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Casting my own Decoys

6K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  20bolt 
#1 ·
Do you think this plan will work/is worth the effort?
Yes861.54%
No538.46%
 
#2 ·
Problem:
Goose Decoys cost way to much.

Solution:
Cast my own decoys out of expandable foam.

My plan is to use one of the goose decoys that I have as a master, and to make a negative of it with fiberglass.
1. Coat decoy in wax.
2. Wrap fiberglass/epoxy around the decoy to make a shell.
3. Carefully cut the shell away to have a negative of the decoy.
Cost: ~$30 for 3 poses

Making the Decoys
4. Drill a few holes in the shell to inject foam.
5. Partially fill the shell with packing peanuts to save on cost
6. Assemble the shell
7. Inject the shell with 1 can of spray foam
Cost: $25 for 27cubic feet of peanut (enough for ~25 decoys)
$8 for spray foam per can (not in bulk, so I am sure this is high)

So for about $255 I figure I can get 25 decoys in different poses

Does this sound crazy to anyone, and does anyone see any problems?

Thanks
 
#3 ·
Dude, I'm rootin' for ya. I hope this plan works, and it sounds like it will. You may have to do a little shaping or shaving with a rap when it's all done. But the theory is solid enough so I would try it. Let me know how it turns out, I'll try the same thing with duck decoys if it work for you. :thumbsup:
 
#4 ·
So I changed my method. I am now making the mold from plaster because it is cheaper, and easier to clean up.

I first wrapped the decoys in Suran Wrap, and then made a parting line from cardboard. I think this will help me separate the the two halves. I then taped the cardboard in place, using more tape on the bottom, as this is the side that will not really be seen.



*note- if you try this be sure the molds can pull apart and that you have no undercuts. The best way to do this is to follow the mfg seam.



I then covered one side in low shrink plaster. After this dries, I will cover the plaster in quick set concrete for strength. And the I will start on the other half.

 
#8 ·
It looks like your casting shell.

If you want solid decoys you can use EPS pellets and then they go into boiling water with the mold, but they ussualy use metal molds. I don't know how fiberglass would do at 220 in boiling water.
 
#9 ·
*****PROGRESS UPDATE***

For the past couple of days, I have been routinely adding thin layers of plaster. Tonight I hope to add a finish layer of thick Portland cement. This will make the outsides of the molds rock solid. I will update again on Sunday with the next step
 
#10 ·
I appreciate your enthusiasm and I hope it works. If your only goal is to reduce cost I think when you weigh the time it is going to take you to get a decent looking decoy it is not going to be worth it.

HOWEVER, if you enjoy doing this work and it is a relaxing hobby, I say go for it full throttle and I wish you luck. :thumbsup:
 
#11 ·
Looks great. Back before foam decoys we had a alum mold made loacally. We used reject from the local Chemical plant which we got free. It worked great. The decoys worked great until we left them in the sun one summer and they grew on us ending up with fat, obese decoys. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Ned S who still has the mold.
 
#12 ·
So to everyone that voted no, Contrats your pessimism was right on. The molds broken when I was removing the decoys. This spring I am going to give it another shot, but for now, I am working on designing an ultralight tree stand.

Failure is rough.
 
#13 ·
You better be careful with that tree stand design or you "failure is Rough" statement may be more true than you think.

Aluminum square tube and bolts are easy to get and model after some others. If you go with the cable the connectors on the cable is what will probably give you the most trouble.

Don't stop dreaming, people like us make the world a better place. :thumbsup:

Never stop and never give up! But some times it easier to walk around the wall than bang your head on it. :tongue:
 
#14 ·
I also wanted to add. Next time I would get some mold release and fiberglass mat and maybe a setting mixture of epoxy or a type of resin for your mold.

Read up on Fiberglass molds.
 
#15 ·
I also wanted to add. Next time I would get some mold release and fiberglass mat and maybe a setting mixture of epoxy or a type of resin for your mold.
I actually have all of that stuff. I made an canoe this summer with a male mold. It turned out ok, but my "eye" is a little be off, so there is about a 1" drift from center plane down the length of the boat.

You better be careful with that tree stand design or you "failure is Rough" statement may be more true than you think.
I maybe the only person on this forum with 20x more $$ tied up in climbing than hunting. I am really just planning on building a mini port-a-ledge, that cams to the tree like most climbing tree stands

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... n%26sa%3DN

I will put some pictures of it later
 
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