Another boat build

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Re: Another boat build

Postby MeatBuck » Thu May 18, 2017 10:51 am

Y the carpet?.... looks great when new but it holds water, rots, turns to dust, then looks like crap. Ok for a garage kept bass boat but the last thing you want in a waterfowl application imo. Especially when water means weight and with 3guys,(a dog) and gear...well u get where I'm going.
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Re: Another boat build

Postby Weedwacker » Fri May 19, 2017 6:02 am

atownducks wrote:
Pecski wrote:tracker toppers scare me. they are such thin aluminum. id be weary to add any wood to the boat for fear of rubbing or weakening it with denting.


I feel you there. I think they use .063 gauge aluminum in these boats which isn't the strongest, but then again, I'm not hunting any big water or timber so I don't really have to worry about that. It's all fairly flat water, short runs (within a mile) and muddy/sandy bottoms. Maybe I'll throw some extra carpet under that switch box to absorb rubbing/high impacts while driving just for good measure.

Anyways picked up some self-etching primer, hinges and short screws so hopefully I'll have this bad boy ready by this weekend if the weather holds out here in VA. I have about 3 spray cans of primer and I think 3 spray cans of paint. Doubt I can finish the whole inside with that, but we'll see. Pics tomorrow


My experience with less than 100 gauge is the twist and bend of the boat. You may not be "worried" but put weight in the boat hang a mud motor off the back and .063 will twist and flex, not in a good way.

Your doing a lot of good work to personalize your boat, kudos to you. Just be aware of what your limitations are with the platform you started with. Be safe.
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Re: Another boat build

Postby atownducks » Fri May 19, 2017 7:15 am

MeatBuck wrote:Y the carpet?.... looks great when new but it holds water, rots, turns to dust, then looks like crap. Ok for a garage kept bass boat but the last thing you want in a waterfowl application imo. Especially when water means weight and with 3guys,(a dog) and gear...well u get where I'm going.

Why not? I had some laying around from the previous owner. I'll throw a tarp over it when I'm not using it. Didn't feel like buying anything extra to make my switch box with and I couldn't care less if the back covers rot off. If it starts holding water or rotting, I'll pull it. No skin off my back. I don't think an extra 2 pounds of water is going to make or break my season
Weedwacker wrote:My experience with less than 100 gauge is the twist and bend of the boat. You may not be "worried" but put weight in the boat hang a mud motor off the back and .063 will twist and flex, not in a good way.
Your doing a lot of good work to personalize your boat, kudos to you. Just be aware of what your limitations are with the platform you started with. Be safe.

Thanks man. I won't be running this too hard. Yes I have a mud motor, but it's only for cruising over sand bars and mud when the water gets thin. I'm not hitting waves at 30 mph or cruising over oyster beds. I'll make sure to keep that in mind though
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Re: Another boat build

Postby mudpack » Fri May 19, 2017 7:31 am

atownducks wrote: I cringed almost the entire time because of left over dirt, small patches of adhesive, and the inconsistency of a rattle can spray. Being a bit of a perfectionist, I had to remind myself over and over again that it's just a jon boat and it's going to get beat to sheet. Also reminded myself that sanding the entire boat down to the metal would take me a ridiculous amount of time, so whatever I know it's 100% my fault when the paint starts failing at those rough parts.


You said something different before:
atownducks wrote:.... to get the carpet adhesive off and it was an extremely slow and arduous process. I ended up using the sanding attachment on my grinder which was the best decision I could have made. I did the entire boat in about an hour.


So, did you or did you not sand the entire boat??? :huh:
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Re: Another boat build

Postby atownducks » Fri May 19, 2017 8:34 am

Whoops. I meant I sanded the entire boat free from carpet adhesive. I wasn't messing with the floors or bench seats unless it had adhesive all over it.
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Re: Another boat build

Postby atownducks » Fri May 19, 2017 8:43 am

Did some work last night. Picked up the bench seat cover, had to do some cuts to make it fit snug, sanded it, riveted it in, primed and painted it. Looks good. Installed hinges on the storage covers and beefed up the switch panel box with some 90 degree aluminum left over from the previous owner. Mounted the depth finder and am doing some electrical work today. Took @Darryle's advice and picked up some heat shrink tubing bc I don't want to mess with the electrical more than once. Now the pics...

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Re: Another boat build

Postby atownducks » Mon May 22, 2017 8:04 am

Finished my electrical work and mounted the engine. I heat shrunk all my wire ends and doubled over with electrical tape just for good measure. Mounted the depth finder to the back, plugged all holes with silicone, painted the light bar/nav light and put the majority of my gear in the boat. Engine fired right up, all electronics work and we're water ready!

The one issue I think I'm going to face is the back of the boat being too heavy. I moved my gas tank up behind my first bench seat and have to keep my battery in the back right storage compartment (Something where 4 ga battery wire shouldn't be longer than 5-6 ft if going to the engine). I think when trailering I'm going to keep this bird bath I had laying around in the front of my boat on pads and put the tank all the way up front. Any suggestions to re-distributing weight when trailering? Don't want my back vibrating or swaying when I'm driving.

Here are the pics from this weekend. Enjoy!

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Re: Another boat build

Postby Smoke68 » Mon May 22, 2017 8:19 am

That's a lot of progress in a short time. Looks good! Here's a couple of thoughts from a guy who is procrastinating like craze on getting started on his own crap.......

1. I like the location of the fuel tank. I suggest cleaning up the wiring in the box with the switch board and moving your battery there, strapping it down securely of course. Will help further with weight distribution and it will serve as the storage location for an item not needing to be taken in/out, something desirable for that spot since it has wiring to get hung on. It will free up the rear storage for those types of things.

Thanks for all the pics. I'll try to do the same.
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Re: Another boat build

Postby dasimmon » Mon May 22, 2017 8:53 am

man that was a quick project for you! looks great!
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Re: Another boat build

Postby atownducks » Mon May 22, 2017 9:55 am

Smoke68 wrote:That's a lot of progress in a short time. Looks good! Here's a couple of thoughts from a guy who is procrastinating like craze on getting started on his own crap.......

1. I like the location of the fuel tank. I suggest cleaning up the wiring in the box with the switch board and moving your battery there, strapping it down securely of course. Will help further with weight distribution and it will serve as the storage location for an item not needing to be taken in/out, something desirable for that spot since it has wiring to get hung on. It will free up the rear storage for those types of things.

Thanks man. So I want to move the battery up front to redistribute the weight evenly but my engine user manual and battery gauge/length guides say to not have my 4 ga wire be longer than 7 feet. If I ran it from my switch box to my engine it'd be like 10 ft. Probably wouldn't really affect anything having a few extra feet of battery cable, but I've been stranded a few miles from the boat ramp with electric problems on my old 16 ft and that won't happen again. I want to make sure I'm getting the proper amperage to the starter when I turn the key and sacrificing potentially 90 amps isn't worth it. I have a 10 ft battery cable laying around so I might play around with the idea.
dasimmon wrote:man that was a quick project for you! looks great!

Thanks bud. Took some planning but it was a fun project! Next move might be to get a bilge pump. Haven't made my mind up
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Re: Another boat build

Postby Sandor27 » Tue May 23, 2017 6:40 am

For what it's worth, my 1436MV has 8ga wire from the battery in the bow to the motor and I have never had any problems cranking the 15hp Johnson or my 6.5 mudmotor. It's probably a 15' wire run, so 30' total. I have a 40Amp fuse on the + line.

If you know your stater amps, use this chart to determine gage needed for your run length.

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity
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Re: Another boat build

Postby umahunter » Thu May 25, 2017 11:24 pm

Looks great but ditch the white foam it will soak up water like a sponge use blue or pink the white foam is water is water resistant but it's made up of millions of tiny beads which suck up water in all the tiny lil spaces take a dry piece put it in a bucket under water for a week and weigh it and it will add a bit of weight
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Re: Another boat build

Postby Bullfrog26692 » Fri May 26, 2017 1:12 am

image.jpeg


In this picture there is a cut out under the bench seat from the previous owner. That would drive me nuts. Do you have a piece of aluminum you can rivet over that? I also agree with moving the battery into the electrical box. Tie those wires up real nice and it would be at home in there. The extra few feet won't hurt you ( I'm not a pro, but I've seen batteries ran further than that). As far as getting stranded, I always carry a jumper box with me, I've been stuck dead in the water too. I hate to say it, but the guys are right. That foam in there is no bueno. It sucks you already have the bench down, but seriously get that stuff out of there. It won't go to waste, it will make great burlap covered foam decoys. If you like projects foam decoys are really fun to make. To avoid spending more money, rummage the recycling bins on trash day. 2 liter soda bottles are super buoyant and you won't have to pull up your aluminum bench supports. Cram it full and buy 1 can of spray foam. Empty the entire can into every crevice you can find to keep them from rattling around. As quick as you flipped this boat you could throw it on CL and buy a nicer fixer upper with the dividends. With as quick as you are, you can probably upgrade 2 or 3 times before duck season. Seriously something to consider. Now is the time that boats sell quick.

On a side note...I like the beer mug in the first picture, you have your priorities straight. Lose the lady flavored Grizzly pouches and get yourself some Copenhagen straight long cut. Project will take 20% less time when you're amped up on that chit.
gooosehunter wrote:I dont always shoot ducks, but when I do, it's dos duckies.
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Don't worry about your foam

Postby Sandor27 » Fri May 26, 2017 5:43 am

I have to disagree on the foam worries. Yes, the white foam is prone to absorbing water. BUT, only when it is submerged in water. People have problems when the foam is below the floor. Water pools there and the foam wicks it up while the boat sits between hunts and between rainstorms. Your foam is ABOVE the floor and therefore will only see water when you wash down the boat or it rains. Don't worry about your white foam in this configuration, and make sure you park the boat with the plug OUT.

When you are done patching the prev owner's f-ups, make sure you go over all the new exposed edges with a file or sandpaper. I had a single location on a bench seat where a sheet metal screw had previously been, the only sharp spot on the boat. Well, breathable waders and sharp spots don't mix...

Keep us posted. Good work.
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Worry about cuts

Postby mudpack » Fri May 26, 2017 6:30 am

Sandor27 wrote:When you are done patching the prev owner's f-ups, make sure you go over all the new exposed edges with a file or sandpaper.

I agree. Anything that can catch a cotton glove can and will cut you or your expensive hunting apparel.
Areas where old sheet metal screws have been removed can be especially insidious.
I tend to be anal about this.
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