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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I liked Dumpduck's chainsaw pics so I took some pics of a cork decoy I'm making that will hopefully give you some ideas. First I cut out the plan view on a pine 1X8 bottom board. Glued it to cork, used both black cork and natural life jacket cork because that's all I had. Then cut along the outside of the bottom board with a hand saw to transfer the plan view to the cork.

Cut out the profile with a hand saw. Drew the outline of the wings onto the cork.

Cut out the wings with the hand saw.

Cut out the tail with the hand saw.

Shaped it some more with rasp, file , and sandpaper. Careful with the rasp on the black cork because it's more likely to crumble, I prefer the file for this. Note: I'll wait to do a lot of the shaping of the breast until after the head's attached.

Traced the base of the neck onto the body. Cut a shallow mortise in the body for the neck to sit in. Drilled a 3/8" hole through the body. Then drilled up through this hole into the head (be careful not to drill through the head). Glued dowell into the head.

After the glue dried, put more glue in the mortise, in the hole in the body, under the neck, and on dowell. Pushed head down into body and clamped excess dowell under the body into a vise to hold the head tight until the glue dries.

After it dried, cleaned up excess gorilla glue with a scalpel. Note hole in top of back behind the head: In addition to gluing the cork together, I also pegged it with some dowells.

I'll post more pics as I go along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm using 2" X 8" true dimensions. Most 2" lumber at Lowe's is really 1-1/2" thick. I can PM you with the names of the mills I've gotten mine from. Pricewise I've paid $53 for 40 feet of 2x8 (not kiln dried) and $40 for 24 feet of 2x8 (kiln dried). I haven't gotten into the kiln dried stuff yet, but the non-dried stuff has worked fine.
 

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I would be interested in checking that out. Do you make the heads out of a single piece of 2x8 or do you make it a double thick piece so you more material to carve down?

If you have some extra wood, maybe 1 or 2 heads worth, you would be willing to part with I'll throw you a few dollars. I'd like to try my hand at it before buying a bunch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I use a single piece for the heads. 2" is usually enough for the thickest part of the head, the cheeks. Larger duck heads could go a little thicker, but I just stick with the 2". If you were getting wood just for heads, you could use 2" X 6". I get 2X8 because I also use the wood for bodies. For bodies I glue two pieces to gether for a 4" tall by 8" wide body. I can give you some pine so that you can try it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks dumpduck. I haven't bought cork yet. I've made seven cork decoys, but they've all been with cork that was given to me. I always thought it was a little costly. But after making and burlapping a few foamers, and then making another cork decoy, I think I may just order some cork. The cork is just so simple to work with. I was checkng out cork suppliers online. Check out: http://www.theduckblind.com/corksales.htm
 

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I get all my cork from "The Duck Blind". Willy is a great guy and will help out any way possible. Quality product also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ringneck,
I'm considering ordering some of their cork for a rig of oldsquaw. I was wondering if you prefer the tan or the black cork? I've mainly worked with black cork. I hear that the black cork is lighter and it's cheaper. But I was wondering if the tan cork is much more durable (not that my black ones are hurting) or easier to work with. How heavy are the tan decoys? I just want to spend my money wisely. Thanks. - John
 

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I prefer to work with the tan cork. It is more dense and has alot less voids in it as compared to the black. The decoy comes out alot smoother after sanding ( to me anyway) and you can eliminate the use of a bottom board with the tan cork saving some time. As far as weight ..it does weigh a little more but it is not enough to worry about. My brother has some small scales and weighs all his decoys (trying to get then balanced better) and a full size gadwall he did weighed 1.2 lbs with the keel (tupalo head, 1 inch oak keel). I've gotton some ringnecks tupalo heads, hollowed out body) to 14 oz and around 1.2 lbs. not hollowed without a keel so weight is not a factor. I think it is money well spent (tan cork). If you take your time when laying out your patterns you can get at least 7-8 decoys from a sheet...possible to get 10-11 depending on size(teal, buffleheads, coots,etc.). I know this is a long posts but maybe it will help some.
 

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Whistler try looking up the Maryland Cork Company on the internet. Their prices are cheaper because they are a wholesaler that just sells cork products. I'm like you I haven't bought much cork, I have it mostly given to me, but when I get ready to order some I'm going to get it from these people.
 

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By the way...where did you get the life jacket cork? I haven't seen much of it around these days. I had about 2 dozen given to me from an old Tour boat here in the area, but I'd sure like to get my hands on some more of that stuff.
 
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