Duck Hunting Tips of the Day

Main forum for general non waterfowl discussions as well as general duck hunting information about travel, rules and regulations, and other duck hunting info along with the general topics.

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Postby h2ofwlr » Wed Dec 08, 2004 1:28 pm

Dog rack for pick up with topper.


Put a piece of plywood that spans across the rails and about 2' wide. Staple the rubber bathroom carpet on it or screw in rubber bed liner material so the dog does not slip around and has a bit of cushion under him too. He gets to see out of the topper windows when he is lying down too. I store my emergency stuff under the rack. I use 5 gal plastic pails and put chains, etc.. in them. Spare trailer tire, lug wrnenches, etc.. extra clothing in a bucket too - it all goes under the rack.
BTW if you have a bigger dog or 2 medium dogs--you'll need to double up the 1/2" plywood because of the weight, so screw it together with 1" galv screws. Cut the second piece of plywood about 6" shorter and it goes under the longer piece. Make sure you use enough screws, and do it BEFORE you put the carpet on, eh.

Getting the rack in can be a hassle, but worth it IMHO. If you have side opening topper doors--it is real easy to do. If not I removed the window screen and slipped in the rack and reinstalled the 1/8" rubber rope that holds the screen in place. Place a topper hold down on the back side of the rack so when you accelerate the rack does not slide backwards. Actually I welded a "tab" of 3/8" x 3/4" to the metal hold downs to it so the rack would not jump it and slide backwards.

Bottom line is the dog is more comfortable and happier, and I can store more stuff in the truck. I've done this for the last 4 trucks I have owned. Works slick IMHO.
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Postby 98ramtough » Wed Dec 08, 2004 3:20 pm

H20- post some pics of that. that sounds neat. You could put all your decoys underneath and your dog would still be comfortable. I usually use a crate or the dog is burried in decoys... lol
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Postby SCoutdoorsman » Wed Dec 08, 2004 5:46 pm

:thumbsup: good stuff
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Postby TWO GSPS » Thu Dec 09, 2004 12:12 am

TRY SPRAYING WD-40 IN YOUR MOUTH. I HEAR THAT OIL AND WATER DON'T MIX SO YOUR CALL WILL NEVER STICK. :laughing:
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Postby Franchi » Thu Dec 09, 2004 8:16 am

Heres a little tip I heard from an old timer at the hunting camp. If you are interested in making your own decoy weights by melting your own lead, try using a muffin pan for the mold. I have used this before and my weights came out perfect. I also used clothes line wire instead of coat hangers for the hooks and the clothes line wire lets you have something bendable to wrap around the keel or head for a sucure line setup.

Good Luck

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Postby h2ofwlr » Thu Dec 09, 2004 8:46 am

Here are those pics of the dog platform in the back of my pickup. It takes a doubled up plywood so there is not so much sag and bounce to it. I glue it and screwed it together. There is a rubber mat screwed down on top for his comfort which os softer and keeping him from sliding around too. On the second pic I use the topper clamp with a welded piece on the edge to form a 1/2" high ridge so the platform does not slide around. (both sides have it) Notice that I store things under the rack. Emergency cold weather clothes, jacks, tow ropes, jumper cables, tie downs, shovels, etc....

[siteimg]468[/siteimg]
[siteimg]469[/siteimg]


As for the above muffin pan tip. 3 things. They also make mini mufin pans for light/smaller weights. And the clothes line is vinyl coated so it does not scratch the paint when looped over the head. The loop is long enough so that the lead weight rests below the decoy instead of the lead scraping the paint.

And as for making your own lead weight--remember the fumes are very poisionous. Do NOT breathe them! So do not even do it in the garage as the fumes deposit lead which can be serious matter for kids and adults getting lead poisoning. Strictly outdoors and down wind of the house or where kids play.
Last edited by h2ofwlr on Tue Apr 19, 2005 5:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Hey I resemble that comment!!! Those are FIGHTING WORDS!!!
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Postby Giv'em3 » Sat Dec 11, 2004 5:17 am

For those of you that use lay down blinds when it snows. Go to walmart and purchase that christmas tree fake snow spray. It's a buck a can. It is identical to the Avery real snow spray that sells for $7.99 a can. I keep a can in my blind bag at all times. You never know when it is going to snow. It' s all about concealment boys. :thumbsup:

Also it brushes off easily when the snow melts. :getdown:
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Postby h2ofwlr » Sat Dec 11, 2004 10:02 pm

Wait about 2 weeks and then the white flocking will be $1 a can at Wally World, Target, etc... as right now it is full price. I just had to laugh when I saw the $8 white flocking for hunters on the market. BTW as I recall the can should be warm when you spray it, so keep it in the truck cab when cold out.

Oh and another thing relating to the decoy weights mentioned above. To keep the lead from leaving lead deposits on the decoys---dip them in the vinyl plastic used for dipping pliers. Kind of spendy about $5 a can but it'll save the finish on the decoys. I dip them twice for added protection. I use a 12 oz plastic sour cream container for the bigger weights. Dip them up to the vinyl coated wire. buy a chaep 25 cent 1/2" wide throw away paint brush to help in spreading the goo as you are getting low on in. Hang them from nails on a horizontal 2x4. It is messy in that they drip the goo, so beware of this and use newspaper on the floor if doing it in the garage, etc...
Last edited by h2ofwlr on Mon Dec 13, 2004 9:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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"Typical: Gun-loving, bitter bible-thumping white person" Barack Obama.
Hey I resemble that comment!!! Those are FIGHTING WORDS!!!
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Postby Camo Man » Sun Dec 12, 2004 6:31 pm

If you want to know the true state of the Mallard migration just go to the radio tagged site and take a peek: http://vestig.cast.uark.edu/website/waterfowl/
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Postby Giv'em3 » Sun Dec 12, 2004 8:38 pm

Keep the can in the cab of your truck.


Good point h2ofowl, I think the can has to be like 55 degrees F, or something like that.
Last edited by Giv'em3 on Sun Dec 12, 2004 9:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby mallardhunter » Sun Dec 12, 2004 8:48 pm

Why use that stuff when you can find something cheaper. A guy was telling a story when he forgot the spray and remembered that he had some tolet paper in his truck and used it on his blind. That is pretty good thinking if you are out in the field and didn't have any snow camo. Here is the story.

http://www.nodakoutdoors.com/members/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=9826
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Postby duckplucker » Mon Dec 13, 2004 7:51 pm

Wow... i'm learning a lot just by reading.
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Postby SCoutdoorsman » Tue Dec 14, 2004 3:59 am

duckplucker wrote:Wow... i'm learning a lot just by reading.


Glad to hear it, I am learning as well from all these smart guys :salude: thats why we are here.
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Postby Hunten E Guy » Tue Dec 14, 2004 1:55 pm

CAMO, THAT IS REALLY A COOL SITE, I ET THEY WLL EARN ALOT FROM THAT :thumbsup:
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Postby yellowlab » Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:51 pm

:withstupid: yeah pretty cool site camo .. hey duckpluker haven't seen you in a while
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Postby mallardhunter » Wed Dec 15, 2004 10:23 pm

When you can't drive out into a field and you have to haul fully body decoys out. On big feet you can take a long pole and put it through the middle of the feet and then you and your hunting buddy can carry more out and make less trips.
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Postby Merganser » Thu Dec 16, 2004 7:35 am

SC, re: your sock on battery in Robo Duck idea, I use a beer can hugger to put battery in. Fits perfect and works!
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Postby Merganser » Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:19 am

I started rigging my impound hunting decoys differently a few years back and it works better for me: the impound water depth is usually about knee deep. I take a 4 oz. oval shaped lead egg weight, drill hole through it, and let it slip up and down the decoy anchor line. I use 1,000 lb. outrigger line for decoy line because it is slicker. I put a loop at end of decoy line and use about 2-1/2 ft. of line. I made a hook out of a 5-gal bucket handle that I use to pick up decoys with and usually hook about a dozen decoys on one hook. When you put out decoys, you just unhook them allowing to fall in water. Then, stand there and throw decoys around. The weights will slide to end of line where loop is and decoy will float in place. When you pick up decoys, just catch loop on hook and weight will slide up to decoy. You can drag them in water until gathered and then put in bag (if you bag them). Actually, I do not bag them nor do I use the hook since I use a small plastic boat to carry decoys to blind and out. I just pick up decoys and throw them in boat.
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Postby SCoutdoorsman » Thu Dec 16, 2004 10:00 am

Merganser wrote:SC, re: your sock on battery in Robo Duck idea, I use a beer can hugger to put battery in. Fits perfect and works!
:thumbsup:
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Postby ks_waterfowler » Fri Dec 17, 2004 1:06 am

Bluebird days make great hunts. The glare coming off the water makes it alot tougher for the birds to see. Alot easier picking out drakes too. Had one of my best hunts ever on a day with a 15 mph wind and not a cloud in the sky. birds landing around me while picking up my decoys. I really think the sun can be your best friend.
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Postby Giv'em3 » Wed Dec 22, 2004 1:27 am

Come on guys, post up. We can all learn. :thumbsup:
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Postby SCoutdoorsman » Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:24 am

On those cold cold days for guys that dont have to many of them, check your gas line filter in your engine b/c condensation may bave developed in there and it may be a block of ice. And when your buddy puts you in, espically in the river its not a good thing :pissed: . Trust me I want start. :thumbsup:
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Reconsider the dollar bill

Postby macdaddy » Wed Dec 22, 2004 10:33 am

Cleaning your duck call reed w/ a dollar bill is a good idea; if only the average dollar bill hadn't passed through roughly several hundred million potentially dirty, diseased hands. Remember - the call is on your mouth. How many times have you inhaled through it? Carry a piece of clean paper or paper towel. Much more sanitary. Hey - we get precious few days out there in the swamps, lakes, & grain fields; why risk fewer w/ colds, infections, the flu.
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Postby SCoutdoorsman » Wed Dec 22, 2004 2:27 pm

When cleaning your decoys and letting them remain overly long in the sun is a mistake. The major cause of shortening the life of a plastic decoy is exposure to sunlight and heat. Plastic exposed to sunlight becomes brittle over the years. Excessive heat blows hollow decoys up like balloons and can cause pinholes that will leak next season. :thumbsup:
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Postby texas_quackwakker » Fri Dec 24, 2004 8:08 am

Here is a tip that I think most of us can use.

If you are like me and have a couple of dekes that have been the victim of a few (or maybe more than a few) stray bb's and sink or dont float correctly.

Drill holes in the bottom about an inch away from the keel with about a 1/2 inch drill bit and fill them up with that niftly foam insulation that comes in a spray can at your local hardware store.

I tried this one day and could not believe how well it works. If you overfill the decoy it just comes out of one of the hols and you can cut it off flush with the finish.

Homemade solid decoys. By the way....I have hit the ones that I have filled with foam by some stray shot and they float like there no tomorrow.

Best thing I have done to save money to date...besides stay at home and not hunt....which kinda sucks anyway.

Hope this helps
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