My snares are made of 3/32 7x7 galvanized aircraft cable and can be used for anything from fox to wolves.
A length of about 31.5 inches will give you a loop of about an 8 inch diameter which should be fine for 'yotes.
Other supplies will be aluminum stop buttons for the cable. I also like to use the whammy springs. There are also a bunch of different types of locks out there and like the cam locks. A spool of galvanized 9 gauge wire is also needed as a support. Depending on your state's regulations, you may need to have a deep stop or break away. My state doesn't have such a requirement so I'm not brushed up on that type of info.
As for setting them up-
- Start with the 9 gauge wire, length about 6 feet. There is a tool on fntpost you can get or have a long nail and make a really tight pig tail at least 3 full wraps. Cut off excess. On the other end of the wire, make a loop, again with at least 3 fairly tight twists. Around a broom stick usually works.
- Cut a piece of cable about 31.5 inches. Stick one end through the pigtail of the 9 gauge wire., put on the stop button and either use a crimper or smash it with a hammer. The stop button should not go through the pigtail or else it will be useless. Be sure you crimp those buttons good too. With the other end, slide the lock on and the other end of the wire through the other hole. Becareful and test it out because with some stops, they only travel one way and should close smoothly. Add the whammy spring and the stop button to the end of the cable. You now have a snare ready for use.
- Placement of the snares should be in chokepoints of established trails. Depending on the average size of the coyotes over there, the height may be from 8 to 10 inches from the ground. Even add a little brush to keep the critter from going around. Find something sturdy to attach the snare too. Nothing flimsy. Wrap the snare around the object with the snare going though the loop of the 9 gauge wire. Open snare fully and along the route of travel. Have some light brush combed over the snare to prevent the animal from jumping over the snare and a twig about 4 inches high to keep the animal from ducking under. The snare is now working.
- Be advised, the animal in the snare will most likely be dead when you find it. The animal can be non-targets so use common sense and let people that may be in the area know. Snares are also a numbers game. Use lots! They are relatively cheap and easy to carry. In a backpack alone you can carry a few dozen.
- Canines are notoriously wary of foreign odors. Keep human scent down to a minimum. No need to dye the snares (it impairs the moving parts) but use gloves that you will use for nothing but building snares and another set for nothing but making sets. Don't smoke, chew, pee or give them any idea you were there. Only leave footprints, and even then when I leave the cabin, I spray the bottom of my boots with watered down bleach. NO FOREIGN SMELLS!!!
- If it is legal to use bait, find a clump of trees and set snares all around it, but not to close to the bait. Make it a heaping pile of leftover fish carcasses, chicken feathers, gut piles, whatever you can find. Set the snares in layers, if he misses the first one, you may get him again in the next layer. This may mean moving lots of brush to cut down a wide open area impossible to snare or pick out the brush accordingly. It depends on the vegetation in your area.
- Check the snares regularly, but from a little bit of a distance. Wind plays havoc with snares, adjust accordingly. Don't spend anymore time near the set than you have to.
- Trapping is a real test of patience and nerves. Experience is the best teacher. Don't expect snares to be full everytime or even for a long while. Try and see what the animal is doing. Read tracks. Did the animal hesitate, did he automatically go around. Being able to see what the animal is doing when he isn't physically there and figuring out why he did it will make you a better trapper.