Homemade motion duck decoy

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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby PoorSTLguy » Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:40 pm

i wonder if pets mart sells the weasel balls .. i would assume they do

i wonder if maybe an electric toothbrush or something would create more ripples ... :huh:
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby mydogearl » Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:14 am

definetly going to try this. like someone said earlier, I think you might be better off using rechargeables in the long run if the batteries are only lasting 4-6 hours. I wonder how this would work in a goose floater? I would think you may need two weaselballs for that.
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby PoorSTLguy » Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:48 pm

mydogearl wrote:definetly going to try this. like someone said earlier, I think you might be better off using rechargeables in the long run if the batteries are only lasting 4-6 hours. I wonder how this would work in a goose floater? I would think you may need two weaselballs for that.


if they worked together it would probably work, but its more likely one ball will counter balance the other one and it probably won't be extremely effective.

worth experimenting tho..
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby snapshotmd » Fri Dec 30, 2011 12:55 pm

PoorSTLguy wrote:i wonder if pets mart sells the weasel balls .. i would assume they do

i wonder if maybe an electric toothbrush or something would create more ripples ... :huh:



I checked this out. Petsmart has something called the SmartyKat Wildspin, which is not cheap... $15. Sounds like the same thing but double the price.

The thing about toothbrushes, vibrators, etc. is that these are high frequency vibrations. Actually, the ball is not giving off vibrations, but merely offsetting center of gravity of the deek making it wobble.
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby JuniorPre 360 » Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:01 pm

snapshotmd wrote:
PoorSTLguy wrote:i wonder if pets mart sells the weasel balls .. i would assume they do

i wonder if maybe an electric toothbrush or something would create more ripples ... :huh:



I checked this out. Petsmart has something called the SmartyKat Wildspin, which is not cheap... $15. Sounds like the same thing but double the price.

The thing about toothbrushes, vibrators, etc. is that these are high frequency vibrations. Actually, the ball is not giving off vibrations, but merely offsetting center of gravity of the deek making it wobble.

:huh: vibrators???
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby snapshotmd » Fri Dec 30, 2011 4:16 pm

JuniorPre 360 wrote:
snapshotmd wrote:
PoorSTLguy wrote:i wonder if pets mart sells the weasel balls .. i would assume they do

i wonder if maybe an electric toothbrush or something would create more ripples ... :huh:



I checked this out. Petsmart has something called the SmartyKat Wildspin, which is not cheap... $15. Sounds like the same thing but double the price.

The thing about toothbrushes, vibrators, etc. is that these are high frequency vibrations. Actually, the ball is not giving off vibrations, but merely offsetting center of gravity of the deek making it wobble.

:huh: vibrators???


My buddy's idea. We were talking about this in the blind this morning and he suggested putting a vibrator in the deek. But I told him it probably wouldn't work because of said theory of operation.
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby remi917 » Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:01 am

Looking to "reinvent" this theory -- was hoping I could get some feedback and tips for what I posted here:

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=177224
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby tenfingergrip » Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:37 am

I like your inventiveness and search for wanting to perfect the weasel, rem917.
I already have a couple of weasels that I've been pretty pleased with, but there is something you could do with the weasel ball to give more motion. I love to piddle and perfect, but I'll leave this project to you. Just please report back the results with some video if possible.

Taking your theory and expanding on it, this is what I would start with, were I doing it:

I would think that the higher the center of gravity that the off-center spinning weight was inside the decoy, the more it would wobble. (my theory) Therefore, there would be a need to raise the motor up, inside the decoy to give more wobble. If I was to do this, I would simply remove the top of the weasel ball, leaving only the bottom which houses the motor. I would glue, epoxy, or otherwise attach a short piece of pvc pipe (approx 3' diameter) to the inside bottom of the decoy, then glue, epoxy, or otherwise attach the bottom (with motor) of the weasel ball to the top of the pvc. This would raise the center of gravity of the off center weight. The size of the pvc could be smaller (lighter too) since you want the round bottom of the ball to nestle for stability. If the theory is correct, the wobble would be greatly enhanced. Limiting factor being the amount of distance between the bottom and top of the decoy. Therefore, a magnum would work better than a standard decoy.
Wanna try that?
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby remi917 » Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:31 pm

Thats a great thought, I have a few questions:

do you think having it "fixed" produced the same amount of wobble as a moving/rolling weasel? The original post here talked about using foam which would allow the ball to be held in place and not roll around / prevent it from sounding plastic-y, However then there were many variations of this. I was thinking:

The reason the ball doesn't move a lot in mine is because the ball's shell is too large (or the decoy is too small, depending how you look at it). So I wanted to come up with a version for those of us who don't have magnums, and can't afford to get them yet.

My dilemma is whether or not to have it fixed like you suggested, with a higher center of gravity (good added thought on that), but i don't know that it would close on the top since it's a regular size mallard decoy. Or whether I can wrap the motor in something like bubble wrap and let it try to roll over itself randomly, But I'd have to attach the shaft to something that offsets itself so it would roll (and not just spin).... Hopefully this rambling made sense- It did in my head :lol3:
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby tenfingergrip » Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:15 pm

Since I used a magnum and just have it roll around in a sock, I don't have any experience with the standard size. I have not tried out my take on your theory, but just believe that a magnum with the scenario I described would work the same or better than the ones that had the ball enclosed in foam. It would work even better if you removed about 1/2 of the sand from the keel to lessen the stability of the decoy. I may try one since you don't have a magnum to "play" with. I know I've got lots of old Pintail magnums that I can experiment with. Stay tuned for a video.
Last edited by tenfingergrip on Fri Jan 13, 2012 9:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby O2Fsh » Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:24 pm

Idea: What if the weasel ball was glued (battery side) to the top inside of the decoy (hatch to access the inside of the decoy)? Once glued into position, place batteries in, close ball, close hatch, set decoy out.

This position should raise the center of gravity within the decoy and result in more rings thrown out by the decoy.

Otherwise, epoxy in a switched, Radio Shack long shaft motor driven by a 9V battery and attach an offset counter balance. Turn on, close hatch and set out.

As soon as I figure out how to post pictures, I'll post my homemade jerk string feeding decoy that M-O-V-E-S water like no other. In the process of figuring out how to make it self adjusting to compensate for the falling/rising tide in the marshes I hunt in.


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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby tenfingergrip » Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:34 pm

Rem,

Just noticed that you have removed the motor completely from the ball. Since you have done that, then why not use a short piece of pvc pipe epoxied to the bottom of the deke to hold the motor, as I suggested before, that is just slightly larger than the motor and just stuff a little foam rubber around the motor to take up the extra space. That way the motor would be lodged tightly in the decoy and the counterweight would be spinning above the pvc piece. It would also give you the option of easily removing the motor should it go bad. That motor would probably fit down in a 1 1/2" piece of pvc pipe. How wide is it?

Comprende?
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby snapshotmd » Thu Jan 12, 2012 2:31 pm

tenfingergrip wrote:Rem,

Just noticed that you have removed the motor completely from the ball. Since you have done that, then why not use a short piece of pvc pipe epoxied to the bottom of the deke to hold the motor, as I suggested before, that is just slightly larger than the motor and just stuff a little foam rubber around the motor to take up the extra space. That way the motor would be lodged tightly in the decoy and the counterweight would be spinning above the pvc piece. It would also give you the option of easily removing the motor should it go bad. That motor would probably fit down in a 1 1/2" piece of pvc pipe. How wide is it?

Comprende?


Don't think that would work since the motor itself has to be swung around to wobble. Rem would have to make something to put the shaft into on the bottom and top of the deek, so that the motor can swing around inside. It would be great not having to open the deek, then open the ball to switch it on/off.
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby tenfingergrip » Fri Jan 13, 2012 9:32 am

Ah yes. Now I realize the entire motor revolves around the shaft. Not just a counter weight. In that case you would need to stablize the shaft by expoxying a receptacle (shaft sized diameter) to the base of the decoy and epoxying the shaft into the receptacle. I'm sure the weasel ball must have the same type of shaft receptacle in its bottom to house the shaft. Can it be removed? However, I would think that all the wobble motion would dislodge the shaft from a glued on receptacle in the decoy. The bottom half of the ball keeps the motor from doing just that. That's why my original thought of just the bottom of the weasel with the motor still attached, raised slightly with a short piece of pvc pipe, may be the best option.
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby remi917 » Fri Jan 13, 2012 12:57 pm

Thanks for all the input, I was thinking about taking the bottom of the ball and using a dremmel tool to just cut out around the piece that holds the shaft and epoxying that to the bottom (or top for less stability?), rather then having the whole ball in there. But then I'm not sure that this is any different then going back to step 1 where the whole ball is in there. But I agree- It would be cool to have some kind of "switch" to easy on and easy off. Maybe make the eyeball a start/stop button :smile:

But then, as suggested, using a piece of 3" PVC pipe or so to set the ball in to to raise the center of gravity, I was thinking what if you did use the bottom of the ball, set it in a tall piece of PVC pipe and let it wobble WITHIN the PVC pipe? Not sure if that makes any sense but that was a thought I had.
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby snapshotmd » Sat Jan 14, 2012 4:45 pm

remi917 wrote:But then, as suggested, using a piece of 3" PVC pipe or so to set the ball in to to raise the center of gravity, I was thinking what if you did use the bottom of the ball, set it in a tall piece of PVC pipe and let it wobble WITHIN the PVC pipe? Not sure if that makes any sense but that was a thought I had.


If I'm understanding you right, it wouldn't make a difference. You're just making more work to get the same result as leaving the ball bottom intact and mounting it to the bottom of the decoy. You're just merely replacing the ball for a cylinder. The motor will still revolve around the same space.

FWIW, in a Hot Buys deek, I've noticed that if you mount/immobilize the ball, the deek will rock at a consistent rate. If the ball is allowed to roll, the rocking is irregular as the ball is rolling from one side of the deek to the other. So the deek is going to list from one side to the other while rocking.

The question is "which type of rocking do you prefer?" I like the regular rocking (immobilized ball) motion better. But then, this may not be the type of ripple ducks make.

My buddy doesn't like the rocking motion because it's not natural; ripples are made by ducks moving thru water. But then again, it's better than glass-still water.
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby O2Fsh » Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:27 am

snapshotmd wrote:
If I'm understanding you right, it wouldn't make a difference. You're just making more work to get the same result as leaving the ball bottom intact and mounting it to the bottom of the decoy. You're just merely replacing the ball for a cylinder. The motor will still revolve around the same space.




IF we are talking about mounting the motor higher in the body cavity using a piece of PVC it certainly should increase the amount of motion. Think about a pry bar... the farther up the handle you grab it the more motion/energy you're imparting to the working end. Or, consider the motion increase if one were to climb a mast on a sail boat. The main deck may just be slightly moving but the top of the mast may be moving upwards of 30 degrees each side of zero on an arc.

Also, from reading it seems as some are suggesting securing the shaft to the decoy and having the motor turn. If I am reading it wrong I apologize. However, if one were to secure the shaft and allow the motor to spin how would one deal with the wire twist that arrangement is going to produce? Again, if I am misreading it please ignore.

My homemade motion feeder butt worked like a champ in the marsh yesterday. Offsetting the bilge pump and directing the splash at the tail of the decoy really improved the splash and imparted a really cool rocking motion to the feeder butt. I think the poor results on my initial trial was due to poor battery charging. The waterproof (?) box leaked again.... :mad: Anyone know where to get good/cheap waterproof boxes on-line? Resolved the leak by sealing a plastic shopping bag in the opening before closing the snaps. Slowed the leak enough to prevent flooding. Once the season is over, I'll make 2-3 more for next season and a couple for hunting buddies.


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Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby success » Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:43 am

Search large waterproof box by outdoor products on amazon. About $8. You have to drill a hole and then seal it with 3m 5200. Works perfectly for motion decoys
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby tenfingergrip » Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:41 am

O2Fsh wrote:


Also, from reading it seems as some are suggesting securing the shaft to the decoy and having the motor turn. If I am reading it wrong I apologize. However, if one were to secure the shaft and allow the motor to spin how would one deal with the wire twist that arrangement is going to produce? Again, if I am misreading it please ignore.
You are reading it right, however you need to look at how the weasel motor works. The shaft is secured in the bottom of the ball and the entire motor with battery spins around the shaft. The battery is offset to the side of the motor and that is what gives the weasel the counterbalanced random flopping motion spin.

My homemade motion feeder butt worked like a champ in the marsh yesterday. Offsetting the bilge pump and directing the splash at the tail of the decoy really improved the splash and imparted a really cool rocking motion to the feeder butt. I think the poor results on my initial trial was due to poor battery charging. The waterproof (?) box leaked again.... :mad: Anyone know where to get good/cheap waterproof boxes on-line? Resolved the leak by sealing a plastic shopping bag in the opening before closing the snaps. Slowed the leak enough to prevent flooding. Once the season is over, I'll make 2-3 more for next season and a couple for hunting buddies.
Walmart sells them in the Outdoor Camping Section for $9.95 Mine has not leaked yet.

O2Fsh[/quote]
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby O2Fsh » Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:34 pm

Thanks TenFinger for the information and clearing up my misunderstanding.

Success.... I swear that is the exact box I bought locally (****'s) and it weeps about a 1/4 cup per hunt (5-6 hours).


I'll try another one from Amazon as per your suggestion.

Thanks!!

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Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby success » Sun Jan 15, 2012 11:25 pm

What are you using to seal it up? Try 3m 5200. I swear this will not leak. Also you may want to run a bead of silicone around the bottom half lip to help with leaking. I have 4 boxes made up and none leak and I have not run a bead of silicone around the lip but will if I need to.
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby O2Fsh » Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:48 am

Are you saying to put the 5200 on the seal and make it thicker so when it closes it compresses more? Great idea. Thanks!

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Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby success » Mon Jan 16, 2012 4:36 pm

Yea. But you can just use plain silicone. I use 5200 on the area where the power cable comes through. I just don't like using 5200 unless I have to. Its difficult to work with and gets on everything.
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby tenfingergrip » Mon Jan 16, 2012 6:05 pm

O2fish,
OK, I did the elevating mounting of the weasel ball in my G&H Magnum today to see the difference in the motion between the free rolling ball and the fixed/elevated ball with its center of gravity about 3 inches off the bottom of the decoy. The difference is not worth the effort. In fact, the free rolling ball, in a cut-off sock does a better job than the elevated, even though it does make a little more noise. I've attached pictures of what I did and a couple of videos of the two different options. What I did to raise the ball off the bottom was to cut a plastic stadium cup about 2 inches above the base, drill four holes in the base of the weasel ball, drill 4 corresponding holes in the cup, nest the ball in the cup and join the two with 4 pieces of 1/8" shock cord pulled tight and knotted. A knot inside the weasel bottom and a knot on the outside of the cup. I then epoxied the cup bottom to the inside of the decoy. The results are un-impressive, even though the engineering was flawless. This alteration in the original free-rolling weasel ball design left nothing to be desired and wasn't worth the effort.

Marking the cup to cut
[url]Image[/url]Cutting the cup
[url]Image[/url]
The cup
[url]Image[/url]Drilling holes in weasel bottom
[url]Image[/url]

Epoxy went on bottom of cup
[url]Image[/url]Cup and ball bottom expoxied to decoy with shock cord holding two together
[url]Image[/url]Image
Image
Image
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Re: Homemade motion duck decoy

Postby O2Fsh » Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:44 pm

Tenfingers,

Well, at least you tried. Sorry to have sent you down a dead end trail. I'm going to look into other means of moving the dekes. My Bilge-Butts, as my wife calls them, work really well and I think I'm going to see about making a Bilge-Deke. I'll try mounting a bilge pump on the bottom of a magnum decoy and mount the battery inside. I'm considering mounting the battery inside permanently, and only having a waterproof coupler fitting sticking out so I can either hook up the charger or the bilge pump as necessary.

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