replacing front rotors on a F150

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replacing front rotors on a F150

Postby kms399 » Fri Feb 01, 2008 5:11 pm

I have never done any car work other than oil changes and basic maintenence, how tuff is it to replace the rotors? i just had the brakes done and the truck is shuddering when i stop so i am pretty sure it is the rotors they are the originals and i have 90,000 miles on the truck. I would like to start doing my own work as i am quite broke and kind of enjoy it. is there any web sites that would be helpful. has any one ever used the alldata website before?


oh yeah if it helps it is an 02' F150 extended cab 5.4L triton v-8 4X4
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f-150 rotors

Postby rmh » Sat Feb 02, 2008 1:36 pm

If you just had the brakes done the tech should have inspected the rotors and turned them if they were out of true. Your shuddering might be cause by not putting the gluey stuff on the back of the pads when they were replaced, that will sometimes cause a shuddering. If the rotors are out of round a bit they might not need replaced, just turned which a machine shop or garage could do, my garage here (SO MD) does it for $20 or so per rotor. I think the flat rate on rotor replacement is like 3/4 hour per, I'd double that if I'd never done it before and have a buddy close that can help. I'm not a mechanic, just have way too many brake eating Fords.


AllData only has lists of TSB/recalls, you have to subscribe to get into the technicals. You could buy a Chilton's Manual, they cover darn near everything on a vehicle. I have an '03 F-150 w/83K on it, but rear wheel drive. Goes through front pads every 20,000. No rotor trouble yet but that seems to be an issue with 4WD.
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Postby fowl_wishes » Sat Feb 02, 2008 2:07 pm

As tated above the rotors may be thick enough to be resurfaced on a a brake lathe. But you may want to price a new set of rotors versus the cost of removing and resurfacing your old ones. Some times the price different aint that much. And new is always better than resurfaced.


As far as how to replace them, that is pretty simple. The only bad thing is that the rotors tend to stick to the hubs on those trucks. I have had two Ford trucks fo that body style and they both did it.
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Postby KCDuckMaster » Sat Feb 02, 2008 4:24 pm

Ya replacing the pads and rotors is no sweat. If you want a manual I would recommend a Chilton's but Alldata is great if you wanna pay for it.

fowl_wishes wrote:And new is always better than resurfaced.


I would disagree some with that. Don't get me wrong there is nothing wrong with new rotors or drums, but sometimes on problem cars, resurfacing is the way to go. Because as the miles are put on the car the pads wear and the rotors become impregnated with brake dust. although turning removes some of the dust and metal, there will still be brake dust in the metal. What this does is it helps wear in the pads and helps keep the noise down. Also turning them while they are still on the car has a better chance of removing pulsation.

But sometimes its cheaper to buy new rotors than is it to pay a tech to turn them. If your doing it yourself I would just get new, unless your were going to pay to have them turned, because I wouldn't trust the high school kid behind the counter of auto zone to do the job right.
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Postby ajmorell » Sat Feb 02, 2008 6:48 pm

Really the only real way to go is to replace both the rotors and the pads. Warped rotors will kill your pads and vice versa. As far as replacing them, it's pretty basic. Pull the wheel off, pull out the 2 caliper slides and pry the caliper off. Some vehicles involve a little more than that but they are all pretty much the same. Realistically if you continue to get warped rotors, it isn't the rotors or pads that are the problem, it is most likely the calipers. As far as the rotors sticking to the hubs, there are a few tricks to get them off. The first it to give them a good whack with a hammer right between the lug studs. The second is to spray the crap out of them with PB Blaster and try the above method again. The last and final method is to take a propane torch to them and heat them up to break the rust free. After they are good and hot, hit them with a hammer and they should break loose. If none of the above appear to work, be persistent, they will come off.
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Postby Montanafowler » Sat Feb 02, 2008 8:26 pm

why bother with a Hayne's or Chilton's manual? get a shop manual on your specific make and model, it will have everything about that vehicle and tell you how to do stuff and what tools you need. i just bought one off ebay for my '69 ford.
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