I've never used the artificial neck for a goose, but I believe they are flexable. I've used the artificial neck for turkeys, and they work great, and are indeed flexable. I believe it states if they are flexable or not. On my geese and ducks, I've always used foam necking material. I believe it is easier to get the correct length and thickness of each perticular bird. I'ts kind of like the artificial heads and bodies. Very seldom do they fit like they should. If you are doing a standing bird you will want a heavy gauge wire for the support on it's base. I would use a 10 or 8 on the legs for a standing mount. For a flying mount, I'd use a 12 for the legs, and 10 or 12 for the wings. I suppose for the neck, I'd use 12 or 13 if you can find it. If I was going to support the full wing completely spread, I'd go with the heavier wire of course. I will tell you a big difference in a duck -VS- a goose, the amount of fat usually on a goose is much heavier. When you flesh the bird use extreme caution when removing fat with the wheel, the skin is very thin, and just under the last bit of fat, and poof! Burn through! One other note, since you have mounted other birds, remember to actually measure the bird body, and try to pre-fit the artificial head, neck, and body before leaping in on a mount only to find that the stuff doesn't fit correctly. I mounted a Pintail today, and had to grind the artificial head down to make it fit, and the form I used was actually intended for a Wigeon, and if I was using an artificial neck, I can guarantee it would have never fit. The neck was as thin as a Bluewing Teal. Thank goodness I have alot of different supplies on hand. If I had placed an order for my Pintail from what the book had suggested, I would have been screwed right in the middle of taxiing that bird. The good thing is I live fifteen minutes away from 2 taxidermy supply companies, but not everyone has that luxery.