Pricing out a home built 12 'stitch n glue' duck boat

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Pricing out a home built 12 'stitch n glue' duck boat

Postby dloop » Thu Jan 26, 2006 2:54 pm

I'm considering building a stitch n glue duckboat this offseason. I've put together the prices for most of the items and I thought I would share in case others were thinking the same. Especially if you are considering buy vs build.

Qty- Description $Extended

4- Sheets 4' x 8' 3/8" (9mm) marine plywood Okume BS1088 $250.88
1- Sheet ¾" (18mm) marine plywood Okume BS1088 $123.84
1- Sheet ½" (12mm) marine plywood Okume BS1088 $80.64
2- ¾" x 6" x 16' straight fair fir; or port orford cedar or yellow cedar $0.00
3- Rolls 4” x 50 yard 8oz biaxial tape $71.52
18- Yards 60” x 6oz fiberglass cloth 7533 $100.98
1- 7 ½ Gallon Kit #2, System Three Epoxy Resin & Medium Hardener $360.00
3- Cab O Sil, 1 lb. Bag $30.45
3- Wood Flour, 5 Quart Container $43.50
1- System Three Plunger Pump Kit $11.36
1- Sleeve (100 ea.) 14 oz. Paper Graduated Cup (R14N) $11.80
2- 2 Quart Kit, 2 lb. Density Pour Foam $71.06
1- Pack (10 ea.) 6" Plastic Spreader/Squeegee $4.00
1- Oar locks $30.00
Oars (use the ones I have already) $0.00
1- SS bow eye $5.00
brass half oval keel chaf guard $0.00
SS screws $0.00
Paint DP40 (grey/green) / DP401 $0.00
Electrical Fence Wire (stitches) $0.00
Cradle (not required, but to make it easier for me) $0.00
Paint Roller $0.00
Paint Brushes $0.00
Mixing sticks $0.00

SubTotal $1,195.03
tax $97.99
TOTAL $1,293.02
Last edited by dloop on Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby ACEBLDRS » Thu Jan 26, 2006 6:42 pm

What is a stich n glue boat look like?
.....you've got to ask yourself a question: 'Do I feel lucky?' Well, do ya, punk?

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Postby dloop » Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:28 pm

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Postby Smackaduck » Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:55 pm

Thats a pretty neat deal. Please be sure and post us some pics of the process if you do decide to build one.
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Postby jjohnson_714 » Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:55 pm

hey thats pretty stinkin nifty... i wish i had the time and $$... i think it would be awesome to build a boat from scratch... :thumbsup:
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Postby jjohnson_714 » Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:12 pm

i actually read the entire 'how to' guide... it really doesnt seem to be all that difficult... just time consuming... now i really wish i had the time and $$ to build something like that...
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Postby Tack in NJ » Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:52 am

My Buddy and I built a Black BrantIII this past summer and its an awesome boat. Wasn't that hard but took some time to build. But then again we are perfectionists when it comes to finish work. We are gona design and build a 2 man sneakbox for me in the next month or so. I'll take pics of the process and the finished project and post em.
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Postby jonpetersen » Thu Feb 16, 2006 2:32 am

I have built a couple of wood duck boats, you can do better on epoxy prices than what you have listed. I have used marine epoxy from boatbuilderscentral.com with good success, 6 gallon kit is 258.00. You could consider using Meranti plywood, still marine grade and no voids. Its a little heavier but somewhat cheaper if price is an issue.
I found that I use more epoxy than I imagine but the 7 gallon should get you buy. If you are interested in a couple of decent web sites drop me a line and I will forward them. I would assume that you have looked at the building tutorial on duckboats.net. I found the pictures a lot of help the first time around.

I had a good time building and learned a lot in the process.

My 2 cents

JP
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Postby chessieboy » Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:10 am

I'd love to try that but I think the Susquehanna rocks would eat her alive.
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Postby marcbme » Fri Feb 17, 2006 11:35 am

Try using a high quality duct tape vs. stiches. I've talked to several stitch and glue builders and they say it's alot easier not having to worry about aligning the drill holes and makes for a much nicer finished look (no worry about covering all them dang holes.

I'm building mine also this spring, as soon as it's warm enough to work with the epoxy.

I wouldn't use the west systems epoxy if your going to paint/camo your boat. This epoxy is more for a finished high gloss finish for drift boats, pritty canoes. Look into a cheaper epoxy that won't finish as well, but is 1/2 the price. If your painting over it, the finish won't matter anyway.

Just some suggestions
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Postby jonpetersen » Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:08 pm

I have never heard of using the duct tape, if it works it would be time and effort saver, no doubt! I would assume you would need to build somekind of a cradle to set it in prior to the epoxy setting?

sounds like an interesting idea

JP
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Postby dloop » Sun Feb 19, 2006 4:01 pm

I've heard someone else mention using duct tape but I thought it was to run along the outside of the seam, to keep the seam clean while the epoxy hardens to help minimize clean-up sanding later. I hadn't thought about using it in place of the stitches themselves. Interesting idea.

I shopped around a little more and Raka Epoxy has some good proces on epoxy.
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Postby marcbme » Mon Feb 20, 2006 2:39 pm

Another good idea is to use a finishing circular saw versus a jig saw. Anyone who's ever tried to cut paneling with a jig saw knows how difficult it can be to stay on line sometimes with the vibration of the saw and the bouncing of the paneling.
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duct tape?

Postby AK Ray » Wed Feb 22, 2006 7:10 pm

While building my BBIII there was way too much stress in the bow area where the hull does some big curves and wire was needed. Duct tape would have pulled off in a second. For non stress areas like at the stern tape may work out OK. I imagine that tape would work well on a CLC kayak. I would worry about the glue being left behind and causing problems during sanding and glassing later. One big disadvantage to using tape is if you have to move the boat prior to glassing the seams. With the boat stitched you can move it around. If it was taped it would fall apart.

A lot of builders are using zip ties now and leaving them in since they are plastic and won't cause the same level of damage as wire can if left behind. They also don't puncture you like wire does. Lots of blood on my boat before she was done.

RAKA is a good source of all your f-glassing stuff. Larry is good to work with.

Also ask questions at the duckboats.net site forum. Lots of S-N-G builders there. I also recommend getting a copy of Sam Deviln's book on S-N-G boat building. It is very helpfull.

start collecting 1 quart yogurt containers. These are the best size for epoxy. The 14 oz cups are a little small for when you are doing anything bigger than a 1 foot section/seam. You will need at least two one gallon plastic paint buckets for big batches of epoxy to do the hull glass.

The Ditzler paint is a little overboard. Latext house paint is a little under board. Get some flat marine enamel from Lock Stock and Barrel - Lou is a good guy.

Get a box of tounge depressors if you don't already have a stock pile of small stir sticks.

Make a epoxy mixer out of a dowl or metal arrow shaft using two sheet rock screws in the mixing end. Place this in a cheap drill and you will mix up the epoxy right quick and save pot life. Arrow shaft will require dowl inside to mount the screws into and for the drill chuck.

Get a bunch of cheap scissors and a couple of utility knives for cutting the glass. You will end up throwing them away once they are covered in epoxy.

Vinegar works great for cleanup on fresh epoxy. Better on your skin for sure than acetone.

The two part foam is really temperature sensitive when mixing and pouring. The color change in the mixing bucket is critical to having a good batch. You may need more than what you show.

There is lots more to share when you start.
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