Foamer Process - 101
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Great article and advice,...I am going to try and make some super-magnum eider using this process.
Have you tried using the white styrofoam instead of the pink ?
I ask because the white is only $10 per 2'x8' sheet while the pink is almost $15, and the white foam is much lighter.
I wonder though if the white is as workable with rasps and sureform planes,...and will the mastic adhere properly to it ???
Your experience and advice are valued !!
Dana
Have you tried using the white styrofoam instead of the pink ?
I ask because the white is only $10 per 2'x8' sheet while the pink is almost $15, and the white foam is much lighter.
I wonder though if the white is as workable with rasps and sureform planes,...and will the mastic adhere properly to it ???
Your experience and advice are valued !!
Dana
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26 Posts
how much would you say the average homemade burlapped decoy should weigh?
cuz i started one and i think that its wayyy to heavy.
thanks
-duck docter
cuz i started one and i think that its wayyy to heavy.
thanks
-duck docter
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799 Posts
That drake looks very nice !! Great job.
I was talking to a fellow at the NE Sportsmans Show here in Worcester a few weeks ago and he suggested using carpet cement instead of tile mastic, after I said that I was unsure of the water repelancy of the mastic. Well I tried it and I wouldn't suggest that anyone else try it. The stuff went on easily enough but I woud not dry! After 2 weeks waiting for it to dry (I only applied it to the bottom layer of burlap, not the top) I finally finished the rest of the body using the mastic and also skim coated over the carpet cement so I'd have a dry/piantable surface.
He also suggested using the Herter Canvasback heads for Eider as you have done, and I think it looks just fine. Agian good job!
I will post a few pictures of my eiders in a few days,...stay tuned...
MDC
I was talking to a fellow at the NE Sportsmans Show here in Worcester a few weeks ago and he suggested using carpet cement instead of tile mastic, after I said that I was unsure of the water repelancy of the mastic. Well I tried it and I wouldn't suggest that anyone else try it. The stuff went on easily enough but I woud not dry! After 2 weeks waiting for it to dry (I only applied it to the bottom layer of burlap, not the top) I finally finished the rest of the body using the mastic and also skim coated over the carpet cement so I'd have a dry/piantable surface.
He also suggested using the Herter Canvasback heads for Eider as you have done, and I think it looks just fine. Agian good job!
I will post a few pictures of my eiders in a few days,...stay tuned...
MDC
From a guy that knows nothing....lol What is the reason to use a foam dek over a plastic one? I like what you guys have done and they look great but I was wondering. I can see that hunting over something that you have made yourself would be awesome but is that the only reason? Do they act more like real ducks on the water?
Thanks guys....just wondering.
Ryan
Thanks guys....just wondering.
Ryan
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799 Posts
Hi Ryan,
Good question,...from my personal experience there is something special about hunting over decoys that you have made. There are other important reasons also, such as the cost,...the foamers can be made for under $10 apiece, and the ones I will make are super magnums, almost twice lifesize and these cannot be found anywhere (as near as I can tell). You can also add lots of personal touches to your own dekes,..my heads will be removable and they also swivel.
So the cost savings alone make this a hobby worth pursuing. I really enjoy it whether the decoys are wood, foam, or whatever else I can think of. Thank goodness for the sticky posted in this forum, as I has opened my eyes to a lightweight and inexpensive way to make decoys.
After I get the eiders done I might try making some oversize brandt.
MDC
Good question,...from my personal experience there is something special about hunting over decoys that you have made. There are other important reasons also, such as the cost,...the foamers can be made for under $10 apiece, and the ones I will make are super magnums, almost twice lifesize and these cannot be found anywhere (as near as I can tell). You can also add lots of personal touches to your own dekes,..my heads will be removable and they also swivel.
So the cost savings alone make this a hobby worth pursuing. I really enjoy it whether the decoys are wood, foam, or whatever else I can think of. Thank goodness for the sticky posted in this forum, as I has opened my eyes to a lightweight and inexpensive way to make decoys.
After I get the eiders done I might try making some oversize brandt.
MDC
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189 Posts
I have talked to several people and some have said to use tile mastic while others have said to use fiberglass resin. I would like to stay away from the resin b/c it is so expensive and such a pain to work with but if it is strong it may be worth the hassle. Any suggestions?
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799 Posts
I don't know about using fiberglass..as you say it is expensive, it has to be used someplace with good ventilation,...it is very messy,..and it's heavy.
And as I said, I won't know if using the tile mastic is a great idea until I've had a chance to use these new decoys,...and that won't be until the Fall,...so for now I think that I'll just keep making them and hope that they workout.
I can say that the mastic and burlap is VERY easy to work with, and you can genarally sand and recoat, or paint after 24 hours of drying. I'll work on them in the evening, then let them dry overnight and get back at them the following evening after dinner.
I hope that this helps.
MDC
And as I said, I won't know if using the tile mastic is a great idea until I've had a chance to use these new decoys,...and that won't be until the Fall,...so for now I think that I'll just keep making them and hope that they workout.
I can say that the mastic and burlap is VERY easy to work with, and you can genarally sand and recoat, or paint after 24 hours of drying. I'll work on them in the evening, then let them dry overnight and get back at them the following evening after dinner.
I hope that this helps.
MDC
I'll try to hit on a few of the recent questions.........
> as noted, making decoys is fun and self-appreciated more than anything else.........using foam and burlapping is an inexpensive way to make alot of decoys, and decoys that are sized as desired.....if you make a mistake you are not tossing out a block of cork costing $30! Foam is an easy medium to work with and allows for alot of custom shaping, especially for a novice carver. Even though I started with cork, I became a better shaper with foam.
> foam is very bouyant and is not necessary to 'balance' as with wood......the decoys are impervious to real damage from shot and keep on floating......they ride the water realistically (almost as good as cork)
> mastic will hold up for years of use......but you need to realistic in handling.....plastics can bounce around, bang off the gunnels or hull, be piled into decoy bags etc........I certainly do not do such with a burlap, rather slot bags rule in my boat.......they need a little TLC
> masic is not 'waterproof', but I have used my dekes for several seasons and have not seen anything more in wear-n-tear than I expected.....mars and scuffs....no breakdown of the mastic in any way
> you will probably want to repaint after a few seasons depending upon level of use and abuse, but the process is easy and imo, fun.
Look, you will not save alot of money making your own decoys.......you have to want to make your own and you have to enjoy the experience otherwise I am all for buying plastics. Plastics have a place in all of our sheds. We all need a few for those walk-in hunts where weight is an issue and where space may be an issue. We finally have alot of decent decoys available to us and the cost seems to be lower than ever when you consider the quality in today's plastics. There are different poses available (ie, today there are headless feeders and sippers and I have been making each for decades, etc).
For me, waterfowling is not seasonal, it is every day. One way or another I am thinking about, planning ahead, scouting, shaping decoys, designing and making a boat or something waterfowl oriented every day. I am working on a couple of canvasbacks carved from surag pine.....and have a magnum old squaw roughed out yesterday in cedar.......even though I have eight zillion other things to do!
> as noted, making decoys is fun and self-appreciated more than anything else.........using foam and burlapping is an inexpensive way to make alot of decoys, and decoys that are sized as desired.....if you make a mistake you are not tossing out a block of cork costing $30! Foam is an easy medium to work with and allows for alot of custom shaping, especially for a novice carver. Even though I started with cork, I became a better shaper with foam.
> foam is very bouyant and is not necessary to 'balance' as with wood......the decoys are impervious to real damage from shot and keep on floating......they ride the water realistically (almost as good as cork)
> mastic will hold up for years of use......but you need to realistic in handling.....plastics can bounce around, bang off the gunnels or hull, be piled into decoy bags etc........I certainly do not do such with a burlap, rather slot bags rule in my boat.......they need a little TLC
> masic is not 'waterproof', but I have used my dekes for several seasons and have not seen anything more in wear-n-tear than I expected.....mars and scuffs....no breakdown of the mastic in any way
> you will probably want to repaint after a few seasons depending upon level of use and abuse, but the process is easy and imo, fun.
Look, you will not save alot of money making your own decoys.......you have to want to make your own and you have to enjoy the experience otherwise I am all for buying plastics. Plastics have a place in all of our sheds. We all need a few for those walk-in hunts where weight is an issue and where space may be an issue. We finally have alot of decent decoys available to us and the cost seems to be lower than ever when you consider the quality in today's plastics. There are different poses available (ie, today there are headless feeders and sippers and I have been making each for decades, etc).
For me, waterfowling is not seasonal, it is every day. One way or another I am thinking about, planning ahead, scouting, shaping decoys, designing and making a boat or something waterfowl oriented every day. I am working on a couple of canvasbacks carved from surag pine.....and have a magnum old squaw roughed out yesterday in cedar.......even though I have eight zillion other things to do!
I have just resently stumbled upon your directions for making these dekes and currently made only three decoys but are ready for the painting process. I was just wondering what type of paint you may suggest for painting them???? The idea you have came up with is great and I have been having an absolute blast making my own decoys thanks to your posting. I am planning on making a large majority of my dekes mallards so if that helps any with what you think on paint selection it would be much appreciated for your helpful tips.
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I love this freakin site. Thanks fellas, my father and i were talking about makin dekes out of foam this afternoon. :thumbsup:
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I noticed that this post has not been active for some time.... none the less, I have wanted to make my own hand carved deeks for some time now, yet considered making them out of wood. After reading and seeing your work I was convinced to try a foamer, then the wife sent the little man, "Hunter" and I to the garage for a time out (LOL).... this was what we have made so far. I think I
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might slaughter a few more ducks this year over my boys deek, we will see. Thanks for all the info gents.
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62 Posts
This is a great post. I am currently making my own. Though in the south no one carries the thick styrofoam. Although I did find some 4" thick sheets at a local craft store. They were 1x3 @ $20. Anyone no where could find online cheaper maybe. Only getting 3 dekes per sheet.
you may find at a refrigeration repair /rebuild shop. around here its called A-B foam. its a 2 part mix and it is used inside cooler panels. the panels are used for walkin coolers like at meat markets.Might find some old panels that are not useable anymore. Just have to strip the outer skn off.Panels are mostly 4 x 8 ,skin is almoast always aluminim. good luck!!!
Maybe locate a commercial roofing supplier (Flat roofs) and ask about a product called felt faced polyiso..
It's a urethane foam in a sheet form (Mono in a sheet)
comes either felt or foil faced but you can glass right over the felt facing if need be..It can be a bit of a chore to peel the facing off as it tends to take chunks of the foam with it so just carve the deke as normal and you'd be good to go..
We sold a huge amount of it here for boat building, surfboards..etc.
It's a urethane foam in a sheet form (Mono in a sheet)
comes either felt or foil faced but you can glass right over the felt facing if need be..It can be a bit of a chore to peel the facing off as it tends to take chunks of the foam with it so just carve the deke as normal and you'd be good to go..
We sold a huge amount of it here for boat building, surfboards..etc.
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71 Posts
Great thread, very informative. I am getting ready to start a couple deeks myself and I have a couple of questions. How well does the keel hold by just screwing it in the foam, seems to me that it would pull farely easy. I read on one of these threads that someone inserted a small peice of lauan between the foam section before glueing tham together to help support the keel when screwed in, seems like a great idea. But is this extra step needed or does it hold fine without the extra support?
I read about the burlaping and about the restle coats that different people do to there decoys. This might be a trick question but which do yall think is stronger and more durable. From what I have read the burlaping takes a little more time but it just seems to me that it would be a lot stronger, but I am just guessing here.
I read about the burlaping and about the restle coats that different people do to there decoys. This might be a trick question but which do yall think is stronger and more durable. From what I have read the burlaping takes a little more time but it just seems to me that it would be a lot stronger, but I am just guessing here.
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240 Posts
It's been a while since I started mine. I went large scale, cutting 250 blocks and then being overwhelmed by the remaining material cost. I now plan on working on them at a slower pace, a few dz a year.
I would not recommend white foam. It can absorb water, unlike the closed cell pink or blue stuff. I bought my foam at a construction supply warehouse, since no one insulates homes in Miami.
I did a little variation on the technique, gluing 2 4x8 sheets together (gorilla glue and cinderblocks), then using a table saw and band saw to cut the blocks.
A few people have expressed concern over weight. The guy who introduced me to burlapped foamers did not put much weight (a single strap weight) in his blocks, and did not use a keel or tail board. They were VERY light, about on par with water keel plastics. That said, they worked great in calm water, but would likely roll over in open, choppy water. In my pile are a few dozen puddlers that I intend to make ultra-lightweight for walk-in hunts. The divers will have more weight for sure. I'm a little rougher with my dekes, so I may bolt on the keels.
For right now, I'm ordering Herter's heads. At $0.88, it's much easier than carving a bunch of heads (and about the same price). Eventually, as the Herter's heads get damaged, I'll replace with basswood heads.
Also, I've made some variations on the poses. I made a few puddler butts and a few standing decoys. You can also vary the attitude of the decoys with the tail and head.
Best of luck. As for me, I have some rasping to do!
I would not recommend white foam. It can absorb water, unlike the closed cell pink or blue stuff. I bought my foam at a construction supply warehouse, since no one insulates homes in Miami.
I did a little variation on the technique, gluing 2 4x8 sheets together (gorilla glue and cinderblocks), then using a table saw and band saw to cut the blocks.
A few people have expressed concern over weight. The guy who introduced me to burlapped foamers did not put much weight (a single strap weight) in his blocks, and did not use a keel or tail board. They were VERY light, about on par with water keel plastics. That said, they worked great in calm water, but would likely roll over in open, choppy water. In my pile are a few dozen puddlers that I intend to make ultra-lightweight for walk-in hunts. The divers will have more weight for sure. I'm a little rougher with my dekes, so I may bolt on the keels.
For right now, I'm ordering Herter's heads. At $0.88, it's much easier than carving a bunch of heads (and about the same price). Eventually, as the Herter's heads get damaged, I'll replace with basswood heads.
Also, I've made some variations on the poses. I made a few puddler butts and a few standing decoys. You can also vary the attitude of the decoys with the tail and head.
Best of luck. As for me, I have some rasping to do!
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