new setup

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new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Sun May 02, 2010 9:40 pm

just got a dslr canon and a Canon EF Zoom lens - 70 mm - 300 mm - F/4.0-5.6 lense

I have only gotten out a couple of times when it's been kinda cloudy, but I expected more for dropping $500 on a lense. I know many people spend over a grand on some, but I just couldn't see myself doing that.

It just seems like the focus isn't quite there like I thought it would after I cropped it. Perhaps I am moving a little bit, but I will keep practicing and using different techniques. I just see it very difficult to get bird pics that are properly lit, in focus, in frame yadda yadda... lol

are there any old school lenses out there that are reasonably priced with a good lense? I know for just another 150 I could have gotten an L lense from canon, but it was only a 200mm.....

enjoy some samples
Attachments
spoons2.jpg
walk.jpg
snows.jpg
pins.jpg
dmans2.jpg
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Re: new setup

Postby REM1100 » Tue May 04, 2010 1:07 am

you should save yourself some money and look at the Sigma 70-300 f4-5.6 APO DG OS for about $300. the Siggy can stay at f4 up to 150mm and has a more balance transition on F stops along with focal distance Some of my friends are saying the Canon gets a little soft at the 300 end and also the transition from f4 to f.5.6 is quite abrupt.
I have the 70-300 Siggy in Minolta mount second hand for $75 sorry I have some problems posting some pics with my computer as it dosn`t want to multitask
The first pic seems OK in good light.. nice spoonies
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Re: new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Tue May 04, 2010 6:40 am

not sure why, but when I compressed them online and posted to another site, they looked a LOT better than when I used the software my computer had to resize the pictures.

http://www.nodakoutdoors.com/forums/vie ... 87&t=82303

hmm, perhaps I should stick with the online resize thing.

well if you think the sigma (300$) will do as good or better than my canon (500) then I might just be buying and selling sometime soon. It's tough to know how they will perform.

I find that water shots and field shots tend to be a little soft, is that because there isn't any contrast for it to focus on? is there a way to combat it? Should I be using just the ceter for autofucus? should I use all 5 boxes for auto? or should it be manually?

I will say that it was pretty dark taking those pics. It was raining actually.

Just trying to get to know the game!!
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Re: new setup

Postby REM1100 » Tue May 04, 2010 11:35 am

I think you could resize the just a little bigger.
Think of you camera and 300 lens like a shotgun as it will only shoot out to 50 yds with any clarity for a decent crop.
You can try the Sports mode if the subject is moving or the Landscape mode first.
I prefer to set up the cameras menu first to the finest setting JPEG set up some contrast, little color saturation and some sharpness, leave the ISO to auto and set the focus to Spot and the metering to Spot also. ( for more advance shooters They can use the bracket feature where it shoots 3 pics at once at different EV and you can pick the best pic)
Lighting is the best way to get a good pic with most lens. Make sure the subject is not in the shadows and with the sun lighting the subject (preffered at your back or a quartering shot).
I like to shoot at either Program or Aperture Priority mode once you have your menu settings set up.
Program mode is a deluxe point and shoot with favorable results as the camera will compensate for shutter speed and ISO<EV and Fstop settings..I like the Aperture priority mode along withe preset menu settings and can set the aperture opening Fstop usually around F8 on most 300mm lens with the IS turned on.

Once you get more experience and can afford more memory and a good RAW editor some guys shoot in RAW format or RAW and Jpeg format and actually develope the picture with software to their liking and perhaps come out with a better pic as it is not compressed.

Advanced shooters use a circular polarizer on some water shots but you would lose one F stop and make adjustments.

You know you have a keeper lens when you can shoot it in diferent zoom ranges and the pics come out sharp with good colors and Bokeh with the menu setting and do not have to go thru the photo editor also if the pic comes out favarible even at 100% crop

Some shots with the 70-300mm:
some close shots with good lighting
last two shots are at 60 yds and 120 yds with a little cropping

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
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Re: new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Tue May 04, 2010 4:00 pm

thanks for the post, the 50 yard thing is a good tip, I just wished it was able to be as clear as through the viewfinder, but my shooting has not been ideal. For instance, I am shooting a long distance, low light, freehand, and am new!

Thanks for the tips, it helps to have someone with the knowledge to ask questions and get help from. I am now going to start shooting raw and jpeg

I have a sunshade for the lense, are there any other tips that will increase clarity that I can purchase?

I do shoot with a polarized lense, I know that you loose one f stop but I feel I can get better results if it is sunny.
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Re: new setup

Postby REM1100 » Tue May 04, 2010 5:28 pm

I don't shoot with any filters for a clearer pic.the circular polarizers do not work on my rotating lens.
A good long lens hood along with a quick lightweight tripod can do wonders...just a tip when you shoot with a tripod, turn off the IS and you will get a better pic. an buy a remote shutter trigger for $50
When you shoot a moving target make sure the shutter speed is better the 1/250 better yet closer to 1/500...program mode will handle it and pan the shot meaning shooting it like a passing side shot at ie teal
make sure your lens and filters are clean with a quality cleaner and microc-loth.
I venture a step further and clean my own sensor mirror and viewfinder
Another good quality lens is the new Tamron 18-270 IS lens for acceptable walk about one lens does all for vacation and some nature landscape portrait shots just under $500 and put the 18-50mm kit lens :sad: up for sale under $100 and use the money for something else Like the mega buck CANON 100-400 L lens :thumbsup:
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Re: new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Tue May 04, 2010 8:02 pm

BWTedit.JPG



I took this one in raw and did a little with editing, the color was much better than original seen below

rebel may4 2010 004.jpg


Thanks for the tips on speeds as well. I do have a good hood and tripod. I also have a wireless remote too


what did you mean when you said"When you shoot a moving target make sure the shutter speed is better the 1/250 better yet closer to 1/500...program mode will handle it and pan the shot meaning shooting it like a passing side shot at ie teal"

I want to get to shoot some flying birds this weekend. I just didn't quite understand what you were saying. so I need 1/250 or 1/500? what does pan the shot mean? the focus will keep up? When I am am shooting passing bird, I had a hard time with the lighting and the lense focusing (couldn't keep it on the bird)
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Re: new setup

Postby REM1100 » Tue May 04, 2010 9:55 pm

Not too many people can shoot RAW or raw/jpeg as the initial pic does not make sense sometimes but you caught on fast :thumbsup:

When taking in birds in flight you have to practice on a similar target in the distance by holding the AE button half way down at a similar distance an it will lock the focus ( some lens have a lens limiter lock switch which will shorten the focus distance and enable the focus lock faster) in that area set the focus on Spot and the metering on center weight and then if you are shooting in Shutter priority you can use the rule of thumb..the slowest speed numerically closest to its focal length..in your case it would be a focal length of 300mm and the closest shutter speed would be 1/250 and a Fstop of f8..you pan the shot by bringing the camera with IS on from behind the target and bring it smoothly to the same speed as the target and squeeze off the shot or shots following the target versus others just wait for the target to pass by a selected spot but can risk some blurring and can only get off one shot.
You can also use the program or aperture priority mode on moving shots as it will hopefully self adjust the shutter speed.
It would be a good practice to view your shot on the histogram to see where it needs adjustment on colors and EV

off topic you can use a combination of different exposures withe same results... ie you can shot at 1/250 and F* or shoot at 1/500 and at %.6 with the same results depending on lighting..playing with ISO and EV can give similar results under changing lighting conditions
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Re: new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Wed May 05, 2010 6:40 am

now that makes sense about the pan.

I can tell it is going to take a lot of practice and learning to have consistantly good pictures.

Iso, shutter, fstop, and thats just getting started.... I wasn't too happy with my lesne right away I will try it with the 1/250, but if the day is too dark should I leave it since I am shooting raw? should I hike up iso to 400?

Thanks again, you have been most helpful, I try to learn everything I can on forums!
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Re: new setup

Postby REM1100 » Wed May 05, 2010 12:38 pm

Yes you can hike up the ISO but watch out for noise hiking up ISO should increase shutter speed..you might take a shot look at the histogram and then play with the EV maybe in increments

Chuck
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Re: new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Wed May 05, 2010 3:59 pm

:) I have got to learn to read the histograms better. I understand the jist of it, but couldn't tell you when I am out in the field clicking away. Same goes for the EV. To a BRAND new SlR owner, it seems very overwhelming.

for instance, in low light, do you raise iso? slow shutter speed? f-stop

Does all of this fall under Exposure? or does iso NOT..

I think if I had a weekend with someone who has been doing this a while I would have better luck!--- and with some SUN!

I really appreciate this help. I am going to go out this weekend and hopefully find some swimming birds to come in.
Is it normal to have a hard time getting a focused image when it is on water because of the lack of contrast? or are the ones I shoot just too far out---- sorry for the questions, I really have been reading a lot, and I got a dvd on dslrs as well, so I am trying :)
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Re: new setup

Postby REM1100 » Thu May 06, 2010 12:21 am

In low light and in either Program or Aperture Priority mode you would probably shoot ar ISO 400 and rarely ISO 800 outdoors
The shutter speed will go up to compensate on a scale automatically and in program mode the Fstop might go up (meaning the aperture of the lens will open up to let in more light.
You are almost guaranteed to get a favorable shot in program mode.
Remember the 300mm lens can go up to 60 yds for a perfect shot with the right conditions and you can shoot up tto 120 yds with the right cropping.
You can also go the poor man's route and buy a tamron 1.4x teleconverter and shoot manually at 300mm and get a 672mm 300mmx1.6 cropx1.4x=672)shot and touch it up on post editing as these sell used for $75-$100 of course you can use it on AF only up to a total of f5.6 threshold
EV shows a scale of + and - minus means a darker exposure and + means a lighter exposure as some subjects ie may be over expose or the fill flash could be too strong and you may have to angle bounce ythe flash.

I think if you google How to photograph wildlife you will see some interesting chapters on how to do it and the requirements in equipment nd you will become a better shooter and really enjoy the benefits and command the equipment.
As usual don't be scared to ask me questions as I do not profess to be a professional but gained alot of experience photographing thousands of homes as a Realtor for 28 years and have turned to wild life in the last 10 years trying every lens I could get my hands on and researching them and collecting affordable lens as I now have 10 lens and hope to buy and sell them and I also am using a slightly better than beginer camera the two year old Sony A200 but I make the best of what I have on camera without the use of hardly any photo
editing as I only have a free picasa and my sony program has a conflict with windows 7
For the moment learn the weakness of your equipment and work around them for the moment and read reviews about other lens and when you have the bucks go and try them out ass they will let you do it for a week before you buy
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Re: new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Sat May 08, 2010 8:59 pm

quick question. I can't seem to get the pics any bigger I got to 1000x???? megapix BUT this is still all the bigger it gets. Any idea of what isgoing on? I convert and save using digital photo professional (canon disk) should I lower image quality to less than 10?

I also don't understand where it says : output 350 dpi -- I can change it around, but i'd like to be able to post up some bigger pics (I have some nice ones!)

Thanks
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Re: new setup

Postby REM1100 » Sun May 09, 2010 12:18 am

Stay at Jpeg and fine at 10 megs
On your photo editor use the Resize feature 480x640 and when you go to photobucket it will load up faster and when you post the pic on the forum it should look a little bigger
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Re: new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Sun May 09, 2010 8:28 am

spoontoungeedit640.JPG


Well, here is my 640x480

I think it still looks small?--- and it seems like there are "breaks" or "fractures" once I post here....
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Re: new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Sun May 09, 2010 9:17 am

Image

I think I figuredit out finally!! thanks again REM!
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Re: new setup

Postby REM1100 » Sun May 09, 2010 10:42 am

Looks like you have some good subjects to play with..just make sure they are in range on a half decent day.
Keep the pics coming :thumbsup:
Here is an untouched pic on an overcast day with 300 ( 450 mm )at about 40 yds

Image
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Re: new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Sun May 09, 2010 10:57 am

viewtopic.php?f=97&t=121432&p=932080#p932080


Thanks! I hopefully can catch on fast and get some stuff up for everyone to enjoy! I am blessed to live where I do!!!
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Re: new setup

Postby Whitehorse » Sun May 09, 2010 10:59 am

REM1100 wrote:Looks like you have some good subjects to play with..just make sure they are in range on a half decent day.
Keep the pics coming :thumbsup:
Here is an untouched pic on an overcast day with 300 ( 450 mm )at about 40 yds

Image

do you shoot with a 1.4x teleconverter? I have thought about it and for a hundred or two hundred bucks I think it could prove worthy when you can't get close. do you like the results? I am really getting to like my lense now that I have the ability to shoot raw it is a whole new ballgame!!
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Re: new setup

Postby REM1100 » Sun May 09, 2010 6:05 pm

I have a Tamron 1.4x Teleconvertor and use it sometimes on the 75-300 f4-5.6 but you will lose one f stop and you would MANUAL focus with a good tripod...use it for subjects out to 100-150 yds and touch up in editing on contrast and sharpness and crop it a bit and you could have a favorable picture since you would lose one f stop you would be shooting normally at F8 but in this case I think you would setting it at F 7.1 on Aperture priority or just go manual on Program mode and let the F stop be set automatically
I use it primarily on my 50mm f 1.7 and my 35-70 f4 a also 70-210 F4 as these work well on atuo-focus and I don't want to carry some bulky lens on a holiday.. The 1.4X Tele-connverter is a sound investment for any camera bag..The 2x is questionable as you lose 2 F stops and some picture |Q which may not be agreeable in editing
I should be using the minolta 100-400 but it would cost me over $500 used and $700 for a good copy for an old lens
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