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Alright you pistol shooting Gods

2K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  lunatic 
#1 ·
I'm having a little trouble with my 1911 maybe you guys can help me on.

I'm an awesome rifle shot, but seem to be having a slight problem with my SF A1 model with the original low hight mil-spec sights. I'm hitting the target left of center and am wondering what in my technique I'm doing wrong or if my gun is causing my technique to be bad.

I use a weaver stance and hold the trigger in the first joint of my finger. My breathing is perfect and I try to squeeze the trigger like a rifle on the exhale down, but it's a very stout trigger that requires a lot of effort.

Is the stiff trigger causing me to pull it left? Or is my finger too far over?

I don't think it's the gun because I had the same shot placement with my Sig I shot today.
 
#2 ·
you might be "milking" the grip as you squeeze the trigger, Your finger should be pulling but your hand should not be tightening around the grip. Some shooters squeeze the grip at the same time using the hand muscles along with the finger to fire the shot. what distance are you shooting? and does the gun fit your hand properly with a natural hold?
 
#3 ·
I'm pretty sure I was squezzing and turning the gun. I also found my sight was off. Tapped it over, changed finger position and was hitting bullseyes yesterday!

Gun still pulls a touch, but I think it's due to a trigger that is too heavy and shallow.
 
#5 ·
you can buy "drop in" trigger kits or if you really know what your doing, You can stone the sear and get some wolff springs to adjust your trigger pull weight. but to stone a sear is a delicate operation until you learn just how to do it correctly and you can cause safety issues. most GS's can lighten and smooth the trigger for you at a decent price
 
#7 ·
devildog28 said:
I'm getting good groups right now but I expect it to keyhole shots after it's done!
Keyhole is the word used when the bullet hits sideways rather than straight on, I do not think you want that do you?
 
#9 ·
yeah i am sure the trigger is having a bit to do with it pulling the way you talking... if you havent shot pistols that much then the larger cal. might have been causeing issues that you solved on your own the more you shot which would explan why you were getting better the next range session. 1911 are like the remingtion 700's GS or someone what with a little experiance can do wonders to triggers for very little
 
#10 ·
devildog28 said:
waterfowlhunter said:
devildog28 said:
I'm getting good groups right now but I expect it to keyhole shots after it's done!
Keyhole is the word used when the bullet hits sideways rather than straight on, I do not think you want that do you?
i always referred to them when the holes touched :huh:
I think you mean cloverleaf. Because if you shoot three that are touching, it often looks like a three leaf clover :thumbsup:
 
#11 ·
A rough and heavy trigger can definitely contribute to shots being pulled. Also, improper grip and/or trigger mechanics will almost always cause shots to be left or low/left for right handed shooters. Many people squeeze a trigger in segments, meaning they take up some slack, rest, take up a little more, stop then finish it off. This last hurrah will cause the shot to go left.

Start by assuring you have a proper grip. With the weaver stace you are using a 2-handed grip (which is good). Make sure the grip is properly placed in the primary hand and the off hand (left for right handed shooters) is cupping the fingers of the primary hand with the thumb pads resting against each other and both thumbs pointing at the target. The off hand actually pulls rearward against the primary hand causing a clamping action which allows the trigger finger (and remaining fongers of the primary hand) to relax. This permits the trigger finger to work independently of the rest of the hand and promotes a smooth and consistent trigger pull that takes up the slack and breaks in one smooth, fluid motion. Here is a link to a webpage that shows the various "combat" grips that are taught and utilized by the top shooters: http://www.handgunsmag.com/tactics_trai ... tg_100306/

A good way to practice is to get a cheap laser toy like one would use to play with a cat. Rubber band it to the slide of your UNLOADED gun (with the mag out and all ammo in another room). Take your proper grip and stance aiming the laser at a point on the wall and squeeze the trigger. With improper trigger mechanics the beam will bounce as the sear breaks...with proper work the beam will remain vurtually motionless. You can dry fire using this until you see and feel a smooth, fluid trigger pull with the beam staying put. Remember- practive does not make perfect, practice makes permanent...one needs to practice good technique in order to engrain proper methods.
 
#12 ·
Teufel Hunden,

1911's are basically the same in design since its introduction over 100 years ago. They are simple, JMB is a firearm genius. Concerning your trigger issue; the causes could be these three things: your trigger is dragging on the frame, sear spring to strong, main spring to strong.

In the last 2 years I have built 5 1911's from the ground up and I have run across your issues. IMO your issue is more likely to be caused by the sear spring and main spring. You can buy trigger pull kits from MidwayUSA from $115 - $180 or so and they come with Sear spring, hammer, sear, disconnector and main spring. The kits trigger pull are from 3.5lbs to 4.5lbs and it will take some fitting (minor). I would not attempt to stone the sear unless you have jig to do so.

Or you can attempt to do the job without buying parts; what I would do is to take the gun apart and polish the trigger rail, the frame were the trigger slides, adjust the sear spring, (by bending the middle piece slightly back to desire softness), this will soften your trigger.

Good luck on the project
 
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