New duck boat build

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New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Sat Sep 28, 2013 3:57 pm

Starting a new project. Picked up a 16 ft bass tracker with a 50hp mercury that will be a gradual build as I have money to do so. Open to all suggestions or tips from previous experiments. Image


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Re: New duck boat build

Postby tod0987 » Sat Sep 28, 2013 8:39 pm

Has a lot of potential!

It looks like it may have had water setting in it. I'd check for saturated foam. If so replace with closed cell.

Keep the floor as open as possible. Keep the console as small as possible and off to one side.

If finishing off the front deck build it so that your batteries (should you decide to run 2) are up there vs the stern to help balance the weight.

use self etching primer or zinc chromate to seal the bare aluminum prior to painting.

Good luck
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby QuackerSmacker498 » Sat Sep 28, 2013 8:40 pm

Great project! Getting started a bit late for this season. I had that same motor for five years. Good motor! Go through all the electrical connections on the motor and clean any corrosion. Same for the connections on the ancient hydraulic pump for the power tilt. It looks like it has power tilt. If not I reccomend a CMC tilt for any duck boat where the motor ways over 150 lbs. Can't wait to see the finished product. Stainless prop added 4-5 mph on 16.5.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Sat Sep 28, 2013 9:32 pm

I'm actually a little "scared" of this motor in used to tiller steer and this a ton of electronics compared to that. Anyone with experience with these motors please chime in. It is not a power tilt and the prop is questionable at best. Kind of playing with the idea of trying to trade someone for a tiller steer motor.


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Re: New duck boat build

Postby T Man » Sun Sep 29, 2013 9:37 pm

Gut the foam, trackers of that vintage are notorious for waterlogged foam. You can switch to tiller steer, but a console setup is so much more practical for all year use. If you really want a slick setup, find the rigging for a crappie boat. Open floor plan of a tiller boat, forward visibility of a console. Those merc's dont really have many electronics on them. Just the control module. They are a cinch to work on.
Botiz630 wrote:How much does an apostrophe cost down south? Must be quite a bit, based on how sparingly you use them.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby t_baker » Sun Sep 29, 2013 10:04 pm

That is the only vintage of Mercury that my grandpa has ever ran. He has had 3 or 4 of them. He said they used to call the "the tower of power". T Man is right about the control module. They are more than easy to work on and if it runs good...dont change it.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:11 am

I actually tore into the wiring harness from the forward controls all the way back to the motor rewiring as i go. The leads and connectors were all junk, so i switched over to a trailer style plug, 7 wires running back to the motor and a 7 pin trailer plug worked out perfectly. Have a new ignition switch with keys (didn't have them before) and a new choke and neutral safety switch on order as well. Decided to stay with the console but going to trim it down a bit to take up less space. The foam had already been yanked from the boat when i bought it so no issues there. All in all i don't anticipate being able to hunt out of it this year, but, with the way it is progressing i may be able to hunt the second half of the season with it. I will post up some pictures tonight after work so y'all can see how it is coming. Thanks for all the input.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby T Man » Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:48 am

How does it run in the water
Botiz630 wrote:How much does an apostrophe cost down south? Must be quite a bit, based on how sparingly you use them.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Mon Sep 30, 2013 9:11 am

Haven't had it in the water yet, no keys to start motor yet, but have bumped it over with a battery and cables. Everything looks pretty clean on the motor but i plan on putting new gas line in and changing gear case oil before i run it for any length of time. Hopefully i'll have it firing within a week.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby T Man » Mon Sep 30, 2013 4:01 pm

midwesthunter wrote:Haven't had it in the water yet, no keys to start motor yet, but have bumped it over with a battery and cables. Everything looks pretty clean on the motor but i plan on putting new gas line in and changing gear case oil before i run it for any length of time. Hopefully i'll have it firing within a week.


Change out plugs as well. If the boat sat more than a month or two plan on rebuilding the Carb. Low speed jets gum up on those pretty easily. The prime diaphragm is also a weak point. To the port side of the Carb there is a blue button. With the fuel system pressurized push it a few times. If fuel squirts out the side the diaphragm is bad
Botiz630 wrote:How much does an apostrophe cost down south? Must be quite a bit, based on how sparingly you use them.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:54 pm

Here's one for you, after carefully following a wiring diagram I rewired from the outside case of the controls all the way to the motor. When I hook the battery leads to the battery the motor turns over, I'm assuming it is a bad ignition switch but have not received my new switch yet. Anyone with experience/ knowledge please chime in. Thanks


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Re: New duck boat build

Postby T Man » Mon Sep 30, 2013 10:01 pm

midwesthunter wrote:Here's one for you, after carefully following a wiring diagram I rewired from the outside case of the controls all the way to the motor. When I hook the battery leads to the battery the motor turns over, I'm assuming it is a bad ignition switch but have not received my new switch yet. Anyone with experience/ knowledge please chime in. Thanks


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Will the motor crank even if the kill switch is turned off? If so, make sure your b+ is on the right side of the starter solenoid (opposite of the starter wire)

If not disconnect the yellow/red wire from the ign. switch, and try hooking up. This should be the trigger for the starter solenoid. If it doesn't start then the ign. switch is probably the culprit.
Botiz630 wrote:How much does an apostrophe cost down south? Must be quite a bit, based on how sparingly you use them.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:54 pm

Finally got the wiring figured out had a wire swapped. Only foam left to pull is around the transom. Also got the plugs changed boots greased and all connections greased (with dielectric grease). Have new fuel line throughout as we'll. making slow but steady progress. ImageImageImage


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Re: New duck boat build

Postby T Man » Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:15 pm

Are you sure there is no foam in those "pods" on the rear of the boat? That boat definitely sat with water in it for a long time. I would err on the safe side and assume that any wiring is shot, i.e. the bilge pump etc. I would also re-seal any through hull fittings, like the one for the bilge pump with 5200. To clean, spray down inside and outside with NAPA Alumabrite. It will take all the scum off the boat and give a good surface to lay your primer down on. One last thing, dont get too attached to that transom...it looks like it doesn't have much left in it.

*Edit*

Your beer choice still sucks. Drink beer that comes from the Rockies, not the St. Louis River...
Botiz630 wrote:How much does an apostrophe cost down south? Must be quite a bit, based on how sparingly you use them.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Wed Oct 02, 2013 6:57 am

That's the foam I was talking about haha and the thru hull fittings are all welded. The transom actually isn't in horrible shape either. The 5200 is already bought for areas that need minor attention though


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Re: New duck boat build

Postby T Man » Wed Oct 02, 2013 8:50 am

midwesthunter wrote:That's the foam I was talking about haha and the thru hull fittings are all welded. The transom actually isn't in horrible shape either. The 5200 is already bought for areas that need minor attention though


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Transoms don't rot from the outside in. It looks like unsealed ply.
Botiz630 wrote:How much does an apostrophe cost down south? Must be quite a bit, based on how sparingly you use them.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:33 pm

It looks that way t-man. Haven't gotten quite that far yet. On a side note where did you order your new prop for your flat bottom at? The prop on the boat is a little chewed up. Not so bad where it wouldn't work but not an ideal prop. It's a 13 spline prop haven't looked to see what the diameter or pitch are yet though.


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Re: New duck boat build

Postby QuackerSmacker498 » Wed Oct 02, 2013 3:33 pm

Best thing about that 50 HP merc is that it has 4 cylinders. It should idle smooth all day where as other older two stokes might start to load up if they idle for long periods of time. Keep the steering tube well greased. If it starts to get stiff, let me know. I have a few tricks to freeing it up without disassembling the motor.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby QuackerSmacker498 » Wed Oct 02, 2013 3:38 pm

Little trick I learned about foam that touches the bottom of the boat. Remove it. Purchase a pliable aluminum heavy gauge screen material. Rivet the material down to the one inch tall risers/supports on the bottom of the boat. Place foam on top of screen. This will allow air flow on the bottom of the foam and the foam can drain. DONT DRILL THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF YOUR BOAT. then re install those rear boxes. They are loaded with soggy foam. This also allows all the water in the boat to travel back near your bilge when accelerate and get the bow up. Works great and well worth the time!
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby T Man » Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:32 pm

midwesthunter wrote:It looks that way t-man. Haven't gotten quite that far yet. On a side note where did you order your new prop for your flat bottom at? The prop on the boat is a little chewed up. Not so bad where it wouldn't work but not an ideal prop. It's a 13 spline prop haven't looked to see what the diameter or pitch are yet though.


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Ive ordered all of mine from iboats.net. They were solas props, ive got a 3 blade and a 4 blade. I lost 2mph over the mercury prop, going from a 10x13 to a 10x13, but I plane out 2 miles slower, and it cost 1/3 the price of the merc prop. I manage to find gravel bars way too easily on the river to run a $180 prop.
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Wed Oct 02, 2013 7:04 pm

Pretty happy with Iboats cust service?


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Re: New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Wed Oct 02, 2013 7:06 pm

QuackerSmacker498 wrote:Best thing about that 50 HP merc is that it has 4 cylinders. It should idle smooth all day where as other older two stokes might start to load up if they idle for long periods of time. Keep the steering tube well greased. If it starts to get stiff, let me know. I have a few tricks to freeing it up without disassembling the motor.

The steering is stiff now, I'm interested to see how you grease the line easily


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Re: New duck boat build

Postby T Man » Wed Oct 02, 2013 7:56 pm

midwesthunter wrote:Pretty happy with Iboats cust service?



I wont buy my props anywhere else. I ordered my prop on a Thursday morning, it was delivered the next evening. Standard shipping.

midwesthunter wrote:The steering is stiff now, I'm interested to see how you grease the line easily


Is it the motor pivot or is it in the steering cable? What style steering setup do you have?
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Re: New duck boat build

Postby midwesthunter » Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:54 pm

It is a cable style not the dual cable like yours, but a single cable in a sleeve with an arm connected to the motor that connects to a ram then to the cable.


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Re: New duck boat build

Postby hillbilly.. » Thu Oct 03, 2013 6:43 am

T Man wrote:
midwesthunter wrote:It looks that way t-man. Haven't gotten quite that far yet. On a side note where did you order your new prop for your flat bottom at? The prop on the boat is a little chewed up. Not so bad where it wouldn't work but not an ideal prop. It's a 13 spline prop haven't looked to see what the diameter or pitch are yet though.


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Ive ordered all of mine from iboats.net. They were solas props, ive got a 3 blade and a 4 blade. I lost 2mph over the mercury prop, going from a 10x13 to a 10x13, but I plane out 2 miles slower, and it cost 1/3 the price of the merc prop. I manage to find gravel bars way too easily on the river to run a $180 prop.


you lost 2 miles with a four blade 10x13.
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