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Boat OverHaul- Finished

5K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  Einstein 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well, here it is. I purchased a 1988 Polar Kraft 1652 last summer. The boat wasn't in bad shape but the trailer was rusted, the motor is a 1974 Evinrude 25hp. The boat would run about 23mph with me, the dog and a full load. After this duck season I did a complete overhaul. First, I overhauled the trailer. Ground off all the paint, built new bunks, new lights, new winch, new jack. Painted with Parker's boat paint in "dead grass" color. Then to the boat, I removed the middle bench seat and built a floor with marine plywood and sealed it with a Thompsons solid stain. The boat got a new gun box welded in, a trolling motor mount, and the whole thing got a paint job. Parker's dead grass for the base coat, then used Natural Gear stencils. The finished product is below. Enjoy!

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#5 ·
dukgtr187 said:
Nice. Im lookin to do a similar set up to mine. How did they plywood floor hold up?
The plywood floor is awesome. I would use at least 1/2". I sealed it with a Thompsons solid stain. Water beads on it. I used a wood bit to take out a little hole where the self drilling screw would sit beneath the surface, and screwed it into the ribs. Solid as a ROCK.
 
#6 ·
dsdstoffel said:
Good job getting ready to do the same paint job on by 1648 any tips?
I got the base coat of paint super clean. I did not strip it nor did I sand it. Just got it super clean with a degreaser and pressure washer. I applied Parker's boat paint thinned to 10% with a gravity feed sprayer from harbor freight. Worked like an absolute charm. I'm not sure how long Parker's recommends letting it dry, but I let it dry a week before applying the stencils.
 
#7 ·
will1515 said:
How did you attach the rear seat?

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Very carefully. I put the seat at the very back of the bench. I applied the swivel first, using self drillign screws, then used turned the swivel so that I could put the seat on top and screw in the bolts into the seat.
 
#9 ·
dukgtr187 said:
When you took out the middle seat did you notice any flexing or it get structually weaker?
To be honest, I was really worried it would structurally weaken the boat. It 100% did not. I honestly believe it made it stronger. First, the seat was NOT attached to the bottom, just riveted to the sides. When I took it out I had the rivet holes welded shut and then cut the plywood so it would be a TIGHT fit to the sides. Then, I put the foam insulation around the gap so nothing would fall beneath the floor. THEN, I used self-drilling screws to secure the floor to the bottom ribs, which doesn't allow the boat to flex AT ALL. Whereas before the ribs wouold flex, they do not at all now.
 
#11 ·
dukgtr187 said:
Ok good to know. I will be starting on my boat in a few weeks once I get home from deployment, I like the layout of your boat damn near the same floor plan i had in mind. Is there anything you would have done differently with what you know now?
There is, don't make the gun box too wide. mine is 10". Make it just wide enough so the battery fits snug (if that's where you want to put your battery). Do all the wiring first, and put it in between the ribs and beneath the wood. Wire a switch panel, it makes things much, much easier. I welded the gun box in between the two large ribs, so it's solid as a rock. I made the gun box long enough that I use it as a rod locker during the summer, that was a good idea if I do say so myself. BEFORE you mount any seats to the boat, go out on the water and get people to stand, or sit, where you would want to put the seats to make sure the boat could get on plane where people are sitting. This is one thing I didn't do and I had to move the seats around a few inches and put unnecessary holes in the wood.
 
#12 ·
Einstein said:
will1515 said:
How did you attach the rear seat?

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Very carefully. I put the seat at the very back of the bench. I applied the swivel first, using self drillign screws, then used turned the swivel so that I could put the seat on top and screw in the bolts into the seat.
What size self tapping screws? I got mine attached with 4 of those and they came loose and I went a size up and after about 2 hours of trolling the front 2 snapped out. May just use the biggest size I can and not use the other holes already there.

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#13 ·
will1515 said:
Einstein said:
will1515 said:
How did you attach the rear seat?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very carefully. I put the seat at the very back of the bench. I applied the swivel first, using self drillign screws, then used turned the swivel so that I could put the seat on top and screw in the bolts into the seat.
What size self tapping screws? I got mine attached with 4 of those and they came loose and I went a size up and after about 2 hours of trolling the front 2 snapped out. May just use the biggest size I can and not use the other holes already there.

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I'm not exactly sure what size they were. I can definitely say use the biggest width you can, and about 1-3/4" length. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. That's the key. If you overtighten it, then it makes it much easier for the screws to pull out, as the screw hole has already been "reamed". Just get it snug and stop. Mine's done really well with that method. I can lean back and turn and swivel and it does not move.
 
#14 ·
What were your thoughts on the Marine Grade Plywood vs an aluminum floor?

I'm thinking about adding a floor to my jon boat this summer and it seems like either option would be about the same cost, particularly if I could get a good piece of scrap aluminum. Your finished product looks great, very professional job. Just wondering if you had considered the alternative before going with the plywood.
 
#15 ·
agtex42 said:
What were your thoughts on the Marine Grade Plywood vs an aluminum floor?

I'm thinking about adding a floor to my jon boat this summer and it seems like either option would be about the same cost, particularly if I could get a good piece of scrap aluminum. Your finished product looks great, very professional job. Just wondering if you had considered the alternative before going with the plywood.
I definitely considered both. I actually had both for free, scrap aluminum and plywood. I chose the plywood simply because the cost to have a welder to install and weld the aluminum was way more than I was willing to pay. He gave me an extraordinary deal (no labor) for the gun box and transom mount, and was going to for the floor, but the his cost to weld the aluminum was more than I was willing to pay. Also keep in mind your going to need to put something on top of the aluminum. Hydro-Turf or the equivalent for the boat would have added another cost, whereas the wood is already extremely quiet and cool during hot summer days when I'm fishing barefoot. Aluminum not so much.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the input! Scrap metal and Sears EVA foam would probably be the route I'd go if I were to pull the trigger on aluminum although I'd likely just rivet/screw it in place instead of welding. I'd much rather just go with the wood floor for the reasons you listed but part of the problem is that I've only got a 15 horse pushing the whole rig. There's definitely a fine line between all the "nice to haves" and insuring the boat's functional without turning it into a complete dog!

Nice job on the build and thanks again for the feedback.
 
#17 ·
agtex42 said:
Thanks for the input! Scrap metal and Sears EVA foam would probably be the route I'd go if I were to pull the trigger on aluminum although I'd likely just rivet/screw it in place instead of welding. I'd much rather just go with the wood floor for the reasons you listed but part of the problem is that I've only got a 15 horse pushing the whole rig. There's definitely a fine line between all the "nice to haves" and insuring the boat's functional without turning it into a complete dog!

Nice job on the build and thanks again for the feedback.
Yea, a 15 horse would be a little small pushing a lot of weight! Any questions just ask!
 
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