tell me what you think.......

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tell me what you think.......

Postby goose/stoli » Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:02 pm

still learning on this camera could use any help....

how come some come out really clear and other not so????

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Postby 2 tollers » Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:20 pm

Goose with the point and shoots each individual camera has its sweet spots for distance, lighting etc. A couple of the shots you took in this series are difficult even for a DSLR (the flying geese). You will want to pay attention to the distance and set up that gives you good pic's for future shots as this will be this cameras sweet spot.

One of the points I look to for field photo's is framing of the image -- at a minimum 1/3 of the subject to be in the frame.

For the snow background shots it is hard for a camera to adjust the white balance for the picture and it will do this automatically. I do the contrast clean up on my photo editing software. For the motion shots in order to avoid movement blur a shutter speed in the range of 1/500 sec is required -- your camera I do not believe has the ability to have shutter priority or dual adjustment for the F stop and iso so movement shots will be somewhat blurry.

I really like the evening shot and would with editing software lighten up the corn. For the shots on your dog you would need to move in closer to get more detail.

The shots on the decoy spreads on the other post are good and if you wanted more detail on the hunters faces the only way to get this would be to move in closer.

Not sure what photo editing software you are using but this would be where you could increase or adjust the depth of color (higher saturation), adjust for some of the camera shake (sharpen the picture) etc.

If you have an image you would like me to do something with send it through.

Hugh
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Postby REM1100 » Thu Jan 08, 2009 2:50 am

Hugh has said alot of technical stuff that really makes sense.
Your coolpix is an advanced point and shoot without manual controls and looking at the pics it is hard to figure oiut what the camera did. Most things are fingertip and auto.
I recommend that you NOT HIDE the properties of the shot and up load it again but thru the photbucket site so I can see the whole spectrum of properties and then I can make some comments as the DHC upload has removed the properties..It wont even let me know which camera took the shot.
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Postby 2 tollers » Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:28 am

Goose other things to check -- at one time I used a point /shoot similiar to yours in the field and found I was able to get great tight pictures in the early fall but as the temperature dropped the images went soft and milky at times. I found this was due to the temperatures impacting the battery functions. Any chance the camera is getting cold on a couple of the shots?
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Postby goose/stoli » Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:15 am

thanks guys

Any chance the camera is getting cold on a couple of the shots?


Maybe.... I did try to keep the camera close to my chest under some clothes...


I recommend that you NOT HIDE the properties of the shot and up load it again but thru the photbucket site so I can see the whole spectrum of properties and then I can make some comments as the DHC upload has removed the properties..It wont even let me know which camera took the shot.


do I just paste them on here or set up a album on photobucket???
kill counts are for snipers and fighter pilots, not sportsmen.
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Postby 2 tollers » Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:44 pm

If you use photbucket to post we can read the pictures and pull them off to "tune up" a bit.

Do you have a photo software editing tool?
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Postby goose/stoli » Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:05 pm

just what came with our PC....

I'll repost using Photobucket
kill counts are for snipers and fighter pilots, not sportsmen.
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Postby goose/stoli » Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:15 pm

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kill counts are for snipers and fighter pilots, not sportsmen.
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Postby REM1100 » Fri Jan 09, 2009 1:40 pm

Now that I have seen your properties I have remastered the pics and by doing that I h have noticed that you have shot them on AUTO and have not selected a particular scene mode, also when you shot the menu says you patterned shot shem...some shots like these should be centred shot...your camera has alot of contrast and is lacking somehat in exposure and the only wa to partly overcome this is to select the right scene mode and Manually select the ISO...a higher ISO will give you somewhat a brighter pic, for some reason your coolpix on auto liked to suppress higher ISO instead of capable to go higher.
Any time you shoot into the sun you should adjust the ISO until the right brightness without noise appears on the LCD screen.
AS I mentioned before on action scene mode you should pan the subject and finger it on the LCD and track it down and shoot.
If you have any questions PM me and I will give you my opinions an hopefully some answers.
The nikon is fairly good in normal lighting conditions so try to get the right lighting for your shots or make the adjustments to the camera and in the editing.

I hoped I have helped you out and not cooked your mind. Practice...cuss..practice until you are satified and enjoy!


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Postby goose/stoli » Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:37 pm

thank you rem1100 and 2 tollers
kill counts are for snipers and fighter pilots, not sportsmen.
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Postby 2 tollers » Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:44 pm

Goose I agree with Rem on the high ISO -- when I looked at the pic data histogram they were on the high side for over exposure and on the soft side for detailed image (sharpness)

Here is what I was able to do and how using Microsoft Digital Image

Lightened the dark pixels, increased the color saturation to make the colors more vivid (same tint's just deeper), sharpened the image and adjusted the horizontal (straighten) just slightly for the far water shore line.

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Results are similiar to Rem's -- increased saturation (more color), sharpened the picture, I could not reduce the snow glare without washing out the birds, removed some black spots that were in the upper right corner (birds maybe?), straightened the picture slightly based on the field horizon.

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For this one distance and motion were the problems and I sharpened the impage.
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These are a couple of pic's I took with my old Fuji FinePix --- (great little camera until I froze it :oops: )

I will try to explain what I did with this camera as it was really limited in its capabilities.

Best pictures were at distances of about 8 feet with the sun on the object. I would have used the software to increase the saturation on this shot and sharpened the image.

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This shot was an early overcast morning -- no flash. Again software for saturation. I did have to use smart erase to remove my feet from the frame as I was that close to the dogs. Lower left grass is cloned into the frame.

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Hope some of this helps and if you get a good shot you want a touch up on send it through and we can PM back and forth on adjustments you want. :thumbsup:

Keep at it as this digital work is addictive ---- oh and lots of pricey toys :smile:

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Postby REM1100 » Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:50 pm

Hey Hugh nice explanation and good demonstration of shots and software...I use free ACDsee trial software
Guys not everything is straight auto exposure and point and shoot ..you have to play with scene modes and set up some program modes if available on your camera and then you will have a decent base to work with hopefully the end result a pic worth saving, also location and lighting condidtions are critical
It doesn't cost anything to experiement, cuss, cuss, experiment, practice never give up and learn and make the best of what you currently have.
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