I've never made any boxes, so if you guys could help with a few questions
1) I've seen the different designs, but where is a good place to purchase the wood (not precut boxes)?
2) Why can't treated wood be used?
3) If using a metal pole as the stand...what is the best way to attach the box?
Did it...but didn't find the answer to those questions. I already printed out a design to follow, just had a few more questions that I couldn't find answers to.
Most of the boxes around here are made out of cypress as it is about equal with cedar in the no-rot category, but the lesser grades (like #2) are much cheaper than cedar. Just make sure to get boards with a roughsawn face or use a piece of hardware cloth on the inside to make it easier for the chicks to climb out. As far as connecting it to the pole, the most simple way is to straps like Brydog mentioned. If you do strap it into place make sure to put a set screw through the strap into the pole to keep the box from rotating.
Make sure that if your gonna build and put boxes up that you maintain them erryyear. That being said make it easy for yourself, place them in the water so you can access them by boat if possible and the most important is put a door on the side. Check these out, T Smart designed the easy access door which works great.
Great box but needs a better predator guard. Wood poles may look more natural but they rot over a period of time. You will find metal poles easier for installation and they last. Find a local lumber yard to purchase your lumber at, cedar or cypress depending on your area both work fine. Predrill your post to match holes in boxes for easy mounting. A good predator guard is a must, and in some states required by law. Check the conservation section lots of info posted.
I maintain over 250 woodduck boxes, have had over 200 for years now. Glad to share more info just pm.
FYI - DO NOT use Cedar for boxes, or cedar shavings inside the boxes.
As with Hamsters, cedar has been reported to cause respiratory issues with wood duck hens as well. Use pine shavings, and some natural unpainted wood for the boxes (Pine,Oak, Hemlock, Cypress)... but NO CEDAR. Stay away from any treat wood for boxes as well (but wood post can be treated).
I have some boxes I tried, and split the shaving types.... pine & cedar shavings.
Results - All the boxes with Pine shavings were used..... and only about 1/2 the boxes with Cedar shavings were NOT used.
I prefer metal post.... but if I do use wood, they are treated wood post. Sometimes a man has to use what is donated, if ya know what I mean.
We maintain around 200 boxes as well... :thumbsup: none are cedar. :thumbsup:
There are different types of Cedar.... the type you should avoided is "Aromatic Red Cedar". Any other species of cedar may work (I assume), but I just avoid it all together. I've heard ferrets and cockatiels have respiratory destress due to Aromatic Red Cedar chips as well...
Plywood has chemicals in the glue.... which doesn't make it the greatest type wood to use.... but it will work (better if it's untreated plywood). Plywood seems to rot quicker too.
Know whats funny? All the posts here saying do not use Cedar, but when you go to the DU site and follow its directions it says to use Cedar. I think the DU folks know what they are talking about. I don't think they would say use Cedar if the wood would harm the wood duck.
You are both right about cedar. "Red Cedar", particularly is the problem, this is only true though on fresh cut lumber, once it is seasoned its fine. The down side to cedar is it tends to split as it weathers. Plywood boxes will work, they just don't last as long. Some folks say plywood boxes get hotter, I really never have tested this, I think I will and post the results. Some areas have an abundant supply of white cedar, cypress is also an excellent choice if readily available.
well i used plywood and like i stated in the other thread, i got 13 eggs to hatch out of one. Just saying, you can use plywood, but there probably better wood out there that will last longer. I just used what i had, didnt cost me a thing.
Know whats funny? All the posts here saying do not use Cedar, but when you go to the DU site and follow its directions it says to use Cedar. I think the DU folks know what they are talking about. I don't think they would say use Cedar if the wood would harm the wood duck.
IMO - anywhere you normally see wood ducks. But, a few things will help get your boxes used...
1) Woodies are a "secretive" bird. You don't want to place a box where it'll be messed with by other boaters during recreational months (while hen's are hatching out chicks).
2) Place them 300 feet apart, or closer - if they are out of sight of each other (this prevents nest dumping).
3) Backwater beaver ponds or secluded coves are a good place.
4) I like them over water myself, but wood ducks will nest up to 1/2 mile from water.... so boxes on the shorelines work well too (if you don't have a boat)
When? Now. Birds pair in Feb., and start nesting anytime in late Feb - June (actullay saw a hen sitting on a nest in early August last year).
Hope that helps some....
T.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Duck Hunting Forum
3.2M posts
63.3K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to duck hunters and hunting enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about safety, gear, tips, tricks, optics, hunting, gunsmithing, reviews, reports, accessories, classifieds, and more!