Advantages of cork duck decoys over regular?

5748 Views 14 Replies 11 Participants Last post by AK Ducks, Sep 6, 2005

Discussion Starter · Aug 18, 2003

Can someone fill me in as to why cork decoys are sought after as the best?

Is it how they ride on the water, detailing? I've seen some that are pretty expensive but I want to ensure it's going to be a "the last" decoys for me to buy.

Thanks guys!

Save

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

timmey9

· #2 · Oct 6, 2003

I have never used cork decoys so i would like to know the difference. I doubt i will start using them because they are just too havey to lug around to where i hunt, but in the future...

So what makes them better? Other than you can shoot tham and the will float.

Save

Blockduck

· #3 · Oct 18, 2003

I have a few old Herter's and hate them because there aren't any keels on them to wrap the line around. I won't spend the money on new ones so I plan to keep my old Flambeaus and Carry-Lites that have worked wonderfully for me over the years.

Save

Discussion Starter · #4 · Oct 26, 2003

I have used (hunted over) decoys made from plastic, wood, urethane, packing foam & cork. After using my first set up of 6 Black Duck Cork Decoys, I have been slowly replacing all of my decoys w/ cork.

There is just something about cork that ducks love. Not sure if its how it floats, moves on the water or what but ducks don't shy from them. Even late season, weary Black Ducks fall right out w/o thinking twice!

They are definately more expensive but IMO, WELL worth it.

Good Luck this season

Save

DUKHTR

· #5 · Oct 31, 2003

I love the corkers! Maybe some of this is 'tradition', but for some reason they are VERY effective, especially on Blacks. I don't always use them because of the weight issue, but when I do I seem to have a good hunt. I have LLBean and Herter.
One thing I learned the hard way - be sure to wash them off if using them in salt water - the breast area will break down over years of use unless you seal them.

Save

quackerkiller

· #6 · Dec 16, 2003

In place of corks if your looking for long lasting decoys try the Herters Burlaps they will last you as long as u wanna hunt

Save

Brett Beinke

· #7 · May 6, 2005

This biggest difference from cork to plastic is the way cork rides the water. Cork just ride really well with little or no decoy "slap" as waves hit the decoys.

Save

the_duckinator

· #8 · May 6, 2005

Another plus side of cork is that they still float after they get hit with a load of steel 2's :thumbsup:

Save

SwampHunter

· #9 · May 13, 2005

...

Save

texan68

· #10 · Jul 19, 2005

In my opinion, it's not worth it.. No keels and heavy. Sorry, but I can't believe ducks like cork better. Even the late season birds come into them......ok ......I'll believe it when I see it. G&H and GHG have much more detail, and are more durable. I can understand making a few as an offseason project, but having an entire spread....I'll have to pass. I have made and used a few cork bluebills in the past, but they still didn't come close to my G&H. Not to mention them cork dekes are freakin EXPENSIVE$$$$$$.

Save

Cobra

· #11 · Aug 21, 2005

Had about 40 'bills that I made before they vanished (stolen) from my garage quite a few years back along with some Mallards. Personal advantages - no 2 looked alike every head position and pose was different, after being balanced and with a proper keel they rode the heavy water better than any synthetic, and the best was that they were my creation - nothing like shooting or catching something on/over something you made, flyfishermen will totally understand. Only disadvantage was that they are heavy (great in heavy water though) and bulky but those 40 usually would out draw 8-10dz synthetics. They also take up less room than the 10 dz synthetics I've lugged around since. Store bought corkers look generic to me and are way overpriced.

Save

texan68

· #12 · Aug 21, 2005

like I said, I made a few bills a few years back....seemed to work just as well as the plastics. If the ducks are in close enough to see different head positions, they're in shooting range.

Save

takeem

· #13 · Aug 24, 2005

Cork, foam, cedar, the closer to the actual density of a duck, the more realistic it will ride in the water. Plastics "bob" because they are so light. It is a trade off for weight to realistic floatation. If there isn't any wave action, the birds won't notice a plastic bobbing in the water. If you have a 2 pound duck, another object of the same proportions and weight will float similiar in the water, hence the heavier decoys
Cedar blocks are used for diver rigs because they are inexpensive and can be mass produced. Their color patterns could be painted by any one and ducks will flock into them. On the same turn they have the approximate density of a real duck. If you have nice looking painted birds, put them on the outside of the rig. Everyone has experiences with anything working as a decoy, from plastic bleach bottles to a hand carved award winning decoys. For diver hunting it is numbers, some color, set-up of the decoys, conceilment of the boat, and most importantly conceilment of the hunter and their face(s).
From personnal experience, I'm a believer in how a decoy rides vs. a nice factory paint job.

See less See more

Save

texan68

· #14 · Aug 24, 2005

we're not newbies takeem

Save

AKducks the 2nd

· #15 · Sep 6, 2005

I hunt divers with foam decoys now but want to get some cork and carve my own every where I look people say that cork it the best hands down (if you don't have to carry it) I also like having ducks come into dekes you made your self.

Save

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month