Question

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Question

Postby sureshot 612 » Sun Nov 17, 2013 3:52 am

Has anyone gone from a short shaft motor on there boat to a long shaft motor and used a jack plate .if so were there any issues or handling trouble.
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Re: Question

Postby Cujo1 » Sun Nov 17, 2013 8:18 am

sureshot 612 wrote:Has anyone gone from a short shaft motor on there boat to a long shaft motor and used a jack plate .if so were there any issues or handling trouble.

The only times I have seen it done, it actually seemed to work better. The jackplate sits the motor back a few inches and once you get the motor adjusted to the proper height it gets cleaner wanter and works good. I does put the motor back so the weight of the motor moves back and on a small boat may alter your boat level in the rear a little. Counter that by throwing a few more things in the front :thumbsup:
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Re: Question

Postby aunt betty » Sun Nov 17, 2013 8:24 am

What you got cujo? I swapped lower units to avoid this issue.
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Re: Question

Postby sureshot 612 » Sun Nov 17, 2013 4:07 pm

i checked the plate out at bass pro and it does set it back a few inches and you can raise it to were you need it.just not sure if i want to use the jack plate ,or just build up the transom .AB the reason for the change is the motor that i currently have is older and is starting to cause me trouble and i have a chance on getting a real good deal on a newer one at a good price, and i not sure what way i want to go . thanks for the replies any other comments welcome . :smile:
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Re: Question

Postby gearhead80 » Mon Nov 18, 2013 7:57 am

No matter what, when set up correctly a boat with a jackplate will run better in a lot of ways than one without a jackplate. If you have the coin, a hydrulic plate would be even better. Being able to raise the engine in shallow water and still have push is a nice thing.
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Re: Question

Postby brownduck » Mon Nov 18, 2013 7:57 am

Another option is to just put a bracket directly on the transom. Take two 12" X 18" pieces of plate aluminum and put a piece of 2X4 (or 2X6, depending on how high you need it to be; a single block of wood is better than two smaller pieces) between them at the top, slide one piece in front of and the second piece behind the transom, then bolt through both pieces and the transom. This really only works for fairly small motors, though.

You can also get a similar bracket welded up with side rails to distribute the flex (the higher you get from the original transom, the more flex you get if you hit something) into the gunwales (I attached a photo of it). I've had good luck with this to convert a short-transom jon boat to a tall-transom so I could switch out a prop and a jet unit without any other adjustments. I had the first one welded to fit either a 35 jet or a 35 LS prop on the same transom, and on a separate boat, made a bracket with 2X4s to run a LS 7.5. Both worked pretty well, but you'd want a more rugged setup for the heavier motors. running a LS prop can spray more than a SS with this setup, so making some sort of flange to keep the spray down might be something to consider.

My issues with jack plates are that they make it more difficult to drive the boat (unless you have a console). Being 4-5" further back than normal, you have to lean way back to operate them. As other posters mentioned, this changes the weight distribution of the boat. Having the weight centered over the transom, it drives like any boat would, but you just need a thicker cushion to sit on.

I personally prefer using LS motors set up this way, because it gives you more functional freeboard (the motor won't swamp if you come off step too quickly) and it is easier to drive standing up (great for jet boating and for driving through weeds/stumps, etc when you need to be able to see and pick your route).

Just my thoughts...
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LS transom lift.JPG
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Re: Question

Postby sureshot 612 » Mon Nov 18, 2013 8:59 am

thanks for the reply guys . gear head i checked the price of a hydrolic plate and its a couple hundred bucks .brownduck what you did on your boat was my 2nd option and thanks for the pic. all the replies help thanks again ,and one other thing brown duck ,how did you get your picture to post thanks
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Re: Question

Postby brownduck » Mon Nov 18, 2013 10:29 am

Sureshot,

To attach a photo, you need to click upload attachment and then click add file. The tab is below the Save draft / Preview / Submit tabs on the reply screen.

Glad to help. Good luck with the project!
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Re: Question

Postby gearhead80 » Mon Nov 18, 2013 12:01 pm

What kind pf boat/engine setup are we talking here? My 4' setback actually made my Yamaha 60hp tiller easier to drive with the way the back seats are arranged in my boat. I stand and drive most of the time too since it runs so high having a tunnel.
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Re: Question

Postby sureshot 612 » Mon Nov 18, 2013 12:48 pm

i have a 16 ft john boat with an even. 30 hp short shaft, and will be getting a 25 hp Yam. long shaft . bass pro has a mini jacker that raises the motor but also sets it back . the mini-jacker says it can handle up to a 30 hp motor or 150lbs. in your post you mentioned a tunnel , not sure what you are referring to . thanks
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Re: Question

Postby gearhead80 » Mon Nov 18, 2013 1:10 pm

This is my tunnel. Allows to run very shallow water.. 10"-12" hard bottom and I have actually run through soft bottom not losing drive while the boat was actually on the mud bottom. I have people looking at me funny when I go where I do with this thing having an outboard on it..

Image

Image
If I ask a question, I don't want your opinion. I want facts.
Don't tell me something you think, tell me something you know.
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Although, being a forum the next guy will know more no matter what.
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Re: Question

Postby sureshot 612 » Mon Nov 18, 2013 1:29 pm

nice work and nice pics ,thanks for all your help.i wasn't sure if the jack plate that they are selling would do the job,but i guess it will thanks again.
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