Thanks Pete!!!!!! I have never used any modern fillers IE: caulk or wallpaper paste or any other kind of soft material, ever. I am looking forward to learning how to use those techniques . Please keep posting everyone! Pete, what material do I need to get for wall paper as well as the needles you use. Thanks so much, B
Got any tips of the trade ?
Wel l since I have been in picture taking mode I thought some people would find these tips and methods useful… I also thought this could be a great way to learn from each other :thumbsup:
Many times we all have seen pictures of mounts where there is no smooth transition between the head/neck/breast junction. People always say that the skin needed to be "taxied" forward. Odds are many people are thinking "what the heck does "taxi-ing" mean.
Here is a bird where you can see a head with a thin neck ending abruptly into a wide breast…
All I did was pull the breast skin forward toward the head to thicken the neck up and to give it a smoother transition for a more pleasing look. This literally takes less than a minute to pull the skin forward and to work the feathers back into place. This is what is ment by "taxi'ing the skin forward". Now you can pull too much forward for the no neck appearance so it is always a judgement call as to how much do you adjust. I did some modification to this hen after the picture but thought you would get the idea.
Another easy fix is the mud or rust stain found on many birds breast and neck areas. On this pintail you can see it has quite a bit of stain…
All I did was applied some Whink's to the stained areas with the feathers being wet. Within a few seconds you will see the stain simply disappear. A second application may be needed if you miss a spot. After the stains are gone I just rinse the skin in water and proceed. There are numerous products that do the same thing so this is just what I use.
I use latex gloves because of certain chemicals so I wanted to share a great brand of them I have used for the past few years. They are super strong and can be taken off and re-used multiple times. I originally bought a box for 14$ from a supplier but have since found that you can buy them for 7$ a box straight from the company. You can hardly by the cheap, rip if you look at them wrong brands for that.
I really want to get other's input on this topic since we are never too old to learn new tricks. Some of us take for granted that we use this or that because it has just been how we learned way back when even though some better method or product has existed. If you have any tip about this or that please post it up.
Many times we all have seen pictures of mounts where there is no smooth transition between the head/neck/breast junction. People always say that the skin needed to be "taxied" forward. Odds are many people are thinking "what the heck does "taxi-ing" mean.
Here is a bird where you can see a head with a thin neck ending abruptly into a wide breast…
All I did was pull the breast skin forward toward the head to thicken the neck up and to give it a smoother transition for a more pleasing look. This literally takes less than a minute to pull the skin forward and to work the feathers back into place. This is what is ment by "taxi'ing the skin forward". Now you can pull too much forward for the no neck appearance so it is always a judgement call as to how much do you adjust. I did some modification to this hen after the picture but thought you would get the idea.
Another easy fix is the mud or rust stain found on many birds breast and neck areas. On this pintail you can see it has quite a bit of stain…
All I did was applied some Whink's to the stained areas with the feathers being wet. Within a few seconds you will see the stain simply disappear. A second application may be needed if you miss a spot. After the stains are gone I just rinse the skin in water and proceed. There are numerous products that do the same thing so this is just what I use.
I use latex gloves because of certain chemicals so I wanted to share a great brand of them I have used for the past few years. They are super strong and can be taken off and re-used multiple times. I originally bought a box for 14$ from a supplier but have since found that you can buy them for 7$ a box straight from the company. You can hardly by the cheap, rip if you look at them wrong brands for that.
I really want to get other's input on this topic since we are never too old to learn new tricks. Some of us take for granted that we use this or that because it has just been how we learned way back when even though some better method or product has existed. If you have any tip about this or that please post it up.
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Such a great forum! no BS, just sharing. Brian, I degrease with Kemsol. 100% and a stiff utility brush on the first scrub and let sit for an hour. rinse completely with warm water. then with the skin still inverted, a warm water bath, usually 2 -3 times letting it soak a half hour or so in each soak. I then invert the skin feather side out and repeat until the water is clear and grease free. The last step is a short soak in water and Downey. This helps remove any residual degreaser and really helps in fluffing the feathers. I then towel dry and into Coleman Fuel. Half hour and hand dry in a tub of corn cob grit and puffed borax. I then blow the corn cob grit from the inside of the skin with my compressor, then use a hair dryer on the feather side. Sew or hot glue any holes, then mist the skin on the inside with Stop Rot, insert the body and bag over night. Here is the Hoodie being roughed in that I posted previously on how I re build the wings. Keep it coming guys!
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I am with ya Brian! my truck has been plugged in for two days, and it's so cold here, my duel batteries need charging to get it to start. glad I am married to an Asian who driver a little rice burner, so I am not completely shop bound. Kent Narrows 1/4 mile from my house is so full of ducks, it is not funny. Cans, Red heads, G&L Scalp, Buffs, Old squaws and the Scoter trio. it is quite a site. stay warm 
if you don't like air brushes, here is how I finish almost all my bills and feet. this method was applied to ducks from fish painting, and IMO is not only very easy, but can be done in far less time than with an air brush. I chose a very easy diver bill for this. a Black Scoter. I only use, and have for some time Ted Weyenburg heads. materials needed are as follows:
Acetone, base coat primer flat, pan pastels, watercolor pencils, powder charcoal, scrubber brushes, hair spray and matte clear in a rattle can.
Acetone, base coat primer flat, pan pastels, watercolor pencils, powder charcoal, scrubber brushes, hair spray and matte clear in a rattle can.
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I then clean the bill with Acetone and prime with ultra cover primer in a base color. the powders and watercolor pencils need to have a bite on the surface to be colored. this will not work on a slick finish
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from there, I base with water color pencils, and apply my pan pastels with the scrubber brush, then seal that down with hair spray. it often takes a few coats to bring up the color you want, all sealed between layers with the hair spray.
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from there, I blend and shade with different color powders to duplicate the natural color transitions on the bill, and seal again with hair spray. this not only locks down the color, from further blending, but is unaffected by the final finish coat of matte clear
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you can then detail your bill, and blend to your liking. I often over brush the whole bill with white or light pink powder to add the natural hue between the colors. both those colored powders tend to fade away when the finished sealer is applied, but add to a more natural and realistic finish. once you are satisfied, I coat with ultra cover matte clear, 2-3 coats. hope this helps anyone who who struggles with airbrushing bills and feet
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here ya go Mike. working on a complete tutorial for a drake Surf, and once I re size the pixs I will post the whole process I use in the new section. thanks so much for that! another great transition for a first class site! quick shot of the under bill completed
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