anything working as a decoy, from plastic bleach bottles to a hand carved award winning decoys. For diver hunting it is numbers, some color, set-up of the decoys, conceilment of the boat, and most importantly conceilment of the hunter and their face(s).
From personnal experience, I'm a believer in how a decoy rides vs. a nice factory paint job.
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Postby texan68 » Wed Aug 24, 2005 5:41 pm

we're not newbies takeem
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Postby AK Ducks » Mon Sep 05, 2005 6:49 pm

I hunt divers with foam decoys now but want to get some cork and carve my own every where I look people say that cork it the best hands down (if you don't have to carry it) I also like having ducks come into dekes you made your self.
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