Steps to painting a shotgun (dial up users beware)

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Steps to painting a shotgun (dial up users beware)

Postby stumpjumper » Sat Mar 31, 2007 4:14 pm

**** Sorry guys, I can not paint anyones gun as my real job requires me to be out of the country for 6 to 8 months a year ****
Ok guys, after posting pics of the guns that I`ve painted, I`ve recieved alot of requests on a step by step process. I have taken in a gun from Fowl Wishes here at DHC to see how someone other than me, family, and friends like it. He will post up when it`s returned and let you boys know what he thinks. Until then here is a detailed account of what I do.

First here is a before pic of the victim. She is a Remington SP 10 duck killing machine.

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Pretty ain`t she :wink:

1. The gun was completly diassembled and cleaned internaly.

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2. All wood was sanded to remove the clear coat and stain if any. If your painting a composite stock and forearm, ruff it up with some 120 frit so that it holds paint. Any rust on the metal was sanded to prevent future rusting. This part is extreamly important! Any areas not to be painted were taped off. Finally the entire gun was wiped down with thinner to remove any dust or forgein particals. Also make sure to wear thin rubber gloves when your cleaning all of the parts. If not you run the chance of leaving oil from your hands on the parts and it WILL rust under the paint.

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3. The paint used for the primer, base and overspray are
a. Rust-oleum gray auto primer
b. Krylon reed brown ultra flat
c. Krylon OD green ultra flat
d. Krylon black ultra flat ( also there is a dark brown that Krylon offers. You can use it instead of black. Personaly I think it looks better with the dark brown. I call it the chocolate pattern


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4. I hung the gun parts using thin hemp purchased at Wally world in the craft department.

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5. Next I sprayed 2 coats of primer and allowed it to dry between coats. Pay attention to all the nooks and cranies. Go light until you get the feel of it or you`ll end up with the runs :biggrin: Do not apply to much paint. If you apply to much it will crack due to build up. Just enough to cover the parts completly. After this dries it may be neccasary to run some 400 grit sand paper over composit or wood pieces. Some of these products absorb the paint and swell causeing the surface to be rough. After you re-sand them make sure to hit them with the primer again.

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6. After the primer is dry, I apply 2 coats of the Krylon reed brown. Again take your time. ( Just enough to fully cover all parts )

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7. After everything is good and dry, remove all of the pieces and place them on a flat area covered in newspaper. I went into my field and picked some dead weeds for the over spray. For the first color, OD green, I usualy choose a thicker diameter weed such as johnson grass. This way you will leave some of the reed brown showing thru. Grasp the reeds in one hand and hold them against the surface of the gun. Spray slowly over the weeds, make sure not to move or they will be fuzzy. Keep the spray can about 6" from the parts and lightly spray until you get the desired color. Then move to another area of the gun and repeat. Make sure to rotate the weeds to creat varying patterns ( rotate left/right/up/down ) Remember this is the back ground. Do one side of one piece at a time. Let it COMPLETLY dry before turning it over to do the other side. One thing to always check is to make sure that you keep the darkness or lightness of each piece roughly the same. If not it will look like a calico cat when assembled.


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8. After you have finished the OD green the black is next. Go and pick you some more weeds. But this time they should be as thin as you can find. Do the same process as before but watch it with the black. To much here and she will be TO dark. Go light your just adding a small amount of detail to the backgroun to give it depth.

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9. Now I bring the gun inside and assymble the barrel, reciever, trigger, and the butt stock. This is done so that when you paint the reeds and allow them to transfer from piece to piece. Also you need to make sure that the background is even through out the entire gun.

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10. Here is a list of paints that I use to do the reeds in the order that they are applied.
a. American accents taupe
b. American accents nutmeg
c. American accents hunters club green
d. Rust-oleum flat black

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11. And here are the brushes that I used. They can be found at any art store.
a. 1/4" angled medium bristle
b. 3/8" angled medium bristle

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12. To paint the reeds, place the brush on the surface so that the angle is against the gun with the long end of the angle farthest away from you. Try to start at an area of the gun that has an edge so that the reeds apear to be coming out of that spot. As you draw the brush away from the starting point decrease the amount of pressure that you are applying and try to flic your wrist slowly to create the thin tips of the reeds. Change the way the reeds flow to create a varying pattern. Move down the side of the gun and feel in the reeds as dense as you want. This first process is done with the color taupe only.

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13. Now for the fun part. The next process you will us the nutmeg only. Your going to do this step the same as the last, but the twist is you will be going OVER the reeds you painted the first time. Don`t cover the whole reed only part of it. This is adding the detail of varying colors of the reeds. This is where most people make mistakes. It is difficult to make the brush go over the same area you`ve already painted. Practice first.

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14. Now you will use the green. Only place a few green reeds to the gun. If you add to many it will not blend in as well. The green gives it a realistic look. These are done seperatly from the other reeds.

15. The final color is black. You will use this to place a small amount to 85% of the total reeds including the green ones. This will really bring out the detail in your reeds and set them apart from the background. Remember only 85% of the reeds. That way in will apear as two different layers of reeds. Those close and those a little further away. One thing to remember about the black is go small. Don`t cover your other colors. Your only adding fine detail.

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16. Let the paint dry overnight in a warm place. The last process is the clear matte finish. This will help to protect the paint in inclement weather. I use a clear acrylic sealer personaly but and clear in matte finish will work ( try Krylon matte finish as well )

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17. Hang the gun back up and apply the sealer. I personaly do three coats. If possible place the gun in the sun while drying. The suns heat will practical bake the stuff on hard as a rock. Or you can buy a heat lamp bulb and place it in a aluminum drop light. Hang it near the parts in a barn or someplace to let it heat up and bake in.

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Here is the finished project all assymbled. I`ll let her dry for at least another 24 hours just to make sure it`s good to go.


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This is a fun projest for others to try. If you mess up, start over again. Take your time and have fun with it.

I would like to thank Fowl Wishes for trusting a stranger enough to send me his gun and letting me know what he thinks when it arrives back to him. And also ol`yeller who came up with the first post on painting a gun. Your info was invaluable.


STUMP
Last edited by stumpjumper on Fri Nov 21, 2008 2:43 pm, edited 9 times in total.
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Postby fowl_wishes » Sat Mar 31, 2007 4:57 pm

I feel so exposed and dirty. :lol:

Very impressed. now that you have updated with the fianl steps I can't wait to see the reeds and get my hands on it!!
Shoot'em close. Less to pick.

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Postby Citori12 » Sun Apr 01, 2007 8:32 pm

Great job on the sp-10....WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!! its a good thing I hunt geese out of a pit and they do not see my shotgun cause I am not sure I have the guts to paint a 1000 dollar shotgun especially when its worked good for years without paint!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Postby bgoldhunter » Sun Apr 01, 2007 8:52 pm

I do what you do, up until the brush strokes...what a difference that makes. That Remmy looks great!

Time to get some brushes and get to work.


Hey C12...good to see ya around!
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Postby HighBaller » Mon Apr 02, 2007 3:23 pm

That looks awesome. Great work there.
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Postby ohsay » Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:45 pm

Looks great! Might have to try one. Do you only do wood stocks or have you done synthetics as well? If so, any other steps involved there?
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Postby Maineduckhunter » Mon Apr 02, 2007 10:45 pm

Wow, very impressive to say the least, great job.
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Postby stumpjumper » Tue Apr 03, 2007 4:56 am

Ohsay, follow the same steps for synthetic or plastic stocks. Make sure to rough it up as shown so the primer will stick.

STUMP
Last edited by stumpjumper on Tue Apr 03, 2007 5:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Band Bandit » Tue Apr 03, 2007 4:42 pm

Let me know when you start taking orders and what you plan on charging. Im sold on your work just looking at it, you produce a great finnish.
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Postby HNTFSH » Thu Apr 05, 2007 8:07 am

Stump,

That is FANTASTIC work brother.

If I mail you my wife of 22 years can you paint her up a bit? Maybe in a super-model pattern or a Real Hottie Max 4? :yes:
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Postby fowl_wishes » Thu Apr 05, 2007 10:01 pm

ok guys and girls, i got the shotgun in my hands today. let me just start by saying that i love it. i couldnt be more happy with it. i have no regrets getting it done by stump and would reccommend him to anyone that asks. but there is some info the you shoudl know before you send a gun off to stump.

I was apprehensive about sending a $1000 shotgun thru the mail to a person that i had never met. I corresponded with Stump through several PMs, and also went thru and checked up on a few posts he had made. Seems kind of shady now, but i wanted to get a feel for his character. I decided that my impression was the he was trustworthy. I was correct. Everythign that he told me, he did. Even when we had some troublw with the postal service he never complained about what seemed to be my constant nagging. Thanks Bro.

He gave me a time line, and stuck to it. He even went so far as to PM me between steps. AT last count i had sometwhere around 25 PMs total just from the date that i mailed the gun. That doesn not include the PMS that we shared makign arrangements for the gun to arrive. Stuff like that is appreciated when someone has your pride and joy spread out on their kitchen table. I can imagine that if he does begin taking customers he is the type to do one at the time so that he will pay as much attention to detail as he did with me.

Now that you know abou the man, lemme tell you about the gun. The gun is beautiful in my eyes. The camo pattern is expected towork very very well. The depth and detail is excellent. Far better than anything i could have done on my own. But in all fairness, it is not somethign for everyone. There are peopel taht will look at the fancy dipped guns and factory cammo guns and thinkt hat my gun is not up to par. There are brush strokes in the finish, one partial finger print, and the layer of the different reed colors gives the finish a texture. But guess waht folks, this is a HAND painted gun. I like knowing that. I will always take pride in knowing that this guns was custom painted. There is no other gun like mine.

The only spot that i see paint wear unavoidable is where the forend rubs onthe barrel. But this is goign to happen with any camo finish. There is no way that i can be avoided. Stump cant decided where the paint shoudl stop and the forend begins. But once the forend makes its own relief in the paint, the wear should plateau. And if my camo gets scratched or chipped in other places, i can touch mine up. how many dips can do that and still look good? :yes: It woudl also seem to me that the camo could be SOMEWHAT tailored to yrou surroundings.l I would not go as far to say that it could be custom cammo, but stump coudl easily change the overall darkness or color scheme byt changint eh ratio of background, reeds, colors, etc. if you wanted him to. he is more than capable.

The gun also came to be packaged better than when i sent it to stump. my sp10 was also totally cleaned and lubed. I have no problem with sticking it directly int eh gun safe until season opener. That is a nice step.


As for pricing, I am going to give him my opinion on the subject, but it seems that he would want any opinion he could get. So feel free to ante' up.


Thanks a lot Stump. Ya did a great job! :thumbsup:


PS. I know that there are way too many typos in this post, But quite frankly i am too tired to fix them all. I will edeit them later to make it easier to read.
Shoot'em close. Less to pick.

They might get my guns, but they'll get the bullets first !
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Postby jjohnson_714 » Thu Apr 05, 2007 10:18 pm

holy smokes stump, that looks awesome :eek:
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Postby LA.Call'emClose » Thu Apr 05, 2007 11:24 pm

Sticky Pleaz. Great Job. I just may have to try that on my friends Wally World Rem 870 . I dont think he will be able to stop me from doing this project on his gun.
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Postby stumpjumper » Fri Apr 06, 2007 5:58 am

Fowl, let me thank you for your honesty first and foremost! :thumbsup: The most important thing to me is that you are happy with the job. I pride myself on honesty and integraty above all else. My word is my bond. And also let me appoligize for the mistake with the postal company. That was my fault. No excuse.

As for the paint job it`s self. You stated some obvious things that others need to know before they attempt the job themselves. Fist is, the reeds are brush painted and because of this there will be brush strokes and you WILL feel the paint as it sitts on top of the sprayed colors. Try to keep the paint as thin as possible when you do this part. You can help it but not eliminate it. Second, is as Fowl mentioned. The foreend of the gun does make contact with the barrel when in place and when you assemble the gun it slides across this area. Therfore there is going to be some wear there. I did try to sand te edges on the foreend to help minimize this but is you sand to much the foreend will be loose on the barrel. Just break the sharp edge. Third, the one mistake that I made was the partial index finger print. It happened on the last coat of Acrylic coating. I swear I thought it was dry. Good eyes there Fowl :thumbsup: Now don`t go postal on anyone with that puppy. Once they find my partial print CSI is going to come looking for the Stumpster :eek: Play nice.

And just to let everyone know, Fowl is a good ole feller. I`d share my blind with you anyday brother.

STUMP
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Postby Webfoot12 » Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:34 am

Very nice work....
Rest in peace my friend... Mocha- Jan 20th, 2001-Feb 1st, 2009.
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Postby fowl_wishes » Fri Apr 06, 2007 10:09 am

stump, ya dont have to reveal all yoru secrets. you could have played stupid on the finger print :thumbsup:
Shoot'em close. Less to pick.

They might get my guns, but they'll get the bullets first !
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Postby BigBend » Fri Apr 06, 2007 3:39 pm

stump-
you should do a WHOLE boat like that...........oh wait you already have.lol. Seriously though, great detail oriented work and thats a skill to be proud of.
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Postby fowl_wishes » Fri Apr 06, 2007 3:47 pm

yea stump, how much ya charge to do a boat? how much do you think shipping would be on it? i need to start looking for a bigger box :lol:
Shoot'em close. Less to pick.

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Postby MossyGO! » Fri Apr 06, 2007 11:13 pm

just a little heads up, using an acrylic latex paint such as satin on top of an oil based paint will not adhere very well. Hopefully the reed detail will not chip away from the spray paint base coats.
idahofowler wrote: i can shoulder a gun faster than anyone i know. i try to let the people i'm hunting with have the first shot because i can clean house even if i fire last. with instinct shots, no one beats me.
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Postby stumpjumper » Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:11 pm

Mossy, That is a MAJOR NEGATIVE! :no: Boat and all are done the same way. Boat has been good to go for two seasons now. I`ll give you the address, come look for yourself.

STUMP
Last edited by stumpjumper on Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby fowl_wishes » Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:13 pm

:eek:

is it too late to talk about a warranty stump? :lol:
Shoot'em close. Less to pick.

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Postby stumpjumper » Sun Apr 08, 2007 6:53 am

Fowl, You don`t know it yet, but she came with a warranty :thumbsup: My word! If you have problems, just let me know brother. I`ll pay for the dipping. But have know fear I`ve been doing paintings/drawings for awhile now. I`ve just resently found something I DO enjoy painting finally. CAMO

A sticky :eek: Thanks guys, that made my day! :thumbsup:

STUMP
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Postby MossyGO! » Sun Apr 08, 2007 7:36 am

Hey stump,
I wasn't questioning your work, I was just going off my choices of paint when it came to my gun. My wife has been canvas painting for years and she told me that acrylics won't bond real well with oil based so that's what I wanted to get out there. I'm sure your guns will hold up for a very long time. So once again, I wasn't taking a shot at your work. After all, your work is the reason I decided to give my gun a try. It's almost done, only have the detail work left. I couldn't find the american accent paints so I'm going to mix some leftover decoy paint for the detail reeds.
idahofowler wrote: i can shoulder a gun faster than anyone i know. i try to let the people i'm hunting with have the first shot because i can clean house even if i fire last. with instinct shots, no one beats me.
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Postby stumpjumper » Sun Apr 08, 2007 8:11 am

Mossy, SORRY if that came accross wrong there, or took your post out of context. No hard feelings!

I`m glad to see you are painting your gun. That`s what the post was intented for. If you find a better application process by all means let others know.
I was at the store the other day looking for the American Accent paints as well. But they have changed the colors that they carry there. I`m looking for the web site to locate some. If not I`ll look around and find the colors needed but in a different brand.
Post up the pics of that gun when your done. I`d love to see it.

STUMP
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Postby RI_dead_duck » Sun Apr 08, 2007 9:58 am

stump, doi you have any pictures of a gun that you painted that got used over the past season....just wanna see how they wear or if the paint wore out in spots?....just curious
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