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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Once I started eyeing things over especially the flipped over deck there was much more crown than I originally believed. If you remember when I first got it, the deck was cracked, sagging and rotten in several places. As I examined things a little closer I figured out there was about a 5/8" crown at the cockpit back to the transom and it tapered from the front of the cockpit down an 1/8" at each brace to the bow where it ran out to nothing at the tip of the bow. So wanting to keep things as true to form as possible, I went back in an added a curved shim to mimic the original braces. It was a ton of tedious work with a lot of sanding. What's funny is, I'm not 100% sure you'll be able to tell it when the decking goes on, but at least any water will slope off the sides.

On aN unrelated note, In the past week I have figured out I can work on a boat, watch a ballgame, or kill time without a dip! Here's to one week of being tobacco free after dipping for almost 30 years! Haha! Anyway, I installed the blocks that act as support for the oar lock blocks that my step dad is cutting from cypress. The two boards between the braces towards the bow are going to be for a set of pad eyes. There will also be a set towards the back of the rear supports. Combined with a rope harness, they will be used to hoist it up to the ceiling in the garage. Will probably go pick up the needed lumber to finish her up next weekend.

Going to work on rehabbing the piece of coaming I'm going to salvage today.









Lastly, I picked up this bow handle off of ebay, not sure if I'm going to use it or not. Looks to be roughly from the same era and hand forged. Figure once I get it, I'll flatten out the "wings" and see how it looks.



Brad
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
So I'm going to salvage the bent piece of the coaming. It was partially covered in poly resin and some remaining glass, a ton of screw holes, a few cracks and a couple of soft spots but overall it was quite sound and worth saving. Not to mention I don't have a steam box set up. First task was to remove the remaining part of the backer that originally covered the butt joint between the curved piece and the two straight pieces down each side. They were held on by 5 copper rivets so I used an oscillating tool and cut between the two pieces and cut the rivets.







So after a lot of sanding and removing the soft spots, I filled all the voids and cracks with cabosil.







Almost time for paint on the interior. Let her soak in some epoxy last night, once it cures it will be time for a light sand and paint.





So as I've been working on her, I've been searching for something to use as a bow handle. I'm not a 100% sure she ever had one. And most likely, if it did it was an pad eye and ring. It has a bronze half round on the front of the bow that folds back over onto the deck for about 2". Anyway, I polished the old bronze half rounds enough to remove any paint and poly resin but leaving the patina.



Regardless, I've been scouring the net and waiting for "something" to speak to me as well as listening to the old girl as restoration progresses and I can better see her lines. These are the options I've come up with so far. I have a poll/post going on the Toller Facebook page but feel free to post up your favorite.


No. 1 - I found this one on eBay and bought it as soon as I saw it. It is likely from the same time period and probably hand forged. I'm leaning towards this one but the plate will either need to be flattened or some type of mounting block will need to be made. While it looks large, it is only about 6" wide at the widest point.


No. 2 - I really like this one even though it is fairly modern with styling from the 50's. However, I would have to by the set of 5 pieces and it would be rather pricey considering I would probably only use the bow handle.


No. 3 - I like this one as well. It's simple and readily available as a Sunfish sailboat bow handle. Inexpensive at under $30.


No. 4 - Should have bought these even if I didn't use them as they went for a song. Regardless, they come up semi-often and if past prices stand they are moderately priced.


No. 5 - I bought this one on a whim and will either use it or hang on to it for another project. Regardless, I like this one as well but again, it's a fairly modern piece.


No. 6 - Lastly, this one is pretty cool although it isn't really meant to be a handle. It would present some issues with the faux canvas deck finish but nothing I couldn't work around. Also a pretty pricey piece.

Keep in mind, all with the exception of No. 1 would be sand blasted, primed and painted to match the boat color, while No. 1 would be polished enough to remove the corrosion/scale but leave the patina.

Brad
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I am either going to use 1 or have my stepdad, who is an excellent decoy carver who was diagnosed with Parkinson's about 5 years ago, carve one these.

The gentleman that carved this was kind enough to send the drawing pattern for a canvasback handle. My hopes are to have my stepdad carve it and to have a bronze done of it.

I see some light at the end of the tunnel!

After giving a light sand to the epoxy coated interior, I laid down a coat of Lock, Stock & Barrell's Flat Marine Enamel in MLB Gray. The color is off a little in the pictures, its greenish gray and it matches the color the float was first painted quite well.







Now I just need this weather to get out of here so I can make it up to the mountains to pick my lumber for the deck, coaming and rub rail.

Brad
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Lavman said:
WOW! What a great thread, I am very impressed with your work and this scull. Thanks for sharing :beer:
Thanks Lavman! :thumbsup:

Well finally got the cypress for the decking last weekend, however, lots going on with some honey-dos and our DU banquet. On a side note did win a Kimber Stainless .45 which was the DU pistol of the year!

Anyway, started putting the decking on this morning. Didn't take to long. Dry fit everything and cut it all strong. Came back in and glued it all up. Will come back with the router and a flush cut bit to take off the excess.





Came back in this evening and began the fairing. Not too much to do, mostly filling screw head recesses.



Going to sand and saturate the cypress with epoxy tomorrow. From there, I'm going to do a 1/4" round over to the edge of the decking. This will let me let the Dynel lay over the edges to create the faux canvas deck. Once the rub rail goes on, it will will seem as if it is holding the "canvas" on. After that I will cut the temporary cross braces from the cockpit and install the coaming. There will be a piece of quarter round that goes around the coaming where it meets the deck to appear like the canvas is being held down by it.

Can definitely see light at the end of the tunnel. Amazing how far she's come along from the state it was in. A member off of Duckboats.net was kind enough to offer me one of his custom built ash sculling oars for the cost of shipping. Its steam bent and very nice work and amazingly enough, the paint color is almost identical to that I am painting the boat in. I will most likely order a Shaw & Tenney as well, although, it may take a little bit for me to save up for it!

My step dad has been working on the canvasback sleeper handle and cut some new oar lock socket blocks out of some really nice white cedar. Everything is shaping up nicely. Should be moving over into my new shop within the next 3 weeks!

Brad
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Going to finally get to cut the temporary cross braces from the cockpit today! Laid down the Dynel the other evening. Very easy to work with, drapes well and doesn't unravel at the edges. I was amazed how much it it looks like painted canvas once it was done. I'll install the coaming next. In order to make this look more like a canvas covered top, I rolled it over the edge and it will look tucked behind the soon to be installed rub rail. At the edge of coaming will be a piece of 1/4 round that will look as it is there to hold the canvas down as well.







Brad
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
She should see water within a month, give or take! Coaming installation when fairly smooth. Will take the clamps off this evening and install the original piece that went at the front of the cockpit and start working on the rub rails.









Brad
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Sorry for such a delay in the update! We're doing some house renovations which includes turning our current garage into a bedroom, my old shop into a garage and building a new shop. Really took my time planning, building and organizing the new shop as I moved things over so I hadn't touched the scull in several weeks.

When I built my first boat over a decade ago, it was in a 10x20 rental storage unit with an outlet adapter screwed into the light socket. For two years after that I built in a coworkers converted barn. Afterwards we moved into a new house where I used the detached garage. Much has changed in the number of tools I own, how I lay things out, etc. during that time. So with that being said, a couple of pictures of the new shop layout before I post up on the scull!



Had way too many open spaces and shelves in the old shop, in wooden boat building, lots of places to collect dust. Built this closet in the back corner to store small items, supplies and paints.




Inside.


















Plywood storage is now under the center work/jig table.


Now for a scull update!
This little piece is original with exception of the front block that ties the two sides of the coaming together (it had rotted away).


Only another coat of epoxy and the glassing of the interior of the cockpit will be done.


One of the rub rails installed. Had to order some more bronze flat head screws. I put the rear on and have formed the starboard side and dry fit it, but have to wait on the screws to finish up.




So in cleaning out the old shop I realized my dad had given me some 12 or so inch wide white cedar boards which will be perfect for replacing the removable bottom boards that had at some time been made of plywood. However, after planing, I really don't think I can bring myself to paint these. The grain is phenomenal! I think I will just coat with epoxy, maybe stain first. Realistically, it really won't matter as I will be laying on them and they won't be seen from the outside of the boat.



Brad
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Thanks Lavman!

So I'm pretty much in the short rows now. The rub rails are on the sides and rear. I'm going to go in this evening and remove the screws do a light sand to smooth up the counter bores and coat the rails with epoxy.







The interior of the coaming has its final coat of epoxy and has been sanded. I need to install the catches for the seat which will be a copy of the original but has yet to be made.


The exterior of the coaming has been glassed and has a second coat of epoxy. I will finish up what I hope to be the last coat this evening.


I'm going to use a piece of ash 1/4 round that will be steam bent to go around the cockpit. Best I can tell from pictures there was something like this that was used to fasten the canvas down to the deck.

I still need to attach the oar lock blocks, and drill the holes for all hardware before painting as well as make the removable transom motor mount. I'm going to get one of the little Suzuki 2.5 hp 4 stroke motors and paint it to match. Weight on the motor comes in at a pretty amazing 29 lbs. I'm ordering a Jim Whitney oar from Shaw & Tenney, which is the original oar style that was used with this boat.

Speaking of the oar, I wasn't happy with the plastic collar & neoprene boot. So after giving it a little thought. I used canvas to make a boot that is sized on one end to slide over the brass fitting for the oar hole. The hole through the transom is slightly oversized and will work perfectly once the canvas boot is glued to the fitting. I used waxed canvas dressing to coat the canvas, hit it with the heat gun so that it was saturated, let it dry and will hit again with the dressing. Should be plenty waterproof and look more authentic as well as easy enough to replace should the need ever arise..







I also finished up the floor boards. I need to coat them with epoxy and paint but otherwise they are done.


So all in all, the end is quite near. Can't wait for the maiden voyage and ensuing cursing of learning to scull!

Brad
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Lavman said:
Such a cool project, thanks for the update! What color are you going to paint it? :beer:
Thank you layman and ranger. As for the color, its a grayish green (the color of the inside). That was as close as I can get to the first color that was buried under all the layers of paint. Although I imagine it originally was naturally finished. However with the restoration parts and what had to be repaired that wouldn't have been an option.

Here's the latest.

To simulate canvas being tacked down around the cockpit opening I used a piece of ash formed to a quarter round. The front was easy enough. The screw holes were filled with thickened epoxy and I will tack some copper nails through the quarter round to finish off the faux finish once the float is painted.


The back piece needed to be bent so I rigged up a quick and easy steamer box out of 10' section of 3" PVC with a cap on one end and a clean out plug on the other and 3" deck screws inserted into the side to elevate the work piece. Was my first attempt at steaming wood to bend it and it worked like a charm. Note to self, I ended up having to support the PVC in the middle as it began to sag during the steaming process.


After about an hour of steaming, it bent like a soft piece of plastic!


After a little over 24 hours of being clamped in place I pulled the curved section, completed the round over and installed the rest of the quarter round around the cockpit.


I ripped down a section of the quarter round and piece milled it in over the coaming butt joint backer so that the quarter round sticks out an equal distance around the entire cockpit.


Finally I coated the floor boards with epoxy the other day. They still need to be sanded but put them in place and laid some weights on the center board so that it will begin to take on the natural curve of the floor. You can also see the original chocks for the seat bases have been installed.


Next up will be the oar locks and probably fitting of some hardware. Probably going to weight until my motor gets here to make the removable transom mount.

Brad
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
The end is definitely getting closer. I flipped the other day and along with a little help from Toller Boatworks Jr. we gave it a good scrub down in preparation for paint!


As payment for his services we took a little time out for some Red Ryder action. He can slap tear a monster cup at at 10 yards! Haha!


After letting it dry for a day, I painted the bottom. As I said on the Toller FB page, the thought of the moment of reinstalling the heavy bronze half round on the keel had occupied my thoughts many times since removing it back in Dec.


Spent about 3 hours working last night and don't have many more hours left until she sees water.


Flipped her back upright and set off to work. Here's the seat set in place. I need to round over the edges and coat with epoxy/paint but its for the most part done.


I painted the interior of the coaming and while you can't see them I also drilled the holes for the pad eyes that hold the rope that goes around the interior of the cockpit that was on the original. The coaming is only a 1/2" thick and the shortest #8 SB screws I could get were 3/4. So I'll need to snip the back off and grind them flush so I didn't want to go ahead and paint the rest of the top.


The hardware is just set in place on the deck, there will be 4 larger pad eyes for lifting to the garage ceiling if I decide not to leave it on the trailer. and a cleat centered towards the bow.


Lastly, all the transom hardware is on, however the bronze bung thru hill is only set in place. I need to glue the canvas boot to it before mounting it with a little silicone under it.


Brad
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Well, minus a few small the things the hull is done. I'm going to leave the original cover as is. It has been glassed with poly resin at some point but it still has great adhesion and would be a pain to remove. Plus the cover boards are warped all up. I'll work on it before too long, but the reality is, it isn't a necessity as this float will be stored indoors. I need to attach the the pad eyes on the decks. I've drilled the pilot holes but picked up the wrong size screws. I need to install the drop down hasp that the cover attaches to and the wood ring I made to go around the bung hole. Also, I need to pick up a longer section of sisal rope, as I guessed at the length and am about 2' short. Lastly, I'll work on the removable transom. But to look at, she is done!











Brad
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Lavman said:
WOW! You must be about giddy to put this thing in the water, what a project! Came out awesome, GREAT JOB!!! :beer: :beer:
Thanks Lavman! I most definitely am on both counts. Will probably float it next weekend.

Brad
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Put her on the trailer yesterday!


Finished up the motor mount, made a neoprene gasket for under the mount so it doesn't rub up the decking. Forgot about how far the transom stem protruded so the first hole in the center would not have allowed the nut to go on. Should be plenty sufficient to handle the 29 lb Suzuki 2.5 hp outboard.


https://scontent-atl1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/11350595_1108102905870045_1988618844216667231_n.jpg?oh=e12cc50d9d51924ed47942def6b41b90&oe=55FE5B68/img]

[img]https://scontent-atl1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/22184_1108103185870017_11880125336828901_n.jpg?oh=f33a75e92f7f8012f84987dd74e0058a&oe=55FE8634

Floor boards are painted and in. Also the little front cross piece that was on the original boat is installed. Not sure of is purpose but it seems you could lay your gun barrel on it or walk the boat around in the water by it.




Going to back her in the water tomorrow am! I need to see how its going to float to figure how much weight is needed in the bow. I'm going devise a little lead sled that will push under the deck to the bow to pull it down when sculling or move back when under way.

Brad
 
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