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Floating blind build

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15K views 54 replies 17 participants last post by  tmorelli  
#1 ·
We got a new lease this year in West TN. We're in the Obion river bottom, near the Mississippi. It is a mix of timber and buck brush swamp with some levees that hold water nearly year round. We also have an old river run slough.

Access is a bit of a challenge.... Park in a bean field. ATV across the field, through the woods, to the swamp. Then, boat in on high water, wade in on low water.

First year hunting this property, we're making lots of assumptions about how ducks will work and use it. Locating a big permanent blind is a gamble and it is a substantial investment and challenge due to the access and swamp.

We originally intended to stick build a blind as cheaply as possible but the task of setting posts and the wildly variable water levels steered us towards a floating blind. Ultimately, we decided to build it at home in modules so that we could disassemble it, haul it, drag it to/through the swamp and reassemble it.

I'm proud of how it's gone so far and thought I'd share.

The platform is 24x8 and breaks into 4) 4x12 modules. Flotation is 5) 50 gallon drums per module.

This is the first module going together.

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#6 ·
Now to the time consuming details. Dog ramps on a floating blind are a challenge. I decided to cantilever these. The access ladder is also an issue with variable water levels. My thinking here is that anytime its too deep for this, we're stepping directly off the boat anyway.
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#22 ·
tmorelli said:
tenfingergrip said:
Deeeeep pockets!!!!

Now pray for ducks!!
Blue collar.

We've got about $2200 in it. With the members splitting, it isn't a game changer for anyone.

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I looked the pictures over but did not see any straps or cables to hold the barrels in place. Also- I strongly suggest adding a golf ball size piece of dry ice to each barrel and then gorilla glue the bungs in place to seal them. (glue one side first, then when it is dry you can add the CO2 and seal the other) You do not need any more CO2 than that. As the dry ice melts, the CO2 gas will expand inside the barrel and give you about 10psi inside the barrel.

This does two things, it seals the barrel so it will not pull in moisture as the air expands and contracts. The little bit of dry ice will expand just enough to pressurize the inside of the barrel so the sides will not collapse under weight....old trick or ********* in the swamp that have trapping shacks. Tried and true-trust me it works. Get those bungs tight quickly with a bung wrench after adding the dry ice.
 
#23 ·
Indaswamp said:
tmorelli said:
tenfingergrip said:
Deeeeep pockets!!!!

Now pray for ducks!!
Blue collar.

We've got about $2200 in it. With the members splitting, it isn't a game changer for anyone.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
I looked the pictures over but did not see any straps or cables to hold the barrels in place. Also- I strongly suggest adding a golf ball size piece of dry ice to each barrel and then gorilla glue the bungs in place to seal them. (glue one side first, then when it is dry you can add the CO2 and seal the other) You do not need any more CO2 than that. As the dry ice melts, the CO2 gas will expand inside the barrel and give you about 10psi inside the barrel.

This does two things, it seals the barrel so it will not pull in moisture as the air expands and contracts. The little bit of dry ice will expand just enough to pressurize the inside of the barrel so the sides will not collapse under weight....old trick or ********* in the swamp that have trapping shacks. Tried and true-trust me it works. Get those bungs tight quickly with a bung wrench after adding the dry ice.
The barrels are trapped by the framing and also secured with rope which should only serve any purpose during transportation.

That is a great idea on the dry ice. We have thread dope on the bungs now but were looking at adding some silicone around the caps for insurance.

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