Third bird... Shoveler

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Third bird... Shoveler

Postby sprigpig1 » Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:19 pm

He is still drying (obviously) and in all honesty should have never been a flying bird. I had to super glue fragments of wing bone together and splint them with wire. In the pic his right wing is off because of this defect. I later fixed it after the picture ( to lazy to take another one). Let em rip fellas any feedback much appreciated. :yes:

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Re: Third bird... Shoveler

Postby duxrus » Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:50 pm

For starters he looks to have been killed by Pygmies and their blow darts...haha

The eye stands out for me. It should be partially open instead of wide open. I would guess you are using the BIG glass eyes where as I love the acrylic with smaller pupils. The larger ones very rarely look "real". IMO

It looks like your secondaries are more spread than the primaries. It should be the reverse in most instances.

To keep both wings at the same "level" you need to card the bottoms. By doing that you can adjust each as needed.

I will stay away from saying" for your third duck...." and just say good job...period. :thumbsup:
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Re: Third bird... Shoveler

Postby Cougar125 » Sun Feb 10, 2013 9:38 pm

I see what dux is saying about the eye. I think if you were doing an alert standing mount then the eye wouldn't stand out as much...but hey...you're third bird and I'm still in the skinning/fleshing stages. Good job.
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Re: Third bird... Shoveler

Postby Pete-pec » Mon Feb 11, 2013 8:45 am

Good job period! The bird looks better than mine! The bird I just posted was an absolute nightmare of a test. 99% of the world would have dumped it!

They eyes that Brian is talking about is only the pupil. When a bird flies, their eyes are very alert. I looked up several reference pictures, and they were almost always wide-eyed! The trade off to using another apex eye, is often times the eyes are too large for some birds. I do a different method to my eyes where I actually make the eye ring on the eye with sculpt, and then paint it. Then I take and make a plug out of sculpt that sits on the bottom of the eye. I will recess the eye on the artificial head, fill it with "wet" sculpt, and plug the eye into the socket. You can't normally do that with a 9mm eye, and most of the good European eyes are 9mm at their smallest. The trade off is finding an eye with a small pupil, and is smaller (mm) for your liking. That will normally be a cheap glass eye, with a large pupil. I live near a McKenzie warehouse, and they will let me pick out my own driftwood, and tour their warehouse, and the next time I go, I'm going to see if there is an eye with a small pupil, that is smaller than 9mm. I don't care if the eye is apex or not honestly, I just want a small pupil. I can find cheap eyes for a buck a pair, but their pupils are huge. I may buy plain-non painted eyes, and make my own if I can't find them smaller.
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Re: Third bird... Shoveler

Postby duxrus » Mon Feb 11, 2013 10:30 am

Yes, I ment the BIG pupil ones just stand out...but also remember that the "eye" does have some shape to it once set correctly. It shouldn't look completely round and has a certain amount of tapering to the front end. Yellow eyes just magnify everything being they are so bright to begin with .
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Re: Third bird... Shoveler

Postby Pete-pec » Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:00 am

Agree Brian. I always make an eye ring. Here is some from three years ago when I first started making them for my plug in method. These are cheap 1 dollar a pair eyes, and as you can see, I was still in the learning process. I now make the eye ring much thinner. It was something I was experimenting with, and these are surly way too thick, but as you can see, Brian is right. They need some shape. I give them a nictitating membrane with paint, a duct, and a ring now, and wow, are they Way too easy to use plugging them in! Sometimes an artificial head will be slightly larger than you like, and when you glue your skin to that juncture at the bill, a pre-set eye will not fit well, due to the lack of stretch available on the head's skin. Now with a larger bored eye hole, filled with apoxie sculpt, ready for me to plug in the eye, is so easy to balance one side to the other. They may not be perfect anatomically speaking, but balance in my eye, and ease make up for that shortcoming, and we're talking about millimeters here, and I never need to use a pin. Of course using the original head certainly alleviates the eye alignment problem, but stitching in the head is something I haven't mastered. Brian has this figured out! The great thing about it is, once again, this proves that we all do this taxidermy thing a bit different from the next guy, and that's perfectly fine!
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Re: Third bird... Shoveler

Postby sprigpig1 » Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:46 pm

Thanks again for all of the feedback guys..

Dux- totally makes sense about carding the underside of the wing( I taped the underside as well to a temp wire) I will try this on my next bird. Got a widgeon on deck. I will try using a smaller pupil on the next spoon I do. I got five more of them in the freezer.

Pete- better? I don't know about that but thanks brother. Couldn't have turned out as good with out me bothering you and a couple other guys for tips and info. And I really appreciate that. I like the eye ring building idea and will definitely try that so my bird doesn't look so bug eyed! Lol

Thanks again fellas :beer:
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Re: Third bird... Shoveler

Postby Pete-pec » Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:27 pm

I take a piece of waxed paper, and mix tow part apoxie sculpt, and make a bb sized ball. I press the eye over it, the ring will surround the eye, then I use a wet tool (keeps the sculpting clay from sticking) and sort of wrap that around the eye lifting it upward. I shape the duct as well. The rings are very thin, so go much thinner than these I have shown. These were in the trial years. you can allow the apoxie sculpt to harden slightly, and then take a sharp scalpel blade, and shave the thickness away until you get the desired thickness/thinness. After they have dried overnight, you can paint them with a very fine camel haired brush. The last thing I do, is make a plug out of apoxie sculpt that I stick to the bottom of the eye, and shape it conical and allow it to dry. This allows you to stick the hardened point in the socket, and maneuver the eye to make both eyes even. When I make a ring this way, I am actually making the eye appear as if the lid is attached to the skin. When it is plugged in, the ring presses against the skin of the eye, and then that skin presses to the "wet" apoxie sculpt that is in the socket. The skin is sandwiched between the ring and the socket filled with 'wet" sculpt. You will not have the eye under the skin, therefore you will not be using such a large eye. I normally use an 8mm eye as the standard size for almost any species of duck. I hope you can visualize that this eye is actually on the outside of the skin, versus the standard method of being it being under the skin.

It is just my method, and I don't pretend that it is the best. It just happens to be the shortcut I prefer.

Yes, your bird looks better than mine. I'm sure you were one of those kids in school who had their artwork in the showcase most of the time. I can see artistic potential when I see it. You are going to be a great bird taxidermist in the future. :thumbsup:
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Re: Third bird... Shoveler

Postby sprigpig1 » Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:58 pm

Lol!!!nope Barely graduated....(to much skipping class to go chase ducks :no: )just been obsessed with ducks and taxidermy from a very young age. But thanks for the kind words.

Makes total sense about the eye lids and I have some apoxy sculpt already from doing some cork decoys. The eyes I have been using already have a plug so I will have to form the eye lid and nictating membrane another way. But anyway, thanks a million Pete :thumbsup:
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