1448 G3 Build

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1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sat Oct 15, 2011 6:41 pm

I recently upgraded from a 12ft v hull to a 1448 jon. I baught it off a guy who seemed to have barely used it. It's an '06 that had '07 tags on it. The first thing I noticed was that the trailer was not meant for the boat so I rebuilt it.
Photo121.jpg

I used glvanized electrical strut ang galv. nuts and bolts. for the "chassis" and
p.t. and some cheap carpet for the runners
Photo120.jpg

after that I decided the boat needed a name and a new paint job. I purchased a brand spank'n new 25hp honda
salmon 032.jpg
which ended up being a little heavy for her, so I added beavertail float pods. float pods were a blessing but the shop who welded them on was sub par and I ended up having to do a bit of the work myself.
After painting it, I built a bimini top out of 3/4 emt and fittings I ordered from gander mountain and cabelas. The bimini was really fust practice for the Blind build. I then added seat post bases and baught a couple seats.
salmon 038.jpg
the seat post base on the bow is intended for the Blind attachment point. I replaced the permanent driver seat with a post base as well, so I can move one seat around to any any position. I used a piece of galv. 5/8 all thread and some hardware to make the bow attachment point. at the stern I just screwed a deck mount for a bimini top. the same piece I used in the front on my 5/8 galv. all thread deal. I then used 3/4" emt with 7/8" bimini fittings to make the rails.
salmon 040.jpg
I bent the conduit to fit inside the gunwales of the boat perfectly. I offset the rail that goes over my head on the main beam to add height then just added another rail to keep the camo netting from sagging into the back of my head when in the blind. I've ordered Avery real grass concealment mats but they haven't arrived yet I used bimini straps and various clips and buckles to atach everything to gether. I think the simplest and cheapest part of the entire build was the zip ties and clothes pins, which makes a quick release for popping out and shooting. will post more pics later
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sat Oct 15, 2011 6:50 pm

Here it is with the camo netting
salmon 041.jpg
Here is the quick release for the shooting hole section of the camo netting, I guess its a case of simpler is better because this ended up working great.
salmon 043.jpg
I clothes pinned the lower section of camo netting to the tail of the zip tie that holds the upper section of camo netting to the rail. We named it
Photo108.jpg
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sat Oct 15, 2011 6:57 pm

I used 3/4" dowling inside of the conduit and then screwed thru both to attach theemt together. I also screwed the straps to the rails where I looped the strap around the rail. The entire build with the bimini top, the grass matts, bimini hardware, etc cost lesst than $400 and the grass mats were $180 of it. I could of easily spent $900 on a blind and bimini that didn't come with grass mats.
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby bayouboy » Sat Oct 15, 2011 7:36 pm

looks good man.

my first thoughts when i saw that honda was it was going to be heavy but nice going w/ the pods.
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sun Oct 16, 2011 12:41 am

G3 rates this hull for a 25hp but it was not safe with that heavy of a motor. Sat about 4-5" above the waterline at the transom. With the pods, the weight of the motor is countered and they add an insane amount of stability. didn't notice much in the way of performance but it sits way higher in the water when stopped now 8-10" out of the water at the transom(16"h).
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1448 G3 Build

Postby bayouboy » Sun Oct 16, 2011 7:29 am

WesB wrote:G3 rates this hull for a 25hp but it was not safe with that heavy of a motor. Sat about 4-5" above the waterline at the transom. With the pods, the weight of the motor is countered and they add an insane amount of stability. didn't notice much in the way of performance but it sits way higher in the water when stopped now 8-10" out of the water at the transom(16"h).



Those 4 strokes are heavy





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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:10 pm

155lbs, 3 cylinder, but 4 strokes are required most of the places I fish. What i need to do is buy a surface drive, an outboard jet(2 stroke), and a 2-stroke prop...But my Honda has no problem do'n 20mph with the boat completely loaded(overloaded), 25mph empty.
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby Reid07 » Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:51 am

If that motor is a 3 cylinder, I'd bet you could get more than 25 HP out of if you felt so inclined... :thumbsup: :wink:
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sun May 06, 2012 2:49 pm

I should be able to get a few more horses out of her, I'm just a little hesitant to rip into my brand new motor. on another note I ordered an atlas micro jacker jack plate. I'm probably gonna use it salmon fish'n more often than duck hunting but being able to run shallow is always a good thing. last season I took her out hunting and everything worked great except the wood dowels, they got wet and broke. I'm gonna go back in with metal, probably 1/2" conduit. Its great to hunt out of once its set up, and set up is a breeze. Here are a few more pics.
Attachments
Photo369.jpg
Photo380.jpg
Photo391.jpg
Photo392.jpg
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Mon May 07, 2012 12:46 pm

Heres a few pics of my homemade bimini. 3/4 conduit, 7/8 bimini fittings, a few straps and snaps, and some fabric my brother in law sewed up for me that is used for outdoor insulation blankets
Attachments
Photo451.jpg
Photo450.jpg
Photo449.jpg
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby Have Gun Will Travel » Mon May 07, 2012 2:58 pm

Nice boat man. What kind of grass did you use? It looks to be a little darker and have more orange than the regular fast grass. I think it would match our marshes very well around here.
adustydawg2 wrote: maybe, just maybe, if you held your mouth right and prayed a little, you might get a 1 day invite before the end of the season. :eek: :hammer: Just a possibility. :bow: Send me a pm. :hi:
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Mon May 07, 2012 4:37 pm

they're avery realgrass concealment mid season. $49.99 for a 4x4 sheet...I think i got them from macksp.com cabelas has them too but I'm not sure if they're early, mid, or late season.
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby Have Gun Will Travel » Mon May 07, 2012 10:04 pm

Thanks man that's what I thought it was. Ive been looking at other pics of the stuff. The normal type is just too light for our salt marshes.
adustydawg2 wrote: maybe, just maybe, if you held your mouth right and prayed a little, you might get a 1 day invite before the end of the season. :eek: :hammer: Just a possibility. :bow: Send me a pm. :hi:
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sat May 12, 2012 6:53 pm

Here's some pics of the new jack plate, haven't taken her out yet to see the performance. I had to drill holes on the motor side of the jack to accept my motor but other than that it bolted right up.
Photo452.jpg
Photo453.jpg
Photo458.jpg
Photo457.jpg
Photo456.jpg
This one is of the motor all the way up. you can also see the 2 pieces of alluminum flat stock I used as a beefed up washer in the inside of the transome. its about 3/16 thick but super light. When the motor is raised up, the motor sits 8" higher than when it rested on the transom. When the jack is bottomed out, the cav. plate sit just a hair below the bottom of the hull. G3 and Honda recomend the motor cav. plate be set between 0-1" below the bottom of the hull.
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sat May 12, 2012 6:58 pm

Photo455.jpg
another one of the inside of the transom.
Photo463.jpg
I had to make sure the tilt/trim pin could still be removed after I bolted her all up.
Photo461.jpg
If i still get water into the intake I should be able to run in about 10-12" of water. Before the jack plate I could run about 18-20" of water
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby carolinagreenhead » Sat May 12, 2012 7:33 pm

A few questions about your jack plate and pods. What size jack plate is that? Is it for a full size motor (like 200-300 hp)? What size are your pods? I am mainly interested in the width of the pods from the side of the boat to the motor side of the pod. The reason I ask this is because I have the same size boat w/ a jack plate. My plate is a CMC manual rated for a 300 hp motor. I looks like your plate is much smaller than mine and I have been thinking about putting pods on my boat and the ones that beavertail makes I don't think will fit. I think they would be too wide, even the small ones. Yours looks like you have plenty of room between the motor and the pods. Now my jack plate is much too big for a 25 hp motor, obviously, but I just about stole it so I couldn't beat the deal. Who made your pods?

Your build is coming along real nice by the way. I like it.
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sat May 12, 2012 9:53 pm

The jack plate is the TH Marine Atlas Micro Jacker. its for motors upto 90hp and weighs 23lbs. I thinkits about 14.5 inches wide. My pods are beavertail's small float pods. heres the link to the specs. http://www.explorebeavertail.com/images ... llpods.jpg
My transom is a little crowded but there's plenty of room for the motor to turn all the way in both directions. And I can't say enough good things about the pods, they add stability, and keep that heavy motor from sink'n my boat. definetly worth the money, just make sure you have them welded on by someone who knows what they're doing with light guage alluminum.
Heres the link to the jack plate. http://www.basspro.com/Atlas-Micro-Jack ... _THUMBNAIL
Thanks for the compliment!
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Mon May 21, 2012 5:43 pm

I took My rig out for a test run this weekend. With just me and another guy I got her upto 28mph(previously 25mph top speed) and ran aprox. 14inches of water(previously 20inches). I had the motor raised up until the front of the cav plate was just above the water while at top speed. Higher than that and the prop started suck'n air which made me loose speed. I only had to raise the jack about half way to get there which should work out well. When I have the boat loaded down with gear I still have some airspace to get the motor even higher.
I also tested it at idle. I could raise the motor all the way up and still get water into the intake. I ran about the same depth as mentioned above. I think my next step will be testing it with a hydroil. I have one already from another boat but haven't been to impressed by there performance.
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby carolinagreenhead » Mon May 21, 2012 6:24 pm

I looked up that jack plate. If I am reading everything right, there is no external actuator or anything. It's a self contained unit. Do you have any more pics of the inside of your transom area. I want to see how you have it set up. It seems there is only a wire to the battery if I'm reading everything correctly.
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Mon May 21, 2012 8:50 pm

You are correct, The pump is part of the jack. If you look at the pic of me holding it on the ground. the pump is housed inside the box w/ the yellow sticker. The housing is attached to the motor side of the jack. The wiring is very simple. It has a positive lead, a negative lead, and a switch. Just hook it up to the battery and figure out whre you want the wires. The pump works on reversing the polarity to make it retract so there are a couple of little boxes that have to be mounted (about the size of a D battery) they are part of the positive lead. I think the hardest part of the wiring for me is going to be deciding where to put the switch. It is all inclusive and really easy to setup. great little unit.
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sun Jun 24, 2012 4:47 pm

Here's the latest projects and pics
Photo488.jpg
Installed switch board / circuit breaker for all my electronics

Photo489.jpg
I put a disconnect switch between the battery and a post for all my + leads. also mounted the jack plate wiring harness inside. everything in the boat grounds directly to the battery (a must if you troll or have electrolisis problems)

Photo487.jpg
I mounted the controls for the jack plate in the tiller. (between shift lever and throttle) then ran wires inside tiller.

Photo490.jpg
Mounted a couple of head lights

Photo492.jpg
Installed a bilge pump w/ float switch and ran the discharge out and zip tied it to the jack plate.
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Sun Jun 24, 2012 4:51 pm

Photo494.jpg
Finish product with an ice cream paint job

You can see my old bilge pump sit'n on the bench
Attachments
Photo486.jpg
Photo491.jpg
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby carolinagreenhead » Sun Jun 24, 2012 5:10 pm

Looking good. :thumbsup:
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby WesB » Mon Sep 03, 2012 8:57 pm

I've been taking my boat out salmon fishing in the sac river for the last month...ran it through 12" of water without hit'n the prop on the rocks. Myself, my girlfriend, an ice chest with 40lbs of ice and a 18lb, 15lb, 12lb salmon, plus gear on the boat. I'de be lying if I said " I knew it could make it", basically I puckered up and stayed on the throttle...proud of my little boat
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Re: 1448 G3 Build

Postby MODuckkiller » Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:47 pm

Nice job with the build, I'm especially impressed with the camo/brushing job! :thumbsup:
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