fill me in on something

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fill me in on something

Postby openwaterhunter2 » Fri Dec 30, 2005 5:05 pm

Okay I have a question or three. (told ya I would have questions :mrgreen: )


In the video I got today it didn't dimenstrate how to use the ducks skull. In the instructions I have, it talks about how you have to make an insision on the side of the head somewhere inorder to get the skull out and that's pretty much it.

No.1 I figure I have to pull the skull out of that insision to clean it. I don't cut the skin around the beak do I? It needs to be left connected the way I figured it.

No.2. How do I preserve the tounge and the skin under the beak?

No.3 Is a fake head better than the real skull?
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Postby openwaterhunter2 » Sat Dec 31, 2005 8:06 am

Well I just went ahead and ordered a fake head. I also went ahead and skinned out my hen jack to see how I would do. Skinning it was alright. I was alittle slow but took my time, only cutting two small holes. :thumbsup: Then the fleshing wasn't all that bad but I held it to tight and lost some feathers :pissed: Not many though. Washing it was a breeze and I got it pretty dang clean. Blow drying it hurt it took so long. :thumbsdown: I got it fluffed up good and put some presevative on it and stuck it in the fridge down stairs. Will it be okay to leave it till I get my head in? I liken the thuffness of the skin to a muskrat or alittle thinner. Not impossible to work but very delicate. I think I will get the skinning and fleshing part down and quicker (4 hours from the time the knife hit the skin to sticking it in the fridge) it's the getting it anatomicly correct I am worried about.
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Postby Pete-pec » Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:53 pm

Well. I came home from ice-fishing last night, and replied to your post. The only problem is I had too many Bytes to allow it to send. I lost the entire thing, and am not going to repeat myself now. It seems you did what I was going to suggest, doing your bird with the artificial head. The skin you have in the fridge needs to go in the freezer. You didn't need to put the presevative on there quite yet. It will start to dry out the skin, and by the time you get your head for your mount, the skin may start to decay a bit. It shouldn't be a problem if you plan on getting that head soon (you probably have a week before you have to worry, but I really have no experience on this to actually say for sure). What I typically do on my birds is skin the bird. You can either stop here and freeze the skin, or you can continue to flesh it. You can stop here, but again you will need to freeze it, or you can wash and degrease it and use something that has a bit (I repeat, a bit) of peroxide in it. This will get rid of any blood stains, and make the colors look vibrant. Once the skin is completely void of grease and suds etc., I will leave the skin wet at this point if I'm going to freeze it, or I will continue to mount the bird. If I'm going to mount the bird, I will towel dry the skin then soak it in odorless mineral spirits to evacuate the water out of the skin. The next step is to towel dry the skin, then to the tumbler using corn cob grit. I'll tumble a small duck for 6 to 10 minutes, not to curl the primary feathers and so I don't break down the feathers from their original shape. Now I'll blow dry with either a shop vac in reverse or an air compressor, or a hair drier on low/no heat and dry it till the down of the bird is nice and fluffy. You don't want to over-dry the skin, because you'll need it plyable for the running of wires and attaching the skin to the head etc. The last thing I put on my bird is dry preservatives ( fine sifted Borax) right before I start the process of running the wires for the neck/head and feet and wings.

You can still get your bird wet again at this point if you have to freeze it. Just go through the same washing process that you did before. The DP should wash out just fine.

If you have any more questions, I'll be back some time today, and I can give you my best advise.

-Pete
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