????? about a broadhead

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????? about a broadhead

Postby lucky » Tue Aug 28, 2007 12:30 pm

what will fly right with a 45to 60 pound bow that will fly like a feild tip any hep pls a 100 gr thanks
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Postby phutch30 » Tue Aug 28, 2007 1:21 pm

just about every expandable head will fly like a field point. I like fixed blades myself. If your bow is properly tuned you should have no problem geting a fixed blade head to fly good out of your setup. I use the wasp boss sst head. I have killed 4 elk, a bear, and 8 or 9 deer with this head. It has always performed excellent and I find it to fly very good. My bow shoots 297 fps and I have no trouble with it planing. It hits within an inch of my field points from my setup.

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thanks

Postby lucky » Tue Aug 28, 2007 1:27 pm

i want to thank you for the info i just here a lot of broadheads like to plan just dont want to buy 4or 5 different ones thank you for the info
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Postby WIDGEONATOR » Tue Aug 28, 2007 2:09 pm

Broad heads fly funny when your bow isn't tuned properly, you have the wrong spined arrows, or you are getting fletching contact. I am shooting Muzzy's and they fly perfect, but expandable tips are a sure thing.

Shoot your bow at a 60 yard target, over and over. Watch the arrow, if it flies like a Lazer Beam your bow is tuned! If the tail is kicking or the arrow has a little wobble then you got an issue some where. Blazer vanes are supposed to help broadheads fly better, actually they make the arrows fly better period, but you have to be careful because they stick out so far they like to hit, cables and the rest which will make them fly funny. Also the type of rest you are shooting is going to be a big factor! If your arrow is hitting your rest your arrow is going to fly like dirt. Get a good drop away like a trophy taker. I tried the QAD, it's a good concept but it is a major hassle to get it to work properly, and you never know if it's going to drop properly.

Also you can look at the arrows in the target! If the arrows are sticking out of the target in different directions, or at an angle, then you probably have funny flying arrows. Here is a picture of a group I shot, you can see that the arrows are at different angles. When I was shooting you could see the arrows doing spirals, but that doesn't mean you can't shoot a tight group! My friend arrows were flying perfect, you can tell they are all exactly in the same direction in the target.

My 2 cents

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Postby Greenhead Grappler » Tue Aug 28, 2007 4:09 pm

the safest thing is expandables. you never have to worry about adjustments, they fly just like your field tips and get the job done just fine. i use to shoot the old school thunderheads, and one season i tried rocky mountain 2 blade expandables. they do just as much damage as fixed blades. now i dont even look at fixed blades. ive heard the rage broadheads work well to. just dont buy cheap ones! when you hear people preach against expandables the cheap ones are what they're talking about. :thumbsup:
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Postby Cupped-n-Committed » Fri Aug 31, 2007 5:32 am

They should teach you compound guys to shoot with your elbow down at shoulder height. It is actually bad for your rotator cuff to draw a bow with your elbow up. Your shoulder is actually stregthened by the muscles when the elbow is at shoulder height or below.

You guys are lucky for the % of let-off that helps at full draw but, there is a lot of weight on there before that cam rolls over and can still do damage little by little.

Just a thought for lengthening your archery carrer. :thumbsup:

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Postby firebird » Fri Aug 31, 2007 8:47 am

I am NOT a big fan of expandables and lean toward big heavy leading edge broadheads. I still shoot aluminum too-I get around planing with long fletchings 4inch minimum and this year fell in love with 5 inch feathers which were a gift from a friend. I shot the ripcord rest this season and aside from noise, which I fixed really was pleased. Any archery shop will help with arrow size and fletchings etc-I used to buy them one or two at a time from the bargain box and do what was mentioned earlier... 60 yards. I got called a dinosour at the archery shop the other day shooting my big arrows and feathers but aside from a new bow this year, the setup has worked for over 15 years.
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Postby Ducks4Coach » Fri Aug 31, 2007 9:17 am

They should teach you compound guys to shoot with your elbow down at shoulder height. It is actually bad for your rotator cuff to draw a bow with your elbow up. Your shoulder is actually stregthened by the muscles when the elbow is at shoulder height or below.


I'll agree and disagree with you cupped. Drawing a compound back with only your draw arm, damage can be done on the rotator cuff. Also, living a sedentary lifestyle during will increase the damage done to the shoulder. But drawing properly, even with a "push and pull" style, the possibility of damageing the cuff decreases. With that, living an active lifestyle and actually using your muscles on a day to day basis will also decrease the possibility of cuff injuries.

CHEAP MECHANICAL BROADHEADS ARE NOT VERY EFFECTIVE. THEY SHOOT AND FLY STRAIGHT LIKE A FIELDTIP, BUT DO NOT OPEN FULLY ON CONTACT!! Spend the money and shoot mech. tips. They DO work.
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Postby skybuster20ga » Fri Aug 31, 2007 11:45 am

stay away from expandables. there for the lazy archer who hasnt the knowledge nor skill or equipment to properly tune there bow. if i were in your shoes i would shoot a 100gr. muzzy 3 blade or a 100gr. montec by g5. i killed deer and bear w/ both. any serious archer will tall you that you cant beat a fixed blade when you bow is in tune. another option is a sonic broad head. they impact exactly like a feild point. now the down side to the sonics are a, they are a very very soft steel. and b, the cutting dia. isnt enough to suit me. all my hunting bows wear a fixed blade between 85. and 100 gr. and w/ bury 2" groups to 40 yds all day long. one way to test how tuned your bow is, take and shoot a bare shaft. if your bow is in tune you can robin hood bare shafts all day. paper tuning however is for the birds. most ppl dont really get it anyways
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Postby WIDGEONATOR » Fri Aug 31, 2007 1:00 pm

Cupped-n-Committed wrote:They should teach you compound guys to shoot with your elbow down at shoulder height. It is actually bad for your rotator cuff to draw a bow with your elbow up. Your shoulder is actually stregthened by the muscles when the elbow is at shoulder height or below.

You guys are lucky for the % of let-off that helps at full draw but, there is a lot of weight on there before that cam rolls over and can still do damage little by little.

Just a thought for lengthening your archery carrer. :thumbsup:

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I shoot with my elbow shoulder height when I am shooting a curve, or with fingers, but when you are shooting a release you have to roll your hand over to hit the trigger. That makes your elbow turn up, my shoulder never hurts! At least not that shoulder! :wink:
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Postby Greenhead Grappler » Sat Sep 01, 2007 8:26 am

skybuster20ga wrote:stay away from expandables. there for the lazy archer who hasnt the knowledge nor skill or equipment to properly tune there bow. if i were in your shoes i would shoot a 100gr. muzzy 3 blade or a 100gr. montec by g5. i killed deer and bear w/ both. any serious archer will tall you that you cant beat a fixed blade when you bow is in tune. another option is a sonic broad head. they impact exactly like a feild point. now the down side to the sonics are a, they are a very very soft steel. and b, the cutting dia. isnt enough to suit me. all my hunting bows wear a fixed blade between 85. and 100 gr. and w/ bury 2" groups to 40 yds all day long. one way to test how tuned your bow is, take and shoot a bare shaft. if your bow is in tune you can robin hood bare shafts all day. paper tuning however is for the birds. most ppl dont really get it anyways


i disagree with you. i am anything but a "lazy archer". i shoot year round in tournaments, and i am hunting 4 months out of the year. my bow is tuned great and i've shot fixed blades and they shoot fine through my bow. i choose to shoot mechs b/c i know they perform just as good as the muzzys or the sonic. (if you get a good one). and i know they will always fly great. not too many people can land 2" groups at 40 yds consistantly with fixed blades, so hats off to you on that. but for the unexperienced archer robin hooding bare shats is pretty hard. and for that matter tuning as a whole is not something you pick up on right away. go with the mechs. they do the job, and your not taking a chance on messing up that shot! :thumbsup:
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Postby Booney3721 » Sat Sep 01, 2007 7:23 pm

I think personally it depends on th bow, With a Hoyt lets say V-TECH or a PSE Super Nova or Spyder id say a Muzzy 100gr Broad Head, 3 blade though, Also The Nex Muzzy 4x4 are pretty good to, Ether way Im a HOyt and Muzzy and Cobra Archry shooter so ya.
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Postby skybuster20ga » Sun Sep 02, 2007 4:00 pm

greenhead i also shoot year round indoor and out in tourneys up and down the east coast. ive been shooting tourneys since i was 4 yrs. old. i have a full archery shop set up in my hopme minus the selling bows part. i do however tune bows for ppl build string buld arrows etc. i float alllll my shafts befor building which helps arrow flight beyond the 40 yd mark esp. w/ fixed blade broad heads. ive seen guys use them and get piss poor penetration and some not even open and ive seen those pretty little blades plain break off before exiting an animal. its just a sure thing w/ a fixed blade. i myself shoot muzzys and g5 montecs.NOT SONICS, there accuate but junk.

also, what class do you shoot??? perhaps ill see ya someday in vegas
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Postby Greenhead Grappler » Sun Sep 02, 2007 7:34 pm

skybuster20ga wrote:greenhead i also shoot year round indoor and out in tourneys up and down the east coast. ive been shooting tourneys since i was 4 yrs. old. i have a full archery shop set up in my hopme minus the selling bows part. i do however tune bows for ppl build string buld arrows etc. i float alllll my shafts befor building which helps arrow flight beyond the 40 yd mark esp. w/ fixed blade broad heads. ive seen guys use them and get piss poor penetration and some not even open and ive seen those pretty little blades plain break off before exiting an animal. its just a sure thing w/ a fixed blade. i myself shoot muzzys and g5 montecs.NOT SONICS, there accuate but junk.

also, what class do you shoot??? perhaps ill see ya someday in vegas


well your not going to see me in vegas. i shoot the hunters class, but you will see me in a deer stand. the only reason i shoot the tournaments is to practice for deer season. i have shot the fixed blades but i prefer to shoot expandables b/c ive used them for years and i know people thats used them and ive never had a problem. (with the good ones like rocky mountains or rage) on the other hand never had a problem with fixed blades (but you have to get a good brand like muzzy for those too) the reason i recommend mechs is b/c i didnt know what kind of experience the guy who posted this question has? if his bow is not tuned perfectly the fixed blades wont shoot right. but the mechs allow more room for error. i'll put my 2 blade mechs up against any fixed blade and they will do just as much if not more damage. i am not against fixed blades i just like the mechs better. the only reason i responded to your post is b/c you called me a "lazy archer" and that is not true. i was just answering the question in the best interest of the guy who posted it. i know a lot of guys that have shot years and years and shoot mechs, so it would be simply wrong to call them lazy. i do know some guys like you were referring to, but that is not the only kind of guys who shoot mechs. im sure i dont know half of what you know about archery, but i am a hunter and i know what works. so good luck skybuster! :thumbsup:
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Postby skybuster20ga » Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:03 pm

i should have put "lazy archer" in different words i guess. those are the guys who you hear often say they neednt shoot there bow w/ there broadheads cuz they impact the same as their feildtips. does that make sense? good luck to you guys as well
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Postby mattm25tx » Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:42 pm

WIDGEONATOR wrote:Broad heads fly funny when your bow isn't tuned properly, you have the wrong spined arrows, or you are getting fletching contact. I am shooting Muzzy's and they fly perfect, but expandable tips are a sure thing.

Shoot your bow at a 60 yard target, over and over. Watch the arrow, if it flies like a Lazer Beam your bow is tuned! If the tail is kicking or the arrow has a little wobble then you got an issue some where. Blazer vanes are supposed to help broadheads fly better, actually they make the arrows fly better period, but you have to be careful because they stick out so far they like to hit, cables and the rest which will make them fly funny. Also the type of rest you are shooting is going to be a big factor! If your arrow is hitting your rest your arrow is going to fly like dirt. Get a good drop away like a trophy taker. I tried the QAD, it's a good concept but it is a major hassle to get it to work properly, and you never know if it's going to drop properly.

Also you can look at the arrows in the target! If the arrows are sticking out of the target in different directions, or at an angle, then you probably have funny flying arrows. Here is a picture of a group I shot, you can see that the arrows are at different angles. When I was shooting you could see the arrows doing spirals, but that doesn't mean you can't shoot a tight group! My friend arrows were flying perfect, you can tell they are all exactly in the same direction in the target.

My 2 cents

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nice groups check out the pic under new bow of a really tight group :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:


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Postby WIDGEONATOR » Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:05 am

mattm25tx wrote:

nice groups check out the pic under new bow of a really tight group :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:




:huh:

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Postby Evil_McNasty » Wed Sep 05, 2007 7:51 am

If you buy a quality mechanical, it will kill just as good as a fixed. I have watched my Muzzys plane to the side a hundred times when there is wind. So here is what I do. I shoot a Mathews with the standard Mathews 5 arrow quiver and I stack it like so:

2 arrows with 100 grain 3 blade Muzzys
3 arrows with 100 grain Rocky Mountain Revolutions, Crimson Cuda, or Grim Reapers (any of these are good)

I love Muzzys, they are the best fixed blade out there. And there is not a single part of a deer's body that a Muzzy won't blast through. The practice blades rock. But for windy conditions or for mild wind w/ a long shot, I have to go with the mechanicals.

I'd also like to echo the positives on the Blazer vanes. I fletched some up at the end of last season and they've been shooting really well for me.

One last thing. I have been shooting the NAP Nitrons lately and find that they shoot just as well as any mechanical, and thus better than other fixed. They look really promising, but I can't say from experience (like I can w/ those above) that they penetrate and kill as well.
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Postby Greenhead Grappler » Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:07 am

Evil_McNasty wrote:I'd also like to echo the positives on the Blazer vanes. I fletched some up at the end of last season and they've been shooting really well for me.


i second that motion! i tried them about a year ago and wont use anything else. they're tougher, they dont catch as much side wind, and they fly better than the 4" vanes. plus, they look good, esp. with wraps!
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