[MissedAgain]

Guys - the Hybrid boat plans are free.

I'm seeing a lot of posts that ask the same thing - small boat, little cover, what to do? Here is the most cost effective answer:

Send me a PM/IM with your e-mail and I'll send you the plans.

The boats cost between $150 and $200 to build - should be less but fiberglass costs are tied into gas prices.

The boats weigh in the 60-65 pound range.

They are 8 ft long, 44 inches wide, and can be built 12 to 16 inches high/deep.

You'll be hard pressed to beat this boat under 90%-95% of your hunting conditions. If there is any cover at all - even a couple inches of stubble or floating weed mats - the boats will blend in easily. We use burlap and handfuls of grass - or a camo cover to vanish to the birds.

My Uncle's 3-day Jan 2008 hunt results and "his Layout" - scaup, ringers, teal, and pintails - and some snipe - the ringer drake was banded! I'm the goofy looking one with the beard:

There is now a host site for the plans:

Hybrid Boat Plans Link

Mini Long Tail Plans Link

There is no need to have the plans emailed, just click on of the above links and download them.

 

[olddkguide]

It may be an ugly little boat but results are what count. Good job there! :thumbsup:

 

[MissedAgain]

Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder! :rofl:

 

[olddkguide]

I'll drink to that! :drinking:

 

[MissedAgain]

I've sent out over 200 plans so far this year and get about 2 or 3 requests every week.

PM/IM your requests and include your e-mail address.

 

[Ned S]

Your boat looks great. After all these years (79) I finally built one. Mine is 30" wide, 7 1/2 ft long and 15" deep (16 1/2" to the top of the two pop open doors). I'll use it in the local shallow water playas. I can stabilize it with two 6' x 2" x 2" poles held vertical with two pipe straps on each side at the back. I have it covered with fast grass. It works just fine. I made it out of 1" x 2"s and 3/16 Luan plywood. It is very light and these "old bones" can put it on top of the Ford Van easily. I also have two wheels with a axle that drop into slots on the back end of the boat. Also have a cushioned handle in front to pull it to the water rather than drag it. I just lift the rear end and the wheels come right off. You are completely hid and just give the doors a nudge with your left hand and come up out of it to a sit position with the gun pointing. The doors fly open using old screen door springs. This is just a box with a slight 45 degree rake on the front. It is made to be pulled to the hunting spot not paddled or push poled. I will build a couple of pontoons from the same material to sit the boat in for hunting in deep water as a layout boat if needed. I can build these in a day and two days for sealing and painting. I put two coats of Tung Oil varnish on it and then painted it a grey brown with house latex paint. Also I used the expensive construction contact glue to seal it. I put 4" of water in it and it did not leak. Cost about $65. I killed many an imaginary duck out this boat in the driveway this spring. I have a handle on the left side to grab and help me up if needed. So far I haven't needed it during practice sessions. Ned S the young 79 yr old who is on high maintenance.

 

[duckhunter23]

interested in the plans
Email address is [email protected]

 

[kg4yus]

Hey Rich.

-Winston

 

[Lefty26]

I got my plans last week. Got the wood work portion hammered out in about 3 hours. Now just waiting on the fiberglassing supplies to finish up. Very simple easy design to build.

Thanks again for providing these plans Missed Again!!!!

I did have a quick question for you. What are your thoughts on coating the inside with Line X lining instead of fiberglassing the inside? I have a connection with a Line X guy and was thinking of giving that a try.

 

[MissedAgain]

Hey Winston! I hope things are going well.

The Line X is a nice product. Very tough & durable.

Down side is that it weighs more than glass.

I recommend fiberglass tape on all inside and outside seams for strength.

 

[Lefty26]

One of my concerns was if it was heavier than glass. I may try some different things to try come up with a boat that fits my needs best. I see myself building a couple of these. Your plans are a dynamite starting point.

Were you the same guy that had the "weedwhacker mud motor" plans?

 

[MissedAgain]

NO - I'm not mechanically inclined.

 

[Joel]

Im puting one together right now and I cant fig out how much and where to put the stirofoam I went to the coastgard web sight but to me i dont understand it what did you do ?

 

[Joel]

I wonder since your building it for your self if you could just put a X on it and call it a experimental boat if it would conform to the regulations. But are the regulations for people that plain to sale the boat they make ? Im going to put a small outbord motor on mine :biggrin:

 

[Lefty26]

From what I gathered with all the reading I did of the coast guard information you basically need to sink your boat by filling it with water. Based on the data you receive from that experiment you will put in the corresponding amount of floatation.

The instructions are on the coast guard website.

 

[MissedAgain]

A cubic foot of foam has a flotation of about 60 pounds. The boat and your gear weigh X. You weigh YY and need to compensate for about ZZ% of your weight. The boat has minimal flotation in the wood and should be considered neutral.

We have all floated around on pool noodles - the big 3 inch noodles have a flotation of about 20# - they keep us from sinking as we float around.

What the flotation in the boat is supposed to do is keep the boat floating level (upright) and allow a guy to sit there and not drown. Hypothermia is the big enemy - most of you guys hunt cold weather - cold is 50 degrees down here.

I like the idea of 4 cubic feet in a boat - it is about 8 pounds of weight with 2# foam. That's 240 pounds of flotation to keep my 200# body from sinking very far into some potentially very cold water and thus keeping me alive.

Our bodies weigh so much in water and we need to compensate for that and a little bit more for safety. You can probably get away with 3 or 4 cubic feet of foam.

Put the foam upright in the two rear corners and in the bow. That way the boat will stay upright iff'n you sink'n.

 

[Joel]

know I see. Im pushing mine to 10 foot long with a 3/8 in floor just to tuff it up a bit I need room for the dog and I can pull the decoys in the bag behind us :thumbsup: . I have a buddy that builds wood boats so I think he can help me with that 2 ext foot I need to add on I will post some pic's

 

[MissedAgain]

If you are gonna glass it then don't go to 3/8 inch floor - will increase the weight a bit without giving usable strength.

Pick up a sheet of 1/4 inch exterior and then pick up a sheet of 3/8 exterior plywood. Do you think you can punch a hole in either by standing on it? Which one would you rather be loading/unloading from your truck?

Sometimes more isn't always better.

Some guy wanted to use 3/4 inch plywood and I almost fainted - the weight!!!! FYI - he did build it and it is beautiful but awfully heavy - I don't know the poundage. It won't break if he backs a truck up over it. :hammer:

 

[Joel]

Ok I just fig it would make it better I see your point . I was going to try a stich and glue but now I think I will stick to useing screws.

 

[MissedAgain]

Some guys have done sticth & glue with success but they've spent the extra $$ on epoxy. I don't know if it is well spent or not - to each his own.

It is great that you are trying to own the boat - that's what the plans are for.

IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY - Build the cardboard model and see what you think - it will give you a good feel for what you are actually going to be doing - then you can start thinking about modifications.

:thumbsup: