Deal or no Deal?

From big game to target practice to 3d shoots

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Postby don taylor » Sat Mar 15, 2008 8:18 pm

just got my income tax/stimulus check and celebrated with a trophy ridge drop zone. Are all fall away rests like that connected to the bow in the same way? If I have to take it to a bowsmith(is that a word?) to install big deal. if its the only one and I can save the trip I will return it and get something else.

Sights. 3 pin? 5 pin? I don't like the verticle ones. They seem to be more work than I want hunting.
What do you like around $50?

Peep sight. What one?

Luminock. Cool accessory or waste of money? I may have to do a little night shooting in my garden.

How about a release? What ever fits or something else? I have one now but its old.
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Postby jrockncash » Sun Mar 16, 2008 2:35 am

Hey don i like the Lumenok but for hunting check the regs in my state it is illegal gay but true. I like the cobra sights but Some other good ones are the limbsaver and spothogs. The cobra is my favorite you can get away with a 3 pin this year until you are shooting so much you can justify a 5 or more pin.

Most drop aways are connected to the bow by that little cable you have to serve on there. The ones that arent you have to physically lift up with your finger when its time to shoot. Not the best in my opinion.

For peeps just get a regular one that serves in and is plenty big the straight round one should be good. Especially since you shoot instinctive. I stay away from the ones with the rubber hose cause they are a pain and can cause tuning probs. Cobra makes a decent release and I would stick with a caliper style not rope or back tension, more like pulling the trigger on a gun. Smith I think makes a decent release also. Check to see if you can shoot a mechanical broadhead cause they can fly a little better for a new guy. One that deploys from the rear.
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Postby wackemstackem » Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:11 am

quote="skybuster20ga"]hahaha 5k for a deer hunt hhahaha no thanks.

Yep thats what it cost to trophy hunt in Alaska.Stick with your 3d.

yes, feathers are louder by a long shot. prove it to yourself by standin down range near a target in safe conditions and have a buddy fire one of each.

I never said they were not louder,I said they were faster and more forgiving.Thats what a lot of HUNTERS prefer.

ive seen several several servings come appart. a string will outlast a serving by a long shot. i also shoot winners choice strings and i dont care. servings COME APPART. if you had a clue when your string stretches out, trhrow it in the bow press and giver her a couple twists. golly gee :huh: theres a brain buster.

I use a Winn archery release witch is designed to be used on the serving,I never had a problem with my servings,It seems you now it all tho.
Giving your string a few twists in the bow press when its stretched is pretty much the worst idea I have ever heard of from a HUNTING standpoint.Are you gonna say your peep will not twist after doing this.So instead of replacing your string you should re serve your peep and take the chance that it will twist when that big buck comes along.Great idea.

yes feathers will mask errors w/ the set up such as a contact issue or timing issues.

No contact issues with a drop away,Very few timing issues with a single cam.Not to say it doesent happen.

i think you need to learn a little more about archery sir.

.
I think you think you know more about archery than Fred Bear Young man.

and for the record an inch and a 1/16 broadhead at 280ish depending. no issues w/ broad head flight after a little work that obviously you dont have the skills know how or equipment to do.

280ish 1 1/16, sounds good to me.My freezer is packed year after year.My bow is a weapon yours is a toy to shoot foam.My mq32 is not the greatest bow in the world but it sure has killed alot of deer & my first P&Y bear without failure.

mathews DID make a good bow if you read my posts. i shot mathews for 10 years untill they started goin down the shitter. then i switched to bowtech. i also said bowtech made crappy bows back when i was shooting a hoyt, cuz they did but now they are the tip of the sword by far. that new drenalin from marthews isnt a horrible bow but untill they go away from the roller gaurd and a "timless" one cam" and figure out how to control there cam lean issue i aint shooting one again. besides, 7 years isnt that long my little sister who is 20 has shot longer then that hahahaand probabaly won more trophies too.


Ive been using the same bow for 7yrs learn how to read.
My trophies are on my wall not on my shelf.

How many 150 class bucks have you harvested that were not made of foam.
How many P&Y bears...?

sorry to jack your thread Don
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Postby wackemstackem » Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:26 am

jrockncash wrote:Hey don i like the Lumenok but for hunting check the regs in my state it is illegal gay but true. I like the cobra sights but Some other good ones are the limbsaver and spothogs. The cobra is my favorite you can get away with a 3 pin this year until you are shooting so much you can justify a 5 or more pin.

Most drop aways are connected to the bow by that little cable you have to serve on there. The ones that arent you have to physically lift up with your finger when its time to shoot. Not the best in my opinion.

For peeps just get a regular one that serves in and is plenty big the straight round one should be good. Especially since you shoot instinctive. I stay away from the ones with the rubber hose cause they are a pain and can cause tuning probs. Cobra makes a decent release and I would stick with a caliper style not rope or back tension, more like pulling the trigger on a gun. Smith I think makes a decent release also. Check to see if you can shoot a mechanical broadhead cause they can fly a little better for a new guy. One that deploys from the rear.


A great post and some solid advice from someone who hunts :thumbsup: jrock hit the nail on the head

I use the trophy ridge drop zone.its a great rest not hard to install Don.
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Postby skybuster20ga » Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:59 am

huh. i guess i dont hunt??? when you have your bow in a press to twist your string after a severe stretch why wouldnt you fix your peep at the same time?? man your simple. i would never pay money to kill an animal i can kill on my own.

if mathews are "single cam" and dont have timing problems why are there timing marks on the bottom cam. what ever you know more then everyone else i guess.

just for the record dont by a cobra releaSE. BY A SCOTT. either a wildcat or a sabertooth. the little goose is a good release too
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Postby wackemstackem » Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:18 pm

skybuster20ga wrote:huh. i guess i dont hunt??? when you have your bow in a press to twist your string after a severe stretch why wouldnt you fix your peep at the same time?? man your simple.i would never pay money to kill an animal i can kill on my own.

if mathews are "single cam" and dont have timing problems why are there timing marks on the bottom cam. what ever you know more then everyone else i guess.

:huh: What I dont get is why you would want to twist your string :huh: If your string has stretched twisting it will only make things worse.Once it has stretched its garbage.How are you going to twist it to the same exact length it was when new :huh: .Whats going to keep your peep from twisting after you twisted your string to shorten it.I can see why you cant keep a sigle cam bow in tune.

I dont pay anyone to kill an animal I can kill on my own either.Do you have antelope,caribou or elk runnin around your property :huh: Alaska Wyoming, Illinois,Canada,ect.All beutifull places.I cant wait to hunt mulies in Nebraska next year.(for free)

just for the record dont by a cobra releaSE. BY A SCOTT. either a wildcat or a sabertooth. the little goose is a good release too


Whats wrong with a cobra release..?why use a scott release ,cuz you said so it must be better.Good reason

I like the winn archery release,pulling from both my palm and wrist is comfortable for me.You can set the trigger pull and the trigger is allways rite next to my finger.Alot of hunters use it,its not very popular with the 3d guys.Rite skybust
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Postby skybuster20ga » Sun Mar 16, 2008 1:47 pm

haha nope. in comp i shoot a three finger back tension. my hunting release is a scott wildcat. its a known fact that scotts caliper releases are far and above any other thats why i recomend it
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Postby jrockncash » Sun Mar 16, 2008 3:09 pm

Cobras are simple and effective, scott are expensive and cater to 3D shooters. Like I said before if you are going to go be a foam super star shoot a back tension release and a super light arrows.

I would also recommend buying 2 releases, I put one in the glove box of my truck just in case. It will save you if you pull the bow out of its case and you cant find your release cause you left it on your target block when you stopped practicing the night before.
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Postby Greenhead Grappler » Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:45 pm

whooo! i hate that i missed out on this one. but ive read all over this post, and i cant even believe it.

First of all, back to the last question about the TR dropzone.
i have one and love it! it is served to your cable just below the rest.

second of all.....i shoot 3d and hunt. they are 2 different worlds. so different that its difficult for one kind of shooter to give advice to the other. both are very challenging but in totally different ways. a 3d shooter can smoke 12's all day long.....put him in a deerstand and he couldnt hit a bull's butt with a hand full of rice. on the other hand......a hunters might be able to hit a coffee can at 30 yds under the most tense situation, but let him try to hit a quarter at 45 yds.
in hunting, you will hardly ever have a good stance and all the time you need to make a shot. thats why simple is usually better.

since Don is hunting for the most part. you got to be careful what kind of advice you give.
Do NOT get a back tension release. thats just gonna ruin your shot when youre a beginner.

its hilarious that you guys can argue about who knows more! :rofl:
any archer with any experience knows that archers dont agree on anything. its worse than duck hunters!
broadheads, fletching, rest, sites........everyone has a different opinion. and different things work for different people.
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Postby skybuster20ga » Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:57 pm

ive actually been shooting traditional for the last year and having a blast. waaaaayy less to think about and worry about. i love it.
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Postby don taylor » Thu Mar 20, 2008 8:12 pm

I just got back from having my bow tuned, peep and kisser installed on my new string, and my TR drop zone installed. After clearing up how a verticle pin works I'm torn. Is it a big issue to adjust it for yardage? I have a rangefinder so I can mark distances from my stand. Are there any other issues involved with that style sight?

Side question:
when your in a stand where do you shoot a turkey? I have always hunted from the ground and aimed for the base of their neck. Do you just shoot at the angle that passes through the vitals? Even if the pass through is into the ground? I get this image of a turkey spinning around a arrow, pinned to the ground.
thanks again guys.
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Postby skybuster20ga » Fri Mar 21, 2008 6:56 am

verticle pins are as simple as horizontal. they just are sposed to give you a better sight picture of the target. w/ fast bows i dont care for them because the pins are so close together all i get is a blob of color. maybe its just my eyes. i like the extreme line of sights. simple and durible. and not too expensive either.

as far as hunting turkeys from a treestand, i wouldnt do it unless it was in the fall and you were deer hunting and one passed under your tree. then i would shoot it. i have before and yes. exit is always the most important. in the spring time, forget it. its probably the most dangerous way to hunt turkeys. but thats up to you
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Postby wackemstackem » Fri Mar 21, 2008 11:32 am

verticle are just as easy as horizontal,I too prefer horizontal,i dont like all the pins in the same line like that,for me its harder.

Shoot a turkey in the ass when hes facing away,thats your best shot with a bow.You can draw without him seeing you.They have specialty broad heads that will take the head clean off,I seen the video at cabelas.You can really hit them in the body any where if your not concerned about the meat,The ass seems to be the best shot tho.
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Postby skybuster20ga » Fri Mar 21, 2008 12:37 pm

w/ my bow i also prefer them walking away but up the ass they would have to be strutting and perfectly square almost. i usually try to tuck it just behind the wing bone. as far as meat damage goes, its a razor sharp broadhead it never seems to ruin anything. ive shot the w/ muzzys thunder heads wasp sonic and all sorts of crappy expandibles and the result is the same. instant death.
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Postby wackemstackem » Fri Mar 21, 2008 2:11 pm

yea.... what he said.
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Postby jrockncash » Fri Mar 21, 2008 11:02 pm

Go for the old Texas Heart shot. (Right in the butthole) Or pin his wings together.
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Postby don taylor » Sat Mar 22, 2008 7:55 pm

OK so now I just installed my TR titan verticle pin sight. From what I understand this single pin should suit me to about 25 yards. What if a animal is 35 yards? Is it me making a educated guess? practicle will cure this question up, but do you have any suggestions? Is there a formula for arrow drop based on speed and weight? Can I really make this one pin shoot any distance?

As far as turkey hunting goes we have more turkeys in western PA than songbirds. I hunt private woods in a tree stand for them. I think it should take me all of a hour to get one. I'm going to be shooting down at them from 15' up so a rear enterance texas butt plug will be hard. How about between their wings from overhead?
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Postby jrockncash » Sat Mar 22, 2008 8:14 pm

that should work(between the wings) I am not familiar with the sight you are talking about so I cant help you to much with that. Is it a slider sight, where you can put the yardage on the side and adjust it or is it a pendulum type that compensates for the angle from the stand to the deer? I dont use single pin sights cause sliders are for target shooting and I dont hunt from a stand. I will go look it up on google and get back to ya.
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Postby jrockncash » Sat Mar 22, 2008 8:19 pm

http://www.bowhunting.net/artman/publis ... itan.shtml

Is it this one or

http://archeryoutpost.com/sights3.htm

this one.


The first should be alright. I would not use it cause when a deer is coming in the last thing I want to have to deal with aside from my form, anchor point, trigger control, is to have to adjust the yardage. But this is what were working with. Once you figure out how your bow shoots from practice you will know how far you can get away without adjusting the pin. I would think about 33 yards and then you may have to move it.

Have you gotten any pointers on form yet and how is the practicing going? Oh and one other thing, again check your regs about adding an Led light to your sight cause it is illegal here.
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Postby don taylor » Sun Mar 23, 2008 11:38 am

I've been shooting quite a bit over the past couple of days. A old timer that holds several barebow records in PA has been giving me tips on my form. I now am shooting a 3" group at 20 yards and a 4" group at 30 yards. All clustered around the bull. But I just ripped the sight off and I'm starting over. I bought a new release that I like, a tru fire I think. I also bought some easton outdoors devastator small game broadheads. They have what looks like a star shaped prong design. Anybody every used something similar? What type of arrows should I use on small game? can those wooden flu flu arrows handle it? I don't want to lose a expensive arrow shooting at a starling.
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Postby jrockncash » Sun Mar 23, 2008 11:50 am

DONT SHOOT wood through a compound. It can blow up. I saw a guy shooting wooden arrows through a Martin compound and guys were telling him that he should stop. Then the arrow blew up and he had a 12" piece sticking through his forearm. For small game I like those cheap little spitfire xpandbles.

For starlings you can shoot a thumper or blunts. They are just a blunt tip that whacks them real hard. I also have a couple of Judo points that I carry in my pack when I hunt in case I run into a grouse. Judo work very well to keep you from losing your arrows.
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Postby Greenhead Grappler » Tue Mar 25, 2008 11:06 pm

hey Don I bought a vertical pin sight a couple months ago. (Trophy Ridge) i like it so far.

my only complaint is if you get a stick or something shoved into the sight it will bend the pins., but they can be bent straight again very easy. found that out by accident.
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Postby don taylor » Fri Mar 28, 2008 7:29 pm

So I'm checking out broadheads and I bought some Muzzy 125 3 blades, Some cheapo 2 blade 100's and some fancy judo points. I saw "gobbler Guillitine"(sp) with 2" blades on each side. Has anyone seen these? Used them? There is something about being illegal some places? These are supposed to take their head clean off!
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Postby wackemstackem » Fri Mar 28, 2008 8:57 pm

They had a video of those heads at cabelas,the heads came clean off.Be sure your feild points are the same weight as your broad heads.
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Postby jrockncash » Sun Mar 30, 2008 1:14 am

The actual Gobler Guilltione(Sp) doesnt fly real well. You have to put straws over the blades to get them to fly decent. They have since come out with a new one that is supposed to be better. They also make a rapid expandable broadhead that is just for turkeys. The "Hematic"? I think something like that. Made to open up ridiculously wide and put a hurtin on the gobblers. I would think they would fly better.

Hey Don Good practice for guessing range is to go to the woods and throw on a Judu and shoot stumps. More rotten the better, but guessing the yardage is tough. Rhinehart also makes a target that is a ball with a rope on it about the size of a basketball. You just throw it out as far as you want and try and shoot it. Great for getting your range down.

Once you figure out what weight head works best for you try and stay consistent with the tips from field point to broadhead.
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