I picked up a AA Wigeon this past spring and it is a product of their Gainsvile era. Great boats but they do have their issues if original. First and biggest is the transom. The transom is constructed of plywood sandwiched in between the outer and inner layers of fiberglass. The top is the weak link as the cockpit cover, a separate piece relies on the sealant between the two halfs to seal out all water. Well the sealant with time begins to fail and lets water in and the rot begins. Also, they didn't use a lot of material and the transom is a bit thin, one solid layer of plywood and ad backer board up the middle. I new mine needed replacement and I did so with COOSA board and added additional layers of f. glass on the interior and doubled up on the coosa rather than a single layer with a backer in the middle. Nice part about composite materials is that they can be lifetime. All said and done with coosa, resin, glass, gel coat, brushes, sand paper,bondo, other misc materials and a helper it ran me $450 to rebuild the transom. But that is just transom. Now you will need more marine sealant, rivets, rub rail, s.s. screws, paint and I am sure to be forgetting something. You might also need to buy a few tools like a grinding wheel and plunge cutter to aid in the removal of the old transom. Also, splitting the cockpit from the hull is no easy task as they used 5200 and the you will break through it a half inch at a time using a putty knife. Really a fun off season project and like if you do it yourself you will save a ton of money and paying somebody will make it unaffordable. OH ya forgot about the brass drain tubes, flanging tool and right angle drill for the splash well.
Do a web search on transom replacement, lots of information and you will understand that their are two types of wood transoms, ones that rot and ones that are going to rot. Once the water gets in it stays in and the closed environment with the heat of the summer are prime for wood decay even pressure treated plywood as mine looked like.
Check the floor as it is glass over wood and could be rotten.
The final weak point to the boat is they skimped on glass and this becomes very apparent when the hull is split from the cover. Makes for a nice light weight boat but I would be careful on pulling it up on dry land to hunt from as it will likely stress crack over time.
The stress cracks around cleat look like a bad backing or no backing. That will need to be sanded down to glass, resin, matt, resin, sand, sand smooth, gel coat, sand a bunch of times with wet sand paper going from 200s, 300,400,600 and it should be fine after that. Make sure you prep a large enough area. The nick or ding can be fixed with bondo, sand and gel coat.
All the screws and bolts in transom do not looked like they were sealed and why did somebody beaf up the transom? One piece of metal is not original, the one on the back. Also brass tubes are prone to splitting with time and the seal around them needs yearly sealing from expansion and contraction forces. Again letting more water in, even a small amount is enough to make problems in a few years. My neighbors 7 yr old boat hull is trash from water under the deck rotting the sub floor and stringers.
In my opinion unless the owner is willing to drill the transom to show the integrity I would assume rot. Drill the center and near the lower drain tube. If the wood comes out dark or damp it is junk and unless it is a steal run. i would say if you are handy, read up on f.g. work and dare to do it yourself limit the price to $700 with trailer. The trailer will need work also, new lights, bearings, winch cable, leaf springs, axle and brackets and dry rot on tires and if rims are painted perhaps you will need new ones and if used in salt just bite the bullet and replace hubs. That is what I did, rebuilt entire trailer down to frame and it is like new and I am comfortable towing long distance.