Steps to painting a shotgun (dial up users beware)

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Postby Canned Heat » Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:51 am

Gooshuntr74 wrote:Does any one on here do this commercially? If so please get back to me with a price......Thanks


I've seen a couple different people/firms that do this and I've asked for some info or quotes. I'll post something when I hear back. I'm going to do it myself more than likely, one, because I have 4 of those paints that I just did some treestands and climbing sticks with last fall and I've painted quite a few things camo. Not nearly as detailed as some of these jobs though.

I'd like to know if Stump is still doing it and if so what he charges....
(hint, hint....Stump you out there?) :help:
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Postby stumpjumper » Tue Jan 29, 2008 5:05 pm

Guys THANKS for the compliments on the camo job. From fellow duck hunters it means the WORLD to me. Unfortunitly, I do not do this as a side job :no: . My current job takes me out of the country at least 6 months out of the year. On top of that I have a comittment as a pro-staffer that takes weekends away from me before and during turkey season. Also, I don`t have the space at the house as of yet. The wife and I have talked and are looking at one day building a shop. Until the day comes that I have the time and the space to do the BEST job possible and provide a resonable turn around I`ll have to pass on taking orders. That is why I made this post to try and help people out to do camo jobs thereselves.

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Postby duckcrazy69 » Sun Feb 10, 2008 3:38 pm

quick question what would you use to fix any dents and dings in the wood on the stock of the gun
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Postby stumpjumper » Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:20 pm

duckcrazy69 wrote:quick question what would you use to fix any dents and dings in the wood on the stock of the gun


I know this is going to sound funny BUT, I use Bondo. Works great, dries quickly and can be sanded to feather in. I do this all the time

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Postby fowl_wishes » Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:00 pm

If it is a shallow dent with a fairly wide diameter (say anything over 1/4 inch) you can sometimes steam them out. But that meant getting all of the finish and sealers off of it.
Shoot'em close. Less to pick.

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Postby cusportsman » Mon Feb 18, 2008 10:17 am

where did you buy your camo paint from? i've been to walmart, ace, home depot, lowes

would the rustoleum camo paints work the same? the colors seemed a little dark though
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Postby cusportsman » Mon Feb 18, 2008 6:45 pm

nevermind, found it at walmart
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Postby Canned Heat » Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:48 pm

Their (Rusto) colors do run a tad darker than the Krylon that Stump used, especially the Khaki brown. From what I've been told and have read, when you spray your coats of flat or matte clear, it will actually lighten or brighten the paint tones a bit. Would've concurred with Stump, but I've emailed him a half dozen times since I started and am probably becoming a nuisance.

I've got mine to the point of stencilling with the darker colors(all khaki'd) and haven't been able to get at it...but this weekend may be the time. I'm doing the rifled slug barrel too, so it's going to take ma a bit longer. Found a piece of Max-4 fabric that I'm going to use as a reference backer...looking forward to the finished product.
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Postby Canned Heat » Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:50 pm

Gooshuntr74 wrote:Does any one on here do this commercially? If so please get back to me with a price......Thanks


http://www.dynamicfinishes.com/photos.html
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Postby cusportsman » Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:22 pm

should i paint the reeds on or should i leave it like it is? or should i take it back apart and darken it up a little and then paint the reeds on?

Image
Image
Image
Image

and yes i know i need to paint the end cap, forgot about it earlier
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Postby Snowbird » Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:17 pm

so, did anyone apply a matte coating between the background spray and the reed painting? would that hurt the bond of the reeds? i was considering doing that with the final few coats still being a matte finish.
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Postby Canned Heat » Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:16 am

I'm just short of that stage, but no I won't. I think you'll get the depth out of the reeds alone and I'm going to spray the whole shootin' match after it's done...at least 3 times. I'd be surprised if you'd have any issues with flaking of the brush on paints. Those spray paints are formulated to bond to damn near anything, I'm sure another paint brushed on over them a bit thicker won't be an issue and once you matte coat it all, the whole thing will be sealed up anyway.

I'm alterring mine a bit and I'm using some small branch effects with some reeds and a little more green for an all-purpose camo for waterfowl and turkey...which is coming up 2 months from today.

Looks like sunday is paintin' day. It's going to be in the mid-40's here in Wisco...damn near summer!!
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Postby stumpjumper » Wed Feb 27, 2008 6:18 pm

Snowbird wrote:so, did anyone apply a matte coating between the background spray and the reed painting? would that hurt the bond of the reeds? i was considering doing that with the final few coats still being a matte finish.


SB, I have not attempted this. I`m currently in Mexico, I would read the instructions on the can to see if they recommend this. If nothing else try it on a small piece of metal and see how it works first. I`d hate to see you have problems with the process on the gun.
By the way, if that color background works for you in your area go with it. Where I hunt it needs to be a little darker. It looks real nice though. Great job sir

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Postby cusportsman » Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:56 pm

i decided to leave it like i had it, i know it looks REALLY light in the pics, but it is darker in person, i'm pretty happy with the way it turned out, not sure how durable it's going to be, but if it come down too it, i'll strip it and paint it again, it was fun
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Postby stumpjumper » Thu Feb 28, 2008 7:19 am

As long as you followed the directions on prep, primer, and applied the matte finish you will be very surprised at the durability. I have hunted mine for two hard years. I have some small nicks but it never went thru the gray primer. I`m not going to touch it up so I can see how well it does and give reports

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Postby fowl_wishes » Thu Feb 28, 2008 11:21 am

I used my SP10 (the one in the original post) off and on this year and have very little wear. Adn the places where it IS nicked were my fault.
Shoot'em close. Less to pick.

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Postby cusportsman » Thu Feb 28, 2008 1:28 pm

i just wish it would've been a little warmer and i could have let each coat "bake" on there for a while, but the cool part is, it only cost me about $20 or so, and if it starts to wear bad, i can strip it down and do it all over again without a problem
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Postby stumpjumper » Thu Feb 28, 2008 6:19 pm

cusportsman wrote:i just wish it would've been a little warmer and i could have let each coat "bake" on there for a while, but the cool part is, it only cost me about $20 or so, and if it starts to wear bad, i can strip it down and do it all over again without a problem


Beats paying a buttload for a dip job don`t it. And it` personal to you

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Postby Canned Heat » Thu Feb 28, 2008 9:20 pm

Here's where I'm at...basically Step 3 or 4 (?). I pieced her back together so I can get consistent patterns between the 2 barrels.

Image

I'm almost giddy to get going after saw some of the others that are finished.

Stump, you're a modern day "Pied-piper".
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Postby stumpjumper » Thu Feb 28, 2008 9:48 pm

Thanks CH. Just glad your having fun with it. Post up when you get her done. By the way, nice work area :thumbsup:

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Postby quack smoker » Thu Mar 06, 2008 6:49 pm

awesome job on that gun looks like it just come from the weeds.
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Paint

Postby mongonius » Sun Mar 09, 2008 9:09 am

Stump, I have searchedAce, Walmart, Autozone, and the Krylon website and have had no luck finding the "reed brown". They have Khaki in the Camo paint. Same thing? I want to use exactly what you used. I found Krylon's "Olive" but not "olive drab green".

Any suggestions? I noticed that you used rust-oleum primer i/o Krylon. Is the rust oleum better. Thanks for helping a newbie. Ready to get my 10 guage cammoed up for the geese.
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Postby Canned Heat » Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:46 am

I think you can make due with any makes, it's just getting the similarities down...as you've pointed out. They are a tad bit off Mongo, but I think you'll be fine. Most of these are just a hue lighter or darker, but all have the same "flat" finish. In case you're stuck, here's the different options I looked at and used:


Krylon: http://www.krylon.com/main/color_produc ... alt=Krylon®Camouflage Made with Fusion

H.S. Strut: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... &noImage=0

Rustoleum: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=124

I am using a few of the Krylon's mixed with mostly Rustoleum colors. I'm going after a Max-4 kind of look with a few more hints of green. You'll note the Rustoleum doesn't have a brown other than khaki, and I want some brown elements, so I picked up some of the HS Strut paint.
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Re: Paint

Postby stumpjumper » Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:18 pm

mongonius wrote:Stump, I have searchedAce, Walmart, Autozone, and the Krylon website and have had no luck finding the "reed brown". They have Khaki in the Camo paint. Same thing? I want to use exactly what you used. I found Krylon's "Olive" but not "olive drab green".

Any suggestions? I noticed that you used rust-oleum primer i/o Krylon. Is the rust oleum better. Thanks for helping a newbie. Ready to get my 10 guage cammoed up for the geese.


Mon, as CH stated you can use other brands of paints that are very close in color for the reeds. I went to the Rust-o-leum site and it looks like they have change the taupe color to what they are now calling soft wheat. I haven`t seen it personaly but it looks to be very close in color.
Also know that if you go to Lowe`s they can mix ANY color you want. I knew a guy that took in some reeds and had them match the color ith the spectrometer they have in the store.

Olive drab is a name I used seeing as I WAS in the military at one time and that is their name for that flat brownish green. As long as it`s a military flat green you will be fine.

And as far as the primer. The Rustoleum primer I used is made for Automobiles. Which means it`s of a high quality than your normal primers in the chemical mixtures. As long as it`s AUTO primer you will be OK. Always start with a good base. If it ain`t right well you know.

STUMP
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Postby DiscoDuck » Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:15 pm

I've been back and forth a dozen times on whether or not I was going to do reeds or branches. My 870 is a multi purpose for goose/turkey/deer. Neither pattern was going to be right for both. When I got done with the first few steps, I liked the way it was looking. So, I did a few other colors with the grass and weed overspray, and I'm very happy with it. I only have the clear coat left to do, so when I'm done I'll get some pictures up. Thanks again Stump!
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